Category: featured

2020 in Review: Sewing Hits and Misses

Published on by ellegeemakes14 Comments

Hi all – -Even though 2020 has been rough, I do look forward to reviewing my hits and misses each year. So in spite of the fact that I’d like to forget much of this year quickly, here we go!

Some hits……

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The Tamarack Jacket (Grainline). Can I just say, what took me so long? I love wearing this jacket both outside and in. It is my go to ‘topper’ and I hope to make another one soon. This quilted Merchant and Mills fabric was such a fabulous splurge, but worth every penny. It makes this jacket such a pleasure to wear.

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Kantha Cloth Haori (Wiksten) – -Yes, there is a bit of a theme developing here…my new found love of quilted jackets! The colors in this fabric make me smile and the chambray lining is fabulous against the skin. If you haven’t made a Wiksten Haori, reconsider!

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1960s coat (Sew Over It) This was a challenging make but so worth the effort. The boucle wool was a splurge and I lined the coat in silk, a investment I will never regret. I love the classic style of this coat and wear it all the time.

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Denim Scrap Haori: Jackets were my jam this year and this one was as fun to sew as it is to wear.  I added topstitching everywhere just for the heck of it. I had an aha moment while making this. I love, love mixing and matching fabrics so much. As a result of this project, I actually tried a quilting project. More about that later.

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Carolyn Pajamas in Lady McElroy cotton lawn The joy in this make for me was placing the pattern pieces on the lively print in a way that was pleasing.  I love wearing these so much!

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Patchwork Linen Inari (Named Clothing) This project combines two of my big sewing loves….Linen and playing with fabric scraps.

IMG_4339 Isca Shirt Dress in linen: This is my go to dress during all seasons and will be forever. I love the gathers, the raised waist and the cool inset. I made two, but will likely make more!

Fails

I learn something from every project I make so when something doesn’t work, it’s usually easy to talk myself out of a funk.  Famous last words….

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Jasika Blazer – -Whoa…this was a huge fail that haunted me. I even made a mock up, but I still got the pocket placement too low. Unfortunately, I didn’t figure it out until the blazer was finