A Nano Iro Summer Coat

I told myself when the ‘stay at home’ time began, that I would use it as an opportunity to tackle sewing projects that were either time consuming or that had been on my to-do list for awhile. This project falls into both categories.

This coat is from the Nano Iro sewing book, by far my favorite sewing purchase of 2019! I love japanese sewing patterns, and here, they are conveniently translated. 

This pattern is called, appropriately, the summer coat. It’s unlined and best made in cotton or linen, two fabrics I can’t get enough of. I made it before, here and absolutely love wearing it. 

For this version of the summer coat, I used a really special piece of fabric I purchased in Rome last September at an amazing fabric store, Azienda Tessile Romana. 

If you visit Rome, do not miss this fabric store. The fabrics are gorgeous and when I visited, the staff was so helpful and generous with their time. You will not be disappointed. (Hopefully, we’ll all be free to visit there soon.) 

This fabric is a amazing cotton Jacquard and the texture is perfect for this coat (Black is hard to photograph, and these photos don’t do justice to this fabric!) It has just enough body to support the lapels and to give this loose-fitting coat a bit of structure. I wish I had more of this fabulous fabric!

Construction of the coat was easy. The lapels are cut into the coat, then faced. The trickest part for me was the neck facing. Even though I’d made this pattern before, I must admit, I struggled! The diagrams in the instructions helped, but for some reason, it was counterintuitive for me. I couldn’t make the facing fit to the jacket. Eventually, I realized it was because I was trying to fit the wrong side of the facing to the neck opening. Once I came to terms with that, it fit easily. 

I do love this jacket. In fact, the patterns in this book are all on my to-do list. The photos in this book are inspirational too. The fabrics they chose are enviable – – double gauzes and linens in bright colors.  I’m so glad I ticked this coat off my to-do list as it will be absolutely perfect to wear on cool Spring days.

Next up is a Tamarack Jacket. I hope to show that to you soon. 

Sewing is helping me to get through these strange days. Good health and happiness to you all. Thanks for stopping by! 

A New Gelato Top for the Holiday

Yes, it’s a busy time of year, but I managed to squeeze in a bit of sewing…a Gelato top! This lovely relaxed top might be my holiday attire of choice. I don’t know about you, but on Christmas, I prefer a day of relaxed fun…cooking and eating with friends and family, playing games, sitting on the floor by the fire, maybe even a holiday movie! Given my agenda for the day, relaxed dress isn’t optional, but required. This gelato top in bright poppy and teal will work perfectly.

This pattern is lovely for many reasons, but the detail that caught my eye was the button-up back.

I first saw this top on the blog, Girls in the Garden. Lori’s version was so cute, I had to try to make my own. The cut of the top, is relaxed and loose, but fun and flirty. The Gelato top is designed by Liesl and Company. It comes with two views – – a top like mine or a long shift -style dress.

I quite like both options, don’t you?

I made my version out of a beautiful rayon with lovely drape. Because of the oversized nature of the bodice on this top, you wouldn’t want to make it from a stiff fabric.

Construction: The button back detail looks harder than it is. The tab for the buttons is made by folding the fabric twice and stitching. The toughest part is the buttons and button holes which I made with my machine. Fit was easy because it’s a loose fitting pattern. The neck is finished with bias binding…also quite easy! The top came together in three hours including pattern layout and cutting.

I love my new top and am so glad I squeezed a bit of sewing time into the holiday schedule.

Happy holidays and thanks for stopping by!

A New Look Knit Dress from Neglected Fabric

Do you follow #magamsewalong on Instagram? I find the monthly sew alongs created by @suestoney and @sewinginspain to be so inspirational. This month’s theme is Neglected. The idea is to create a project using somethng you’ve ignored for too long. This fabric has languished in my stash for years. I have no idea where I bought it or why!  Now, finally, the neglected has become a dress.

You can see my friend Mitchell had to participate in this photo shoot. If I want some attention from him, I just put on a pair of black tights, LOL.

Knit dresses are really my wardrobe go-to at this time of year. (see others here and here). You can throw them on them over a pair of cozy leggings and still manage to look polished. 

Speaking of neglected…I’ve been using so many Indie sewing patterns, I’ve neglected the new offerings from the Big 4 pattern companies. A few weeks ago I took the time to peruse their Fall offerings. New Look 6632 caught my eye because of the princess seams and empire waist, details you can’t always find in a knit pattern. Also, it has in-seam front pockets…perfection!

