2020 in Review: Sewing Hits and Misses

Hi all – -Even though 2020 has been rough, I do look forward to reviewing my hits and misses each year. So in spite of the fact that I’d like to forget much of this year quickly, here we go!

Some hits……

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The Tamarack Jacket (Grainline). Can I just say, what took me so long? I love wearing this jacket both outside and in. It is my go to ‘topper’ and I hope to make another one soon. This quilted Merchant and Mills fabric was such a fabulous splurge, but worth every penny. It makes this jacket such a pleasure to wear.

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Kantha Cloth Haori (Wiksten) – -Yes, there is a bit of a theme developing here…my new found love of quilted jackets! The colors in this fabric make me smile and the chambray lining is fabulous against the skin. If you haven’t made a Wiksten Haori, reconsider!

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1960s coat (Sew Over It) This was a challenging make but so worth the effort. The boucle wool was a splurge and I lined the coat in silk, a investment I will never regret. I love the classic style of this coat and wear it all the time.

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Denim Scrap Haori: Jackets were my jam this year and this one was as fun to sew as it is to wear.  I added topstitching everywhere just for the heck of it. I had an aha moment while making this. I love, love mixing and matching fabrics so much. As a result of this project, I actually tried a quilting project. More about that later.

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Carolyn Pajamas in Lady McElroy cotton lawn The joy in this make for me was placing the pattern pieces on the lively print in a way that was pleasing.  I love wearing these so much!

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Patchwork Linen Inari (Named Clothing) This project combines two of my big sewing loves….Linen and playing with fabric scraps.

IMG_4339 Isca Shirt Dress in linen: This is my go to dress during all seasons and will be forever. I love the gathers, the raised waist and the cool inset. I made two, but will likely make more!

Fails

I learn something from every project I make so when something doesn’t work, it’s usually easy to talk myself out of a funk.  Famous last words….

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Jasika Blazer – -Whoa…this was a huge fail that haunted me. I even made a mock up, but I still got the pocket placement too low. Unfortunately, I didn’t figure it out until the blazer was finished. The drape of the velvet was funky too, so wrong for this pattern.  It was no one’s fault but my own. Still, ouch. I have fabric for another one, but I think I’ll put this pattern away for a while!

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Farrah Jumpsuit (Sew Over It) Great pattern, but the style is just not me. I just can’t do it. Live and learn. I should stick with classic shapes.

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Freida top (Sew Over It) – Cute pattern, but wrong fabric. Yes, this fabric was on sale but it was not a good purchase. It’s really see-through. It’s already been donated.  I do like this pattern though. Perhaps I should make it again.

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I also made a quilt with scraps too which took me a bit out of my comfort zone, but I thoroughly enjoyed it. I will likely make another soon.

All in all, a pretty successful sewing year. Even though I was sewing alot, I didn’t post as often but when I did, I enjoyed it more. I hope to continue blogging this year, and to post on Instagram too. I try to keep a healthy relationship with Instagram but sometimes I fall prey to the desire to sew what’s trendy rather than what’s right for me. I hope this year I can keep that in check:).

Through this strange, sobering year, sewing has been my refuge. I’m so appreciative of the joy this lovely hobby gives me and of our community of makers. Thanks for reading! IMG_1704.jpeg

First Make of 2020: Another Cocoon Coat

Happy New Year! This is my first make of 2020 and I am happy to say it was a success. It’s always good to start a new year with a project that you love.

I’ve made the Coccon Coat before (see it here), based on a version Sew Over It released as part of Lisa Comfort’s magazine. Now they’ve released it as a PDF pattern, available on their website (I received a free copy as a Pattern Insider). I loved the pattern so much the first time, I had to give it another go!

There are many things to love about this pattern. The cocoon shape of the coat is modern but classic. There are two piece sleeves and two pocket options. I chose the welt pockets, which can be challenging, but with their in-depth instructions made it seem easy.

