Category: jacket

2020 in Review: Sewing Hits and Misses

Published on by ellegeemakes14 Comments

Hi all – -Even though 2020 has been rough, I do look forward to reviewing my hits and misses each year. So in spite of the fact that I’d like to forget much of this year quickly, here we go!

Some hits……

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The Tamarack Jacket (Grainline). Can I just say, what took me so long? I love wearing this jacket both outside and in. It is my go to ‘topper’ and I hope to make another one soon. This quilted Merchant and Mills fabric was such a fabulous splurge, but worth every penny. It makes this jacket such a pleasure to wear.

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Kantha Cloth Haori (Wiksten) – -Yes, there is a bit of a theme developing here…my new found love of quilted jackets! The colors in this fabric make me smile and the chambray lining is fabulous against the skin. If you haven’t made a Wiksten Haori, reconsider!

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1960s coat (Sew Over It) This was a challenging make but so worth the effort. The boucle wool was a splurge and I lined the coat in silk, a investment I will never regret. I love the classic style of this coat and wear it all the time.

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Denim Scrap Haori: Jackets were my jam this year and this one was as fun to sew as it is to wear.  I added topstitching everywhere just for the heck of it. I had an aha moment while making this. I love, love mixing and matching fabrics so much. As a result of this project, I actually tried a quilting project. More about that later.

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Carolyn Pajamas in Lady McElroy cotton lawn The joy in this make for me was placing the pattern pieces on the lively print in a way that was pleasing.  I love wearing these so much!

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Patchwork Linen Inari (Named Clothing) This project combines two of my big sewing loves….Linen and playing with fabric scraps.

IMG_4339 Isca Shirt Dress in linen: This is my go to dress during all seasons and will be forever. I love the gathers, the raised waist and the cool inset. I made two, but will likely make more!

Fails

I learn something from every project I make so when something doesn’t work, it’s usually easy to talk myself out of a funk.  Famous last words….

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Jasika Blazer – -Whoa…this was a huge fail that haunted me. I even made a mock up, but I still got the pocket placement too low. Unfortunately, I didn’t figure it out until the blazer was finished. The drape of the velvet was funky too, so wrong for this pattern.  It was no one’s fault but my own. Still, ouch. I have fabric for another one, but I think I’ll put this pattern away for a while!

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Farrah Jumpsuit (Sew Over It) Great pattern, but the style is just not me. I just can’t do it. Live and learn. I should stick with classic shapes.

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Freida top (Sew Over It) – Cute pattern, but wrong fabric. Yes, this fabric was on sale but it was not a good purchase. It’s really see-through. It’s already been donated.  I do like this pattern though. Perhaps I should make it again.

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I also made a quilt with scraps too which took me a bit out of my comfort zone, but I thoroughly enjoyed it. I will likely make another soon.

All in all, a pretty successful sewing year. Even though I was sewing alot, I didn’t post as often but when I did, I enjoyed it more. I hope to continue blogging this year, and to post on Instagram too. I try to keep a healthy relationship with Instagram but sometimes I fall prey to the desire to sew what’s trendy rather than what’s right for me. I hope this year I can keep that in check:).

Through this strange, sobering year, sewing has been my refuge. I’m so appreciative of the joy this lovely hobby gives me and of our community of makers. Thanks for reading! IMG_1704.jpeg

July Making Journal: A Wiksten Haori, A Libby Shirt, a Peplum Top

Published on by ellegeemakes8 Comments

Although we’ve all felt the strain of the unknown over the past months, for me, there have been some positive things about the quarantine. I’ve truly appreciated the gift of time. It’s been lovely to slow down and savor making things. As Oregon gradually reopens, I hope I can resist the urge to rush!

Denim Wiksten Haori

When considering what to do with several old pairs of jeans, it’s probably no surprise that I reached for my well-used Wiksten Haori pattern. I do  love creating from scraps.

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 My last two versions are soft now and well worn (hereand here).

For this Haori, I mixed and matched the legs of several pairs of jeans, all from different colors of denim.

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To get enough denim for the front and back bodice, I cut pieces from the legs. I also ripped off pockets and added them to the front and inside of the jacket.

