For years, my sewing bucket list has included “Jacket with Bound Buttonholes.” Well, this jacket has triangle shaped bound buttonholes and I’m saying, close enough! Yes, they were a bit fussy to sew, but I’m glad I took the leap to do them on this project. I will admit that the first two were ‘nail biters’ for sure, made possible only by the able hand-holding of my jacket class instructor, the Marvelous Marla! I was so fortunate last week to attend a three-day jacket making class lead by her. She makes everything so easy. If you ever have a chance to attend one of her classes, I highly recommend them.
I’m always attracted to peplum style jackets and shirts (here and here), so when this Simplicity pattern was released last Spring, it was an immediate add to the ‘must-have’ list. The front of the jacket is simple, so I decided it was the perfect opportunity to try a new buttonhole. 
Triangle shaped buttonholes are very much like bound buttonholes. Marla taught me the method that’s in the Palmer Plestch Couture handbook. Also, there’s a good explanation on-line at the Seamworks website, as well as a few U-tube videos on the subject. 
The good news…Creating a triangle bound buttonhole isn’t that hard! The bad news…There is a bit of unavoidable risk when you have to actually cut into your fabric to create the hole:) I recommend that you try out the process using scraps of fabric to start. It is a bit tricky, but very worth it, if you ask me.
I love this fabric, a lovely cotton boucle’ from Bolt Fabric, but it was not ideal for this project. The weave was so loose, it unraveled at a mere glance. However, I knew it would be perfect for this pattern so I was highly motivated to push through the challenge! I used my serger to finish the edges but had to be careful not to cut off any seam allowances as I did so. I also had to be careful not to stretch the fabric as I pressed the jacket seams. The front of the jacket is completely interfaced and I lined the jacket with a simple rayon lining.
The fit of this pattern is a bit tricky as there is a side seam panel, rather than straight side seams.
That being said, the jacket fit great without alot of adjustments. I chose my size based on my measurements and it was really close! I shortened the waist a bit (I’m short waisted) and made a slight shoulder adjustment, but that was it. I had planned to add a mandarin collar, but when I basted it in, I didn’t like the look so left it off.
The construction of the jacket wasn’t hard at all. In fact, if you’re looking for an easy, first jacket pattern to try, this would be a good candidate. The pattern instructions are edited by Threads magazine so they include finishing tips that are quite helpful.
I love my new jacket, but to be honest. I’m not really sure about this color. Melon/orange is a new color for me, but I decided it’s high time I stretched my wings a bit. I’m wearing this jacket with jeans because I couldn’t figure out what other colors would work with it. Ideas?
Next on my sewing ‘to do’ list is a trench and a new Sew Over It Pattern Insider project that I’m anxious to share. Stay tuned.
Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by!
Your jacket is absolutely gorgeous! That color is beautiful and would go nicely with camel or tan colored pants.
Thank-you Carol! I hadn’t thought of camel or tan, but it just might work! I don’t have anything that color in my closet right now, so it might require a bit of sewing, which is never a bad thing:)
The jacket looks great and I love the color. Teal would make a beautiful contrast color.
Thanks! I need to get used to the color. Oh, teal sounds interesting! I think I have a piece of teal linen in my overflowing stash:)
The jacket is very pretty and so is the color. Shades of teal would make a beautiful contrast.
I love the cut of this jacket. Looks very “high end”. Beautiful work.
Oh, ‘high end’! What a nice compliment! Thank-you!!
Well, isn’t this a beaut! It’s a super jacket and I love the colour.
Oh, and if I use a really loosely woven fabric for a jacket I tend to fuse every single piece with very lightweight interfacing and it totally stops unravelling. You can still layer up interfacing for the fron facings etc 🙂
Thanks, Diane! Great suggestion! I fused the fronts but do wish I’d fused the backs too … Next time! 😊
Khaki green? I think it looks great here as you have it too.
Oh,, what a fabulous idea! I have a pair of khaki shorts I can try them with to test the theory..thanks!!
That’s a beautiful jacket- and I love the color! Those triangle bound buttonholes look amazing as well. I think any shade of blue/periwinkle/lavender would be lovely with that shade of orange.
Thank-you!! The buttonholes were fun but a bit nerve racking. Love the periwinkle lavender idea…never crossed my mind but I can see how it makes sense.
Looks beautiful, I have this pattern, but I have been afraid to try. Your version looks lovely and perfect on you. Thanks for the tips on sewing with boucle fabric.
The buttonholes are such a cool touch! (And yes, I am right there with you: they aren’t hard, but the whole “slicing through the front of the jacket” part doesn’t get easier no matter how many times I do it!) And I love it without a collar, so I’d say that worked out too. 🙂
Thanks, Mad’s! I was so glad someone was holding my hand as I made those cuts…I’m such a chicken!
I just bought this pattern and found your review on patternreview.com with the link to your blog. Your work is very nice. I like your couture touch of the triangle buttonholes. I have a question for you. I want to make the peplum version, but with medium weight cotton that has an all over embroidery. It is white on white. Because of the behavior of the embroidery when I washed it to preshrink it, I hesitate to line the jacket. The embroidery drew up during the preshrinking process, but when pressed, it flattened out again. I am afraid that if it had a lining it would be very difficult to iron the embroidery out flat. Being all white it will probably need frequent launderings. Give me your opinion. Do you think the pattern would work if I didn’t line it? I want to use this as a top rather than a jacket.
Thank you.
This sounds like a great project! Yes, I think it could work to keep the bodice of the jacket unlined but you’d probably need to line the peplum or figure out how to finish it off in some way with a facing maybe. The fabric sounds lovely!