Of course, I couldn’t resist using a bit of contrasting fabric on the side panels. It always feels good to use a remnant I’ve saved from an old project!

Construction of this dress was pretty easy. There isn’t a zipper. Instead, the dress slips over your head. I modified the pattern and finished the neck with a contrasting knit band instead of the suggested bias binding. I cut a size ten based on the pattern envelope measurements, and the pattern fit welll without adjustment. 

Of course, I had to make the optional cowl neck that’s removable…so cozy! I love my new dress made from neglected fabric. Thanks to #magamsewalong for inspiring me!

Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by!

#sewjapaneseinjuly meets #tableclothrefashion

July was a big month for sewing challenges. There were so many on Instagram, I coudn’t keep track of them all. For me, two challenges stood out above the rest: #sewjapaneseinjuly and #scarfrefashion, which also includes tablecloths. Yes, my last post was about a tablecloth refashion, but as you all know, one thing always leads to another for me, and that project was so fun. I guess it isn’t too surprising that I had to do another revashion before July was done.

But first, my #japeneseinjuly make…

IMG_2306 This is the Summer Jacket from the Nano Iro sewing studio book.

 

Nano Iro is a watercolor artist who creates beautiful textiles. Her designs are transferred to cotton and linen, which are perfect for clothing. Not only does she create beautiful textiles but she is an author. On a recent shopping trip to Bolt fabric here in Portland, I discovered that her recent book has been translated to English! Of course, I couldn’t resist….this is the summer jacket from that book.

images

To me, Japanese sewing books are great because the styles are simpler and cleaner which allows the fabric to take center stage. That’s why, for this jacket, I reached deep into my stash for one of my favorite pieces of linen.

 

IMG_2318My linen has the tiniest bit of sheen which makes the denim color really pop.

IMG_2241I love the classic lines and the shawl collar of this summer jacket. The construction is basic but clever…the shawl collar is supported by a back neck facing that keeps the neck from rolling.  The pockets are patched onto the jacket, which gives it a utility jacket feel, so on-trend! It’s unlined so construction is a breeze. If you can set in a sleeve and attach a basic collar, you’re good to go! Use a medium weight fabric for this project with a bit of drape.  IMG_2305This style works with everything in my closet – – I suspect this jacket will be in my suitcase when I go to Italy this September!

On to the  tablecloth refashion…

IMG_2284This is the Basic Blouse, cut from a circular vintage table cloth purchased at an estate sale. I wish you could see from these photos that the cut detailing is embroidered with blue thread – – Love!!

 

Construction of this top was simple..The sleeves are cut into the bodice so there’s nothing much to it. The trick was in the layout….I had to place the cut detailing appropriately. I used the scalloped edge of the tablecloth as the hem and the center of the tablecloth as the yoke of the bodice. The sleeves are highlighted with more cut detailing, and after some tricky maneuvering I managed to get the sleeves to mirror each other. IMG_2287I added a back slit at the neckline and finished it with bias binding.

IMG_2246 2

I love my new outfit…and to think both pieces were inspired by sewing challenges! What challenges are you inspired by?

IMG_2190 Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by!

 

New Pattern: Sew Over It Kitty Dress

IMG_6897

As a Sew Over It Pattern Insider, I had the opportunity to test Sew Over It’s latest pattern, the Kitty Dress. I love a good shirt dress (here and hereand this one is perfect with lots of design details and options that make it unique – a shawl collar, a gathered or paneled skirt, and your choice of sleeves or no sleeves at all.

IMG_6724

It’s the design of the Kitty dress that makes it tick all the boxes for me. It’s so versatile- – two bodice and skirt styles that you can mix and match!  You can choose a princess seam bodice or a two-dart bodice. Both choices can be paired with one of two skirts: either paneled or a gathered option.  Both skirts feature in-seam pockets, and all versions are cinched in at the waist with a waistband, which makes them look great on everyone.

If I had to rate the difficulty of this pattern, I’d say it’s a great option for an intermediate sewer, or for a beginner who wants to learn some new skills. The instructions are detailed and helpful, so it’s easy to dive right in!

IMG_6920

It’s no secret that I love sewing patterns that give you options so that you can play and modify as inspired. At first, since I’m a fan of a bodice with princess seams, I was drawn to option 1, but when I made my fabric choice, I changed to option two. My rayon print is colorful, and I felt the princess seam detail would be lost in the fabric’s design. So, instead, I paired the double-darted bodice option with the gathered skirt.