To tie it all together, I used white topstitching thread and double stitched where ever possible. For lining, scraps of soft chambray came in handy.  I hardly noticed the time as I ripped and cut and sewed. It’s a lovely weight, perfect for our cooler summer evenings. This will be one of my entries for #joinupjuly on instagram.

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Libby Shirt

This month, I enjoyed revisiting one of the older Sew Over It patterns, the Libby shirt. This easy button-up top is cropped and loose fitting for a modern look. I made both versions from rayon. Even though it’s easy to sew, the pattern has lovely details. I love the vintage collar and cute cuffs.  Rayon is a great fabric for this one. Since the fit of this top is loose, I cut the smallest size.

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McCalls 7052

My last make is a tried and true top that I’ve made so, so many times. It’s a easy-fitting top with a swing-y peplum, McCalls 7052 (also made here). I love this top because you can throw it on and feel put together, even though the style is relaxed and easy. This is project you can finish in an afternoon – -instant gratification! I’ve used different fabrics for other versions, but love the feel of it in rayon.

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The journal/diary format I’m using here on the blog today is new for me.  It seems to make sense when I’m reviewing makes I’ve sewn before. What do you think?

I hope you’re enjoying your sewing projects as much as I am these days.  Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by!

My Sew Over It London Summer Capsule Wardrobe

Published on by ellegeemakes4 Comments

It’s been awhile since I’ve written. It’s been hard to imagine posting smiling photos of me in new clothes when there’s anger, hurt and death because of the systematic racism that surrounds us (during a global pandemic, no less). I’ve learned that I know very little about the daily experience of being black. So, I want to say that I’m committed to listening and learning. I support #Blacklivesmatter and am looking to the leadership and posts from @blkmakersmatter on IG. As my first action step, I am committing to making my sewing dollars count by buying from only those organizations that support anti-racism, equality and inclusion. 

Creating anything….art, clothes, music, helps us find our best selves. So in that spirit, I share what I’ve been sewing lately….

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This month, Sew Over It London launched a beautiful ebook calledSummer Dreaming.Tech-Drawings-700.pngIt includes a collection of  patterns that comprise a capsule wardrobe for summer. As a Pattern Insider, I had the opportuitiy to try the patterns before release. So today, I offer an overview of the pieces I made from that collection.

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The key piece in my capsule is the Sorrento Jacket. It’s designed with lots of fun seams, pockets and tabs at the waist. Since I’m a big fan of topstitching, I could hardly wait to sink my teeth into this one. And it did not disappoint!  I was a little concerned about the length of the jacket since I’m short-waisted and only 5’ 4”. The sizing of this pattern was spot on for me. I did do a tissue fitting, paying attention to the shoulders and waistline. In the end, I decided to leave all as is and the fit is good!

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The double seams in the front are so retro and cool. It’s well worth the time required to make it. If I had to say, I’d rate the skills required to make the jacket at intermediate level. Collar insertion and cuffs are required which can be a bit challenging, but the instructions are very complete. There’s lots of topstitching on the jacket which takes time, but I personally love sewing projects with alot of detail. I used a light gray thread to make the stitching pop. I chose medium weight denim and I’m glad I didn’t go any heavier. A heavy denim would make it difficult to get the thick seams pressed and topstitched, so I’d stick with a light to medium weight denim.

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Next up is the Ravello dress… a lovely versatile pattern. You can make it as a dress (long or short) or you can crop it as a top. I made it three ways, as a short dress, a cropped wrap top in linen and also another wrap top in Liberty cotton. The dress is a breeze to make, and is perfect for a beginner. It isn’t lined, so beware of picking a sheer fabric. A linen, lightweight cotton or rayon would be my choices for this pattern. It’s a quick make as the kimono style sleeves are cut into the bodice – – you can make this one in an afternoon. I love my top versions too, and want to make a long dress in the future.

Here’s the long wrap top version.

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And here’s the cropped linen version with the skirt of my Siena sun dress.

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The most challenging piece of all in the collection has to be the Siena dress!

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It can be made into a one piece sundress or made as separates ( a camisole style top and skirt). I love to mix and match so I chose the separates version. The dress has a shirred back and since I’d never tried shirring before I had to give this a whirl. It’s a fun process and not to hard to do. The top wasn’t the easiest piece to fit but end result was worth it. I made both pieces from linen. Rayon or cotton would work well too. I absolutely love the skirt. It will be in heavy rotation throughout the summer.