Pattern Construction and Modifications: The Cocoon Coat is meant to be worn open, but that just isn’t an option that works very well in Oregon. So, I extended the front lapels by an inch and added hidden snaps to secure the opening. It changes the look of the lapel and collar a bit from the intended design, but I still like the look, and it makes it much more wearable for me. My coat is made of a good medium weight wool (Millendstore) and lined with silk from my stash.

Construction of this coat is a breeze. The lines are simple so there aren’t any tricky fit issues to resolve. I think the Cocoon coat would be a good option for someone who has never made a coat before.

2019 was a pretty successful sewing year for me with 39 blog posts:). It seems as though the number of sewing blogs has thinned out a bit in response to the growing presence of Instagram and the option to post quickly and often. I understand that, but I quite like the longer format of a blog post and the chance for a more detailed discussion. So, in 2020, I’ll continue to post here too. Thanks for reading and for keeping me company here.

Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by!

A Kalle Shirtdress Becomes a Coat

This week, I marked the beginning of Fall by completing my first cold-weather sewing project. My new denim walking coat was just the kind of project I needed to cope with ‘post vacation blues’. It’s a topstitching extravaganza, just the therapy I needed. Some sewists find topstitching to be stressful, but for me, the focus required is actually a relief that my brain craves when I’m down. 

My inspiration for this coat was a denim coat, designed by Madewell. I saw Cobie Smulders wear it on the already cancelled show, “Friends from College.” It’s a loose-fitting coat, made of mid-weight denim with a hidden placket and a tie belt. 

Although Colbie wore it as a dress on the show, I saw it as a long coat for Fall. Many of my knit dresses (here and here) are below my knees, so this coat will accomodate that length easily.

Pattern: To make the coat, I modified a tried and true pattern, the Kalle Shirt Dress. This pattern has so many options, I recommend it highly.

I chose this pattern because the fit is great, but loose and classic. To make it coat length, I added six inches to the bodice. To create the back vent, I eliminated the back pleat and added a seam instead, open at the bottom. Otherwise, I left the pattern pretty much as is.

 The orginal pattern has short sleeves, but I purchased the long sleeve extension from the Closet Case website. Instead of the classic french cuffs suggested by them, I eliminated the closure on the cuffs, and just folded them back.

Fabric: I used a medium weight denim from my stash for the with a darker denim for the collar, cuffs and pockets. The Kalle has one pocket, but I drafted three more. I used double topstitching on the pockets to make them pop.

I always love using a tried and true pattern in an unexpected way. As a coat, the Kalle does not disappoint! With this make, I’m officially accepting that Fall is here. It’s time to pull out the knits and wools from my stash and sew cozy

Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by!

First Make of the New Year: Sew Over It Cocoon Coat

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If you read my post on my sewing ‘Misses’ for 2018, you know that I’ve sworn off wearing or buying fabric with beige and brown tones.  Yet, I’m here today with a beige/tan coat, LOL! Well, I had to ignore my new rule, because I had this lovely wool in my stash, and couldn’t pass up the chance to use it!

I found this wool at the Mill End Store here in Portland. Honestly, that store is amazing. They have the best assortment of coat quality wools I have ever seen. If you plan to visit our city (PR Weekend 2019?!), you must make time to shop there. It’s a large store, so plan a good hour to explore.

The pattern: If a coat has a ‘cocoon’ shape, I’m a big fan (here’s the Sapporo coat I made last summer). I love this version from Lisa Comfort of Sew Over It.

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Unfortunately, it isn’t available as a standard PDF pattern, but is offered as part of an issue of Lisa’s magazine, so you have to download the magazine to get the instructions and pattern. It’s easy to do ( the same as downloading a pattern), but it’s a bit unusual.

 

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Pressing is such a huge part of constructing a coat. This wool is really thick, so it was really hard to press, but the texture and yummy feel of the wool made it well worth the effort.  Thankfully, I have a gravity feed steam iron, so the task was made a bit easier. I can’t believe I struggled with the decision to buy one. It’s been such a great addition to my sewing room. This project would have been impossible without it.  If you’re considering purchasing one, I must recommend my Silver Star, but there are lots of other options on Amazon.0ff7fb1a-3683-4b25-9f9f-3ba2da8947dd_1.5f12e5f980943d7780f23b881a3d0b0c

 

The construction of the coat was pretty straightforward. The pattern instructions are adequate, but not overly detailed, but in terms of a good first pattern for a coat, this would be a great place to start.  The cocoon style makes fitting pretty easy. I think I’d call the style oversized (even though it doesn’t really look like that in the pattern photos.) I cut the smallest size and I had plenty of room to spare.