I love long flow-y dresses in the Spring and Summer, so I made my Kitty dress from a lovely rayon from Joanns’. This rayon has a bit of texture to it, giving it a casual crinkled look that I love. The drape of this rayon is perfect for my mid-length Kitty because it gives the skirt some swish! For added style, I chose the shawl collar, which has a bit of a vintage vibe.

IMG_6716

The double darted bodice was easy to sew – -just two pattern pieces, both shaped nicely by bust darts and waist darts. Because I have a large waist relative to my bust measurement, I made a test version to make sure the fit was accurate, and I’m glad I did.  I quickly realized the darts needed to be widened slightly to compensate for my non-standard waist.

Fitting the gathered skirt was easy. I used my hip measurements to choose the size to cut and it worked great without adjustments. Gathered skirts are so forgiving and so easy to sew!! I love the way this skirt looks and swishes in the mid-calf length. It’s all I was hoping it woud be.

IMG_6912

I love my Kitty dress, so much, version one is in my sewing queue( princess seams and sleeveless), maybe in a cotton lawn or linen for summer. The updated version of the Kitty is available at Sew Over It now.

The weather here in Portland is improving – I hope to take my Kitty outside for a test run soon!

Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by.

.

A Spring Jacket with Triangle Bound Buttonholes

IMG_6299For years, my sewing bucket list has included “Jacket with Bound Buttonholes.” Well, this jacket has triangle shaped bound buttonholes and I’m saying, close enough! Yes, they were a bit fussy to sew, but I’m glad I took the leap to do them on this project. I will admit that the first two were ‘nail biters’ for sure, made possible only by the able hand-holding of my jacket class instructor, the Marvelous Marla! I was so fortunate last week to attend a three-day jacket making class lead by her. She makes everything so easy. If you ever have a chance to attend one of her classes, I highly recommend them.

I’m always attracted to peplum style jackets and shirts (here and here), so when this Simplicity pattern was released last Spring, it was an immediate add to the ‘must-have’ list. The front of the jacket is simple, so I decided it was the perfect opportunity to try a new buttonhole. IMG_6228

Triangle shaped buttonholes are very much like bound buttonholes. Marla taught me the method that’s in the Palmer Plestch Couture handbook.  Also, there’s a good explanation on-line at the Seamworks website, as well as a few U-tube videos on the subject. cfc8da3ec10d207d781d2a9d04676495e052556dThe good news…Creating a triangle bound buttonhole isn’t that hard! The bad news…There is a bit of unavoidable risk when you have to actually cut into your fabric to create the hole:) I recommend that you try out the process using scraps of fabric to start. It is a bit tricky, but very worth it, if you ask me.

IMG_6351I love this fabric, a lovely cotton boucle’ from Bolt Fabric,  but it was not ideal for this project. The weave was so loose, it unraveled at a mere glance. However, I knew it would be perfect for this pattern so I was highly motivated to push through the challenge! I used my serger to finish the edges but had to be careful not to cut off any seam allowances as I did so. I also had to be careful not to stretch the fabric as I pressed the jacket seams. The front of the jacket is completely interfaced and I lined the jacket with a simple rayon lining.

IMG_6292

 

The fit of this pattern is a bit tricky as there is a side seam panel, rather than straight side seams.

simplicity-peplum-jacket-pattern-8604-front-back-view

That being said, the jacket fit great without alot of adjustments.  I chose my size based on my measurements and it was really close! I shortened the waist a bit (I’m short waisted) and made a slight shoulder adjustment, but that was it. I had planned to add a mandarin collar, but when I basted it in, I didn’t like the look so left it off.

IMG_6302

The construction of the jacket wasn’t hard at all. In fact, if you’re looking for an easy, first jacket pattern to try, this would be a good candidate. The pattern instructions are edited by Threads magazine so they include finishing tips that are quite helpful.

I love my new jacket, but to be honest. I’m not really sure about this color. Melon/orange is a new color for me, but I decided it’s high time I stretched my wings a bit. I’m wearing this jacket with jeans because I couldn’t figure out what other colors would work with it. Ideas?

IMG_6338

Next on my sewing ‘to do’ list is a trench and a new Sew Over It Pattern Insider project that I’m anxious to share. Stay tuned.

Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by!

 

 

 

Sew Over It Meredith Wrap Dress

IMG_6124

I was so pleased to be invited to be a Pattern Insider for Sew Over It patterns. I’ve been in love with their designs (especially the awesome Cocoon Coat here) so I’m excited to have the opportunity to show your their new release patterns here.