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My last make from the collection was the Alba skirt.

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This skirt is what summer dressing is all about! It’s a simple wrap skirt that you can make with or without a ruffle. I made it without the ruffle and it was such a fast easy make. A flowy fabric like rayon is best for this skirt. I like to wear it with a tee shirt, or with my Ravello top or my Sorrento jacket!

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This collection really would be perfect for travel (when we can safely do that again! ). The patterns are at a variety of sewing levels so there’s something here for everyone. I’ll use the jacket, dress and skirt patterns again and again. Thanks to Sew Over It for giving me the chance to try out these lovely patterns!

Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by.

My First Tamarack Jacket

Published on by ellegeemakes20 Comments

This jacket has been on my sewing to-do list for such a long time. I kept shuffling it to the bottom of the queue as I waited for a block of time to tackle it. Well, as you all know, I’ve got that time now!

The tamarack is quilted, making it perfect for those cooler evenings in spring and fall. For my first Tamarack (yes there will be others), I decided to use Merchant and Mills pre-quilted cotton. It’s such a lovely weight and texture, well worth the price. With this fabric, it isn’t really necessary to line the jacket, but I did anyway. I used an Nano Iro linen ( Bolt Fabric.) that’s so soft. I chose a contrasting lining so that it would would really show when the sleeves are rolled up. I finished the edges with self-made bias binding in linen (Josephine’s fabric). 

Even though I didn’t have to, I wanted the lining to be quilted, so I followed the lines already provided in my outer fabric. This was a fun, stress free way to go, and I highly recommend it!  I love how the extra quilting adds more texture to the bodice of the jacket. 

In order to get the fit I wanted, I shortened the jacket by 1 1/2 inches (I’m 5′ 4”). I love this modified length. The fit of the bodice seemed a little boxy for me so I tapered it a bit at the waist. 

The biggest construction challenge was the welt pockets. The quilted fabric is thick, making it tricky to get everything to lie flat. I decided to practice making a pocket with some thick fabric I had leftover from another project. I’m really glad I did. I felt pretty secure when I had to cut into my lovely quilted fabric. I do like the look of the welt pockets, but will likely use patch pockets next time so that the jacket will be reversible. If I had to do it over, I’d make this one reversible too, as I love the lining almost as much as the outside fabric! 

The other challenge with my thick quilt sandwich was sewing the binding around the edges. I used fabric clips I bought at Joann’s to hold the layers together as I sewed. 

Overall, this was a fun, satisfying project, and I highly recommend it. The construction of the jacket isn’t as challenging as it appears. There isn’t a collar to mess with for one thing. Also, the slow process of quilting the jacket was lovely and calming. In fact, it made me more curious about quilting in general. I may try to do a bit of improvisational quilting with my fabric scraps. What better time to play with new sewing experiences than now!

I hope you all are well and happy. Thanks for stopping by! 

A Wiksten Haori in Kantha Cloth

Published on by ellegeemakes24 Comments

I don’t know about you, but I’m craving a bit of ‘normal’ right now. So let’s just dive into the details of this new make, a Wiksten Haori jacket. 

If you haven’t tried this pattern, you’re missing out on some fun! It’s a chance to use your favorite fabrics in a way that makes them so wearable. This is my third Haori (others posted here and here), and I’m sure there will be more. 

This is an unstructured, loose-fitting jacket with three length variations, short, medium and long. I prefer the short, cropped version on me as I really like the proportions, but I’m in love with some of the longer versions I’ve seen in wool, so I might try one of those too. 

This jacket looks more complicated than it is. If you can sew a straight seam, you can make this jacket. Yes, it is lined but that’s nothing to worry about because creating the lining is simple. You just sew another jacket from your lining material and attach the two at the bottom seam.  The only modification I made to the pattern was to leave the interfacing out of the collar band as my fabric was stiff enough.

The beauty of the Haori is that it really allows the fabric to shine. My fabric is a Kantha cloth. I found a piece at Modern Domestic then found a bit more  at Cool Cottons, here in Portland. It’s amazing fabric with beautiful colors and the layers of cloth are stitched together with a long quilting stitch. It makes me happy just looking at it!  I’m wearing it with the linen shirt I made from a japanese pattern book (posted here.) I think they work well together.

Sewing is such a stress reliever for me. In these challenging times, I’m grateful that I have a pastime that comforts me, and a community to share it with. Hang in there all, and thanks for stopping by! 

A Sierra Jacket in Forest Green

Published on by ellegeemakes10 Comments

Whoa….It’s been awhile since I’ve posted!  My mother-in-law died recently and it’s been a sad, low energy time for me. I drifted into a space where I had very little time or mental space to create. The experience of being away from sewing deepened my appreciation of it though. I’m so happy to be back with a new make, the Sierra Jacket from Closet Case Patterns. 

The design of this unlined jacket has such a cool ‘french’ vibe to me. From what I understand, Heather of Closet Case Patterns was inspired by a old canvas maker’s jacket she owned. The pattern includes two views, a long version that’s cinched at the waist and a shorter, boxier version with buttons down the front. 

Of course, an unlined jacket is the perfect opportunity to practice some nice seam finishings. I flat-felled most of the seams to keep the inside looking neat, then added some bias binding in a contrasting stripe to the front facing. It makes me so happy to look at the inside of this jacket!

The fabric I chose is a medium weight twill in deep forest green. It’s the perfect weight for days when you need a light layer. It’s pretty cold here now, so I’ve been wearing my Sierra like a blazer under my coat, but will use it as outwear in the Spring and Fall. 

Details I love…There’s a cool side tie and an extra pocket inside the front for carrying your cell phone or what ever. You can even put a pocket on the sleeve. I didn’t have enough fabric for that this time around, but will definitely add that next time. I love the two piece sleeves too, and the cinched waist. The shorter version has buttons and sleeve pockets. Trust me…I’ll make that one soon, maybe out of corduroy .

The fit of this jacket is oversized and a bit boxy so be forewarned. I like it that way, but will cut one size smaller next time. Construction steps are well explained as is the usual with this company.


I’m in love with this jacket in part because of the color… forest green. For some reason, it seems hard to find these days! The jacket is so fun to make and wear..I know I’ll make the shorter version soon!

Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by.

Making a Wiksten Haori from a Mid-Century Modern Curtain

Published on by ellegeemakes16 Comments

This Wiksten Haori was once a curtain in someone’s house.

IMG_1847.jpegThe leaf design on this fabric is typical of the mid-century modern style. It was all about the exotic, so tropical themes were big. Vintage drapes can cost as much as $200 per panel on Ebay. One Saturday afternoon, I got lucky.  I found mine at a estate sale for $10.

Estate sales can be such a great place to find vintage fabric and notions. My interest in them grew after I participated in the  #tableclothrefashion challenge on Instagram. I made a couple of tops from vintage tablecloths (here and Here) and had so much fun, I started exploring other vintage fabrics as well. I do love taking something old and making it new. Now, I can’t pass by an estate sale without taking a look.

IMG_1743.jpegThere was only one drapery panel at the sale so I didn’t have alot of this fabric to work with. This drape wasn’t lined, which meant it was ready for my project right away. The trickiest part of the make was figuring out how to best place my pattern pieces to let the leaf design take center stage.

This is the second Wiksten Haori I’ve made (first is here) so this make was pretty easy for me. I do love how the pattern is drafted so that the jacket is reversible.

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IMG_1719.jpegThis is the short verion of the Haori, lined with soft Chambray, the perfect fabric mate for my drapery barkcloth. Although I could reverse my Haori and wear it blue side out, I doubt I will – – I love the barkcloth side too much!

IMG_1820.jpegAs in my other version, this Haori has a lovely feel, in part because the barkcloth is soft but heavy.  That’s one of the reasons I love to wear this one so much. It feels substantial, but not too stiff. In my opinion, a medium weight fabric lined with a sleek lightweight fabric makes the perfect Haori.IMG_1847.jpeg I love the boxy shape of this jacket and the casual feel of the fabric. I know I’ll wear it again and again. Honestly, there’s a reason this is one of the most popular patterns around. It’s so fun to sew and wear. I can’t wait to make another!!  Now, if I could only find more vintage fabric….Sources anyone?

Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by!

A Spring Jacket with Triangle Bound Buttonholes

Published on by ellegeemakes18 Comments

IMG_6299For years, my sewing bucket list has included “Jacket with Bound Buttonholes.” Well, this jacket has triangle shaped bound buttonholes and I’m saying, close enough! Yes, they were a bit fussy to sew, but I’m glad I took the leap to do them on this project. I will admit that the first two were ‘nail biters’ for sure, made possible only by the able hand-holding of my jacket class instructor, the Marvelous Marla! I was so fortunate last week to attend a three-day jacket making class lead by her. She makes everything so easy. If you ever have a chance to attend one of her classes, I highly recommend them.

I’m always attracted to peplum style jackets and shirts (here and here), so when this Simplicity pattern was released last Spring, it was an immediate add to the ‘must-have’ list. The front of the jacket is simple, so I decided it was the perfect opportunity to try a new buttonhole. IMG_6228

Triangle shaped buttonholes are very much like bound buttonholes. Marla taught me the method that’s in the Palmer Plestch Couture handbook.  Also, there’s a good explanation on-line at the Seamworks website, as well as a few U-tube videos on the subject. cfc8da3ec10d207d781d2a9d04676495e052556dThe good news…Creating a triangle bound buttonhole isn’t that hard! The bad news…There is a bit of unavoidable risk when you have to actually cut into your fabric to create the hole:) I recommend that you try out the process using scraps of fabric to start. It is a bit tricky, but very worth it, if you ask me.

IMG_6351I love this fabric, a lovely cotton boucle’ from Bolt Fabric,  but it was not ideal for this project. The weave was so loose, it unraveled at a mere glance. However, I knew it would be perfect for this pattern so I was highly motivated to push through the challenge! I used my serger to finish the edges but had to be careful not to cut off any seam allowances as I did so. I also had to be careful not to stretch the fabric as I pressed the jacket seams. The front of the jacket is completely interfaced and I lined the jacket with a simple rayon lining.

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The fit of this pattern is a bit tricky as there is a side seam panel, rather than straight side seams.

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That being said, the jacket fit great without alot of adjustments.  I chose my size based on my measurements and it was really close! I shortened the waist a bit (I’m short waisted) and made a slight shoulder adjustment, but that was it. I had planned to add a mandarin collar, but when I basted it in, I didn’t like the look so left it off.

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The construction of the jacket wasn’t hard at all. In fact, if you’re looking for an easy, first jacket pattern to try, this would be a good candidate. The pattern instructions are edited by Threads magazine so they include finishing tips that are quite helpful.

I love my new jacket, but to be honest. I’m not really sure about this color. Melon/orange is a new color for me, but I decided it’s high time I stretched my wings a bit. I’m wearing this jacket with jeans because I couldn’t figure out what other colors would work with it. Ideas?

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Next on my sewing ‘to do’ list is a trench and a new Sew Over It Pattern Insider project that I’m anxious to share. Stay tuned.

Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by!

 

 

 

Waiting for Spring in my Wiksten Haori Jacket

Published on by ellegeemakes10 Comments

IMG_4450Well, it’s official. I am now a big fan of the Wiksten Haori jacket.

 

I might be the last blogger to make this lovely jacket. I avoided this pattern at first, as I prefer fitted jackets to loose-fitting styles. But on a recent visit to a local fabric store (Bolt, such a great store!! ), I tried on their sample version of the Haori, and it was love at first wear. Yes, the style is a bit boxy and unstructured, but that’s the beauty of it!

IMG_4613My first version (yes there will be others) was inspired by a change of weather here in Oregon. We had a few ‘teaser’ days last week that felt like Spring, but now, temperatures are cold again and it’s damp. I still need to wear a cozy layer, so my Haori is made from a wool blend, lined with linen. The wool fights the damp fearlessly, while the linen makes it wearable. Because the design is a loose fit, a fabric with some body (like linen, wool, cotton canvas) is a good thing…it really gives the stylish details some support.

 

 

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The design of the Haori jacket is simple in concept. It’s two jackets bound together by a common front facing/lapel; brilliant really and quite easy to sew. I am a fan of this construction method, as the inside of the jacket has such a clean finish, and it makes the jacket reversible too.

IMG_4514Even though my measurements put me at a small, I cut the extra small and still had room to spare. You might want to consider sizing down. This version is the ‘short’ version. I worried a bit about the length as it was described as ‘cropped’, but in reality, on my 5′ 4″ frame, the length is perfectly fine – – it hits just above the hips. You can see the longer version on Instagram (#wikstenhaori).  So many lovely versions to enjoy!

IMG_4487 2Construction is pretty straightforward. The sleeves are inserted before you sew the side seams so you don’t have to set them in…a big win if you ask me! The pockets are patch pockets that are top-stitched…also very simple. It took me about 2 and a half hours to put together.

 

 

 

Choosing fabric – – one thing to remember is that the front facing/lapel is cut from the lining fabric, so you need to choose a lining fabric that compliments the fabric of the body of the jacket. Also, the sleeves are rolled up, so that’s another chance for your lining fabric to be a cool design element. A fabric with some body is key to help the jacket hold its shape. My wool is pretty soft, but my linen has some crispness to it, so the combo worked well. The lapels are interfaced too, which helps give the style some structure.

IMG_4634I love the weight of this jacket. It’s perfect for this time of the year. But I’m already planning a linen version (or two) for warmer weather, maybe a quilted version for Fall. Really, with this style, the options are endless! If everything in my closet was this lovely to wear, life would seem easy indeed.

I’m really enjoying everyone’s #sewhappycolor posts on Instagram – I’m inspired to add more color to my wardrobe this Spring! Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by.

 

 

Two Hvar Jackets are Better than One

Published on by ellegeemakes18 Comments

The Hvar Jacket from Itch to Stitch has been on my to-sew list for awhile because I’m crazy about cute easy-to-wear jackets. Not only are they adorable, but they help bridge the wardrobe no-man’s land between seasons. A light jacket can function as a layer under a heavy coat when the weather is severe, or it can stand alone when the day is fair. Best of all, a good jacket makes me feel stylish and put together! Chic and functional  – – what could be better than that?

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Even though I had the pattern and the fabric, I put off making the Hvar for quite some time. Because the lapel of this jacket is draped, I thought the sewing would be challenging.  I could not have been more wrong. I mean, the Hvar has only four pattern pieces..simple and fast! Itch-to-Stitch-Hvar-Jacket If you never sewn a jacket before, the Hvar would be a great place to start. It’s designed by Itch to Stitch, and if you make one, I’m pretty sure you won’t be able to resist making another. It isn’t lined, but you can get a clean finish inside by serging the seams or using a hong kong finish ( I serged).

My first version was made with a light gauzy cotton. The pattern suggests lightweight fabrics and because of the draped collar, this is a must. The collar is a double layer of fabric so if your fabric is too heavy, it won’t drape.

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The sewing is easy and the fit is forgiving. Shaping is made by long darts in the back and a bit of tapering at the side seams. To give my bodice a bit more of a curve at the waist I did increase the fish-eye darts a bit and took in the side seams as well.

My second version is from velvet.

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Because I’ll be wearing this version in the winter and fall, I wanted to be able to close the jacket. I realized that if I cut the front lapels generously, there would be ample room to pull the jacket closed and add buttons.

IMG_3034The jacket looks a bit more structured this way, and I enjoy this variation alot. It’s cozy and warm. This fabric was a dream to sew and it’s heaven to wear…cotton velvet with just a bit of sheen.

Modifications: I shortened the jacket by a full inch. I also tapered the sides a bit more, and took a larger dart in the back bodice. I slimmed the sleeves too.

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Now that I know how easy and fun the Hvar is to sew and wear, I’m imagining a knit version, a linen version, maybe even one in faux leather. The possible variations are endless. The only down side to this lovely jacket is that the lapels don’t always want to drape perfectly, but fortunately, the jacket looks okay with the lapels flat too. IMG_3073

This pattern is a definite keeper and I highly recommend it if you’re looking for a cute jacket that’s a quick sew!

With the cotton version of the Hvar, I’ve officially started my Spring sewing! I’m checking out Trench coat patterns right now, and am looking at the recent issue of the Burda Style magazine for inspiration. Lots of ideas churning in my head – It’s still cold out but I’m dreaming of fresh colors and light fabrics…Spring sewing!! How about you. Are you ready?

Happy sewing, and thanks for stopping by.