The trickiest part for me, was laying this coat out on my patterned fabric. I did pretty well with the matching of the pattern, but when the coat is closed (It’s meant to be worn open, but honestly in Oregon, that is so impractical), the front diamond looks a little bit off. This is because I overlapped the front to get some closure. I like the overlap and the snaps so much, I’ll live with the pattern being a little off to gain some comfort on blustery days.

All in all, I give a big thumbs up to this pattern! I’m really in love with the shape, and can imagine it in a solid wool, or maybe even in linen.

 

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Is there anything more satisfying than sewing a coat? In our climate, a coat gets alot of use, so I know this one will be reached for again and again. It took about 8 hours to make, but it was time well spent. And yes, I said ‘tans and brown tones’ were a no-no for me, but I feel pretty good in this coat…go figure. Maybe it’s because the tone has a bit of rust in it? Or maybe it’s because there’s a bit of contrast in the pattern that makes it work?

My first make of the new year!! I love this time of year as it’s a chance for a fresh start and a chance to plan the future. It’s so fun to see everyone’s posts on Instagram for the ‘make nine’ challenge. I’m working on my plans and pattern wish list for the year, and hope to share it soon.

Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by!

A Coat in Spring Green

 

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I finished sewing this wool coat a few weeks ago, and wanted to share it, but the weather hasn’t been great for taking photos outside. The fact is, the sky probably won’t be clear for another month or so, and by then, it will be too warm to wear wool (fingers crossed). So today, I gave up and took photos indoors!

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This coat is Butterick 6292, a pattern that caught my eye when I saw the versatile collar!

 

 

I love coats with a military vibe (i.e.Burberry), and the button placement on this design definitely gives it that look.

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The wool is, well…green, a color I don’t usually gravitate towards, but this wool from Mill End Store was too cozy to resist. It has a very soft hand though, so I decided to underline the front of the jacket to give it a bit of body to hold the shape of the front lapels. I think this was a good move, because even underlined, the wool still retains its character, yet holds its shape. I lined the coat with rayon and used very thin shoulder pads to give the shoulders some definition.

Challenges:

  • This wool is thick – so making buttonholes on a double layer of fabric was a absolute night mare. I thought I’d lose my mind. My machine couldn’t seem to manage moving across the thick nubby wool so I put a thin layer of interfacing over each buttonhole before stitchng it. It worked! Then, when the buttonhole was finished, I trimmed the interfacing away.
  • Lining – – Even though I cut it according to the pattern instructions, it was an inch too long. Not sure if others had this problem, but it added a step because I had to trim it.
  • Back pleat – I eliminated this as I thought my soft wool wouldn’t hold a pleat. The coat still has enough room to accomodate a wide stride without it.
  • Button placement was a bit tedious – -there are alot of them 🙂 But I love the look so the end result made the effort worth it!

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I love my new coat, and, well…(don’t hate me)…I hope the weather doesn’t improve too quickly so that I can wear it!!! The pattern is definitely a keeper, one that I should probably make again, but will I? Hmmm, there are so many coat patterns in my stash that I want to try, so I’m not sure this one will make it into the queue again. Although I can imagine a version from twill or tweed….

Have you put your stash of wool away until next winter, or are you a die-hard like me?

Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by!

 

 

About the Jacket my Husband Hates

 

IMG_5308Hi All – – My husband is usually quite generous with compliments when I finish a make. But this coat got a strong, very negative reaction out of him! It caught me so off guard, I had to run to my girlfriends for reassurance. Yes, this coat isn’t the classic style I usually gravitate to, but I can’t always wear or sew the same old thing, am I right? That’s why I was drawn to this coat’s interesting hemline, and of course, that’s the detail, that makes my husband squirm.  IMG_5481It reminds me a bit of this Burberry wrap coat I saw on line.

 

 

3f6f53dc9543ab57b9f395117c3a8a2ef7b45d0cOf course, the challenge of this make was the plaid matching, made even more so by the fact that I have not changed my ways when it comes to buying fabric. I tend to buy on the short side….and that’s really crazy when the fabric is a plaid. When will I learn? Because I was short on fabric, I had some panicky moments as I tried to get the sleeve plaid to match the bodice plaid, but eventually, it worked. And let me tell you, after all that work, there’s no way I’m going to let one man’s opinion keep me from wearing this coat! Ha!

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The pattern is Vogue, 9037, a double breasted style. The lovely wool is from the Mill End Store here in Portland. They have a fabulous wool selection…I feel so lucky to live close to them! The wool is a loose weave so I decided to line it with silk. This makes the coat so yummy to slip into. The pattern is easy to fit and sew. It doesn’t have darts or a complicated collar, and the shape is created by long tucks in the front and back bodice.

The pattern is out of print now…which is a shame if you ask me. This pattern has three easy collar choices and it’s a dramatic style so why not keep it around forever? I’m not sure how they decide when a pattern goes out of print, but some of the decisions completely baffle me. In this case, I’m not sure the envelope illustration did it justice, so maybe folks didn’t buy it? Who knows…

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Okay, so the style isn’t a classic, but it is fun, don’t you think? Maybe the shaped hem and interesting collar make this coat qualify as a…. statement piece?

Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by!

A Moto Jacket, part of a..capsule wardrobe?!?

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When Pattern Review announced their Wardrobe Sudoku Contest, I said, Never!  10 garments in two months that all have to coordinate with each other and shoes and accessories? Too mind-boggling for me. So I told myself I’d play along and use only fabric from my stash.

Well, the phrase, ‘never say never’ now clearly applies to me. I suppose my reluctance to join the fun had to do with the fact that I throw a hissy-fit whenever someone suggests I might sew with a plan (SWAP). I prefer to sew on a whim! But I’ve also secretly envied those who have used their sewing skills to achieve their dream capsule wardrobe too, which is basically what the Sudoku Challenge is all about.

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Here’s my completed Sudoku wardrobe.

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The grid shows ten combinations that work together, but the truth is, there are many, many more. The Mimi G jacket is one of the key pieces because it goes with everything, so it’s an accessory on the grid. I’ve wanted to sew this jacket for a long time. It’s a cool girl thing, you know? And this one is designed by Mimi G, no less! Definitely on my sewing bucket list, but it took this contest to get me to push through.

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I’ll wear it open, closed, over jeans, skirts and dresses. Here it is with other pieces in my Sudoku wardrobe.

The pattern; Simplicity 8174 is cute, but it’s not an easy make, to say the least. It’s a well designed pattern, but very complicated. It has a side zipper, back shoulder insets, epaulets, a waistband with carrier and belt detail, and inset zippered pockets, and it’s lined. There are lots of pattern pieces to manage, but once I got them labeled clearly, things started to work better. Here’s a shot of the back waistband, and the back shoulder panels. Cool details, eh?IMG_5094 2

I used brushed twill from my stash and cut my usual size, comparing my measurements to those on the envelope. It turned out to be perfect! Challenges….Construction took awhile, and required my full concentration. For me, the shoulder panels were the most frustrating part. They’re faced with another piece of fabric which gives them stiffness and makes them look cool when they’re top stitched. But, I found the instructions confusing. Mimi G’s video on U tube saved the day. In fact, I used it constantly through the process. It really helped, although I did find a few challenges even with that. She constantly says, do the same thing to the other side. That works for everything but the front bodice which has a right and left side.  In error, I applied the facings to both sides, but in reality, you have to wait on the left side until later in the process so that you can insert the front angled zipper correctly. So, I had a few stitches to rip out.

I did cheat on the belt carriers on the top epaulets and on the waist band. I could not get my thick fabric to turn, so I just winged it, making carriers without turning them.  My fingers were grateful.