IMG_6102

 

The Meredith Wrap Dress was love at first sight for me. I do love a good wrap dress and this one did not disappoint. It comes in a short and love version with sleeve length variations.

I made the longer version, probably because the weather has been so cool here lately. As summer heat rolls in though, I might be inclined to shorten this hem a bit.

IMG_6130I’m so impressed with the fit of this dress! There isn’t a gap at the front and the neckline is just right, not too low like some patterns. I cut the size my measurements indicated and it fit perfectly, without any adjustments, always a win if you ask me:). Assembling the dress is pretty straightforward. Unlike some other wrap dresses I’ve tried, this pattern has one long front facing which makes it easy to stitch this dress together quickly. The two front bodices are mirror images of each other (rather than one bodice cut wide and one narrow to make the wrap), so the wrap closure is secure and comfortable to wear. The sleeves set in beautifully.  The tie is attached to the front facings before they’re stitched together.

 

IMG_6085I made my dress out of a soft jersey that I found at Modern Domestic here in Portland (also on-line). It’s the loveliest fabric to wear and sew with – – if only I could wear this dress all the time. It has just the right amount of two way stretch for the Meredith Dress. Really, any stretchy knit will do! I could imagine this in a silky rayon knit, or in a scuba knit too.

IMG_6098

The Meredith gets a big thumbs up from me, and there will likely be more of these in my future. I love my print jersey version, but could see this working well in a solid color. It would make a very elegant little black dress don’t you think?  Hmmm… The Meredith was just released, and it should be up on the Sew Over It website now.

Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by.

Disclaimer: As a Sew Over It Pattern Insider, I receive a free pdf copy of the pattern in return for my review, but the opinion expressed here is mine:)

Sew Bibs with Simplicity 8610

IMG_5150There’s nothing like a community sewing challenge to motivate me to complete a project that’s lingered too long on my to do list. This pinafore pattern has been on my wish list since I made the jumpsuit version last Spring (here). It took the #sewbibs challenge to push me to get it done! (more about the challenge here)

My pattern is Simplicity 8610.

I love the big pockets, topstitched front band, buttoned straps. But if this doesn’t grab you, there are many other pinafore patterns to explore. Here are a few that are on my wish list right now.

The York Pinafore from Helen’s closet

york_pinafore_10

The Dani from Seamwork

sw3093-dani-01-large-1d45fe69fcb7935303658eef9020e3c945df0ae16c0f1ec38a6c182a7fe42449

Simplicity 8641

I chose Simplicity 8610 for the big pockets, front gathers and the cool bodice band detail. Also, I love the size of the straps, a detail that can make or break this design for me. If they’re too narrow, they’re uncomfortable, but these are just right.

IMG_5250

Construction – I cut the size indicated by my measurements and there were no surprises or adjustment’s needed. (Size options are from 6-24).  The construction of the bodice is pretty easy and fast to put together. Although I made my jumpsuit version from a rayon crepe, I decided to make my pinafore from a cotton, and I’m glad I did. I think the cotton gives the pinafore a bit more structure which works well to support the gathered details and the fabulous pockets (a must on a pinafore, don’t you think?).

IMG_5176

One of the nice things about this style is that you can wear it with a long or short-sleeved top under it which makes it a great layering piece. It’s still cold and rainy here, so I chose a long sleeve, but come Spring, I’ll happily wear this with a short sleeve top, or maybe even alone.

IMG_5192I’m such a fan of the pinafore style. I think it’s perfect for casual wear about town, or as a travel wardrobe item that you use as a layering piece. I know there will be other pinafores in my future, and since the challenge is on until April 12…would love to finish another before then:)

There are so many inspiring bibs and pinafores on #sewbibs on Instagram right now. Do you have a favorite bib sewing pattern to recommend?

Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by!

Finding Violet and Vogue 9363

IMG_4895I’ve really enjoyed the #sew happy color challenge on Instagram. It’s inspired so many lovely posts by members of our sewing community! The premise of the challenge (created by @katiekortmanart) has been to explore combining complimentary colors in new ways. For me, it’s been an opportunity to look at the colors I love and to think about ways I can have more of them in my wardrobe and life.

This last week of #sewhappycolor features violet and blue. Blue…well, you all know how much I love that color (LOL). My wardrobe includes so many blue options, I could wear the color every day if I wanted. I love violet too, but my stash of fabric and wardrobe doesn’t really reflect that at all.