This complex pattern had so many twists and turns, I had to turn off my new binge-watching obsession, Bloodline, so that I could concentrate. It was worth it though. I know this jacket will get worn alot, a key piece in my spring wardrobe.

Check out the contest over on Pattern Review.com for some great inspiration. I just love seeing how everyone puts together a wardrobe, and many are only using their stash like me. One of my favorite wardrobes is Elizabeth’s of Elizabeth Made This, so inspiring! Check out her fabulous makes on her blog.

My wardrobe is done and posted now,(my denim ruffled skirt is one item) and it feels good to have it behind me. Over the next few days, I’ll do some posts on my other makes, including two statement sleeve tops, a safari jacket, an alder shirt dress and a long blue cardigan. I stayed with blues and neutrals, which seems to be all I have in my stash these days!

Will I always sew with a plan? I doubt it….no new leaf being turned over here. How about you? Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by!!

A Sparkle Tweed Coat for Spring

 

img_2982-2I didn’t know I was a fan of sparkle tweed until I saw this Kate Spade coat. njmu7301-black-d7d16d49

In person, this tweed is gorgeous, and when I saw the coat at Saks I became a serious fan. I love how Kate Spade designs clothes that feel vintage yet fresh. And those shoes…!!

img_3014The photo above shows my coat buttoned up all the way like the  Kate Spade version, but I think I like it unbuttoned better.

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I found my sparkle tweed at Mill End Store last fall. It’s a wool blend that’s warm but lightweight enough for Spring, perfect for my Kate Spade knock off. The pattern I used is Butterick 5468, an older fast and easy pattern that could be a good starting point if you’ve never made a coat before. It isn’t in print anymore, but it’s available on Etsy and Ebay. It’s such a basic style, you could probably substitute B6107 or B6385 and get the same look.

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I love the in-seam pockets on the longer versions of this coat.

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I modified the pattern by lengthening the sleeves to full length. The Kate Spade sleeves are 3/4 length which is really cute, but less than practical in blustery Oregon. I also fully lined the coat, even though the pattern doesn’t call for it. I added a double faced tie at the waist too.

It’s an easy pattern, without alot of bells and whistles which is perfect for highlighting a special fabric like mine. As usual, the biggest challenge was the plaid matching. Grrr. I had to cut the sleeves twice to get them right. Fortunately, I had extra fabric, a rarity for me!

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I like the fact that this coat looks manish and boxy without a belt but more feminine and retro with one. Two looks from one pattern, Yay!

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img_2951What do you think, belted and girlish or unbelted and mannish? The Kate Spade version is a little fuller below the waist, I think, and the shorter sleeves have a bit more of a bell shape. Next time??? I think my version is close enough to enjoy, and reasonably priced as well (LOL).

In spite of the fact that it’s cold here, with the threat of snow in the forecast, I am happily transitioning into Spring sewing. I’ve organized my stash of linen and cotton and will be working on those sorts of projects going forward.  Out with the wools, in with the linens!! Have you transitioned into Spring?

Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by!

 

A Cardigan for Early Spring:McCalls 6802

img_1938Yes, I know the title of this post is optimistic. Sure, there are several months of cold weather between me and Spring, but I can dream, can’t I?

This knit fabric is so soft, I knew at first sight I had to make a sweater-y wrap from it. This new cardigan is a perfect seasonal transition piece: it’s as cozy as a coat, but as soft and light as a sweater. I’ve had this knit in my stash for several years (!!). You know how it goes..sometimes you love a fabric so much, you can’t bear to cut into it.I’m glad I finally settled on this cardigan though, becuase I’ve worn it constantly since I finished it.img_1876I am a big fan of any garment that has a hood. They’re so useful when battling the elements of course, but also just to keep the chill off my neck. So the fact that McCall’s 6802 had one was a big selling point for me.

m6802_aThis loose-fitting cardigan could not be easier to make! It isn’t lined and the sleeves are cut as part of the bodice. So easy! I was able to finish it in about 3 hours. I did make one modification though. The pattern is designed to have an unlined hood with the wrong side showing. Although I like both sides of this fabric, I wanted the inside of the hood to provide contrast, so I cut a duplicate  of the hood and the front band pieces to use as a facing.

img_1968Not only does the lining provide contrast, but the facing makes the hood  warmer too. The sizing on this pattern is generous.  I cut a size 8 (the smallest size), but it was still too big, so I had to take in the seams until it fit. Also, the pattern doesn’t call for a front closure and, although I love the oversized look of it when worn open, I’ll likely wear it with a belt to keep it from becoming a parachute in the wind. If that gets tiresome, I’ll probably just add a couple of buttons down the front.

img_1900Because the cardigan is unlined, I finished the seams with my serger.A note about the sleeves: I like rolling them up a bit when I wear them, and I forgot to take photos of them unrolled. So, just so you know, they are loose and about three-quarter length, cut ‘kimono’ style. img_1947My style is pretty casual these days, so I think this cardigan will be a great addition to my wardrobe. I like the weight of this knit. It’s not too heavy, but warm, so it should be great to wear outside when the weather improves just a little. This fabric is a cat hair magnet though! Hmmm, a certain feline is going to have to stay away from me when I wear it. The colors are great though – -Not only do they blend with Dustin’s fur, but the earthy tones have just a pop of warmth that makes me feel cozy when I wear them.

Even though there’s alot of cold weather ahead, I’m feeling the urge to sew with Spring fabrics…crisp cottons and linens, maybe even some silk. But do I have anything planned? Not so much. I seem to be enjoying ‘sewing on a whim’ these days, and working through my stash. When do you transition into Spring sewing? Is now the time, or am I too early?

Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by!

 

 

 

2016: Top Five Hits

1Hi All! It’s almost time to ring in the new year, so I thought I’d take the opportunity to review my top five makes of 2016.

Looking back at my sewing projects always makes me a little nervous, because I can’t bear to face the facts. Sometimes the makes that are the most fun to finish or the most time consuming, are not the ones I love to wear (sigh). They hang in my closet, lonely and ignored. Huh. But without further analysis, here they are….my top five of 2016.

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  1. This little coat:  This topper makes it into the top five because I wore it more than any other make this year! It was so versatile, more than I expected. I wore it constantly. The sewing pattern is great too….Butterick 5927, a new favorite.

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2. The linen and lace dress – – Well, of course I love it. It’s blue, it has statement sleeves and lace trim. This dress made me a fan of clothes with simple lines. I love to wear it.img_8499

3. This coat: OMG, it’s so warm! The stretch wool…the quilted collar…love. To make things even better, when I step into Anthropologie wearing it, the girls that work there swoon, the ultimate compliment. It was supposed to inspire me to rake leaves, but that didn’t happen.

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4. This blouse: Well, because it’s blue. Need I say more?

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5. This poncho: Okay, it had to make the list because wearing it makes me so happy. Yes, fringing it was a nightmare, but the end result made this poncho such a wardrobe stand- out. I have a ‘boho’ moment every time I put it on, something I sorely need.

Honorable mentions:

I was obsessed with denim this year too, so I just have to mention these ‘makes ‘. I didn’t wear them quite as much as I expected though (not sure why?), so I won’t give them ‘top five’ status.

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1. This button up denim skirt: What fun this was to make! The top stitching, the ‘jeans’ buttons up the front…my favorite things.

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2. This denim shirt dress: I love a good shirt dress, and I felt so great when I finished this one! I also learned about snaps. They look great, and you also get to pound them in…If you haven’t tried it, do!

There were a few misses in 2016, but who wants to talk about those? Overall, I had alot of fun at my sewing machine, which is the true test of success for me. I even made my first pair of jeans.

But the best part of 2016 was meeting all of you. I love our community and our conversations. You and your makes are a constant source of inspiration and joy for me. I want to thank you for visiting here and for being a part of my life.

Here’s to an even better 2017! And thanks to Gillian of Crafting a Rainbow for encouraging us to celebrate a fabulous year with our Top Five Makes.

Happy New Year, and thanks for stopping by!