IMG_4849

So I took a trip to the fabric store, intending to buy a beautiful piece of violet fabric. Instead, I ended up with a print. It’s the scale of this one that caught my eye. The areas of solid black provide negative space that really allows the large violet flowers to pop. I really love this print….Hmmm, need/want more like this…

IMG_4980

Vogue 9363 is my pattern, new this Spring. I can’t resist a pattern with a front tie!  (see my other tie makes here, here and here)

Construction: Although the fabric recommendations include rayon and crepe (lots of drape), I chose Japanese cotton because I wanted the top to look more structured. It was such a such a dream to work with. It shapes beautifully and is a joy to press. The pattern is well drafted too. I cut my usual size and have absolutely no complaints about the fit. The curve of the front bodice seam gives it a unique drape, and the sleeves are easy as they are cut as part of the front and back bodice. There’s a zipper in the back and the loose fit is shaped by front and back bodice darts as well as the wide belt. It’s an easy top to fit and wear.

Changes modifications: I made the short sleeve version of the top/tunic. The pattern suggests the sleeves be finished with a machine hem, but since the print has a bit of a vintage vibe to it, I decided to add a rolled cuff to the sleeve with a buttoned sleeve tab. I really like the finished look of the rolled cuff on this generous sleeve.

IMG_4981

This lovely print has reinforced my love for violet. I’m hoping there will be more of this happy color in my future. For more inspiration and information about complimentary colors, check out Katie’s blog…it’s a wealth of information very enthusiastically presented. #Sewhappycolor was such brilliant idea – – Thanks Katie! Have you all enjoyed #sewhappycolor too? Any new revelations?

Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by!

Burda Style Cocoon Dress

I have to admit it…There was very little forethought behind these two new ‘makes’. I made these cocoon dresses on a whim….merely because I thought they would look pretty good with my new Cocoon coat (here)! Shallow…but true. Now that the 2018 RTW fast is over, I’m feeling quite free. I can sew anything I want without a single thought about whether I ‘need’ it to fill a hole in my wardrobe or not.  Frivilous sewing is the life for me!!

I’m such a sucker for a good knit dress in the winter, so if anyone waves a pattern in front of my face that gives me an excuse to make yet another one, I’m all in. And this one has pockets, which makes it perfect!

img_0891

I absolutely love a dress with side seams that wrap around to the front. I’m a big fan of stand up collars too….so Audrey Hepburn!

img_0872

Burda Style patterns have never been on the top of my list because they come in a magazine insert, so they all have to be traced onto pattern paper before they’re cut and sewn, and, well, I hate tracing patterns. I’d much rather buy a paper pattern, thank you very much. But the design of this dress was too good to pass up. So, I put on a binge worthy show just did it. This Burda Style pattern (1/2019/111) was worth the effort.

 

I loved the pattern so much I made two versions – – one from a soft, ‘poppy’ colored sweater knit I bought at the Mill End Store, and one from a textured sweat shirt jersey that I found at Joann’s (on sale!).

img_0905

img_0867

It’s always interesting to see how different a dress/pattern looks with a two different knits. The gray textured jersey is a heavier moderate stretch knit so the dress and collar look more structured in that fabric. The poppy knit is so soft with a bit more stretch so the fit is loose and easy.

The dress went together easily. The collar is cut as part of the bodice so that makes things simple. The shape of the dress is created by the forward placement of the side seams. The hardest detail is the zipper at the back. Fitting is pretty straightforward…you can modify at the side or center back seam. I used a double needle for the sleeve hem and dress hem.

I love the neckline and the cocoon shape of this pattern – obviously, I’ll likely make it again. And the best part? Both dresses work under my new coat:)

img_0949 2

It’s always fun to follow an intense project like a coat with a less involved project, a palate cleanser! To be honest, the tracing of the pattern wasn’t as bad as I expected…really went pretty quickly and I’m getting better at figuring out all of those crazy lines on the magazine insert. So, there will definitely be more Burda Style makes in my future.

I  hope your New Year has had a strong start. I’m excited about all of the sewing happenings this month – – the Pattern Review Sewing Bee started this week. I’m not participating this year, but I love watching the fun. There should be lots of inspiration there. I’m hoping to make something for Sew Japanese In January, and there’s the Day/Night Dress Challenge coming up next month, hosted by Elizabeth Made This! Lots to look forward to…

Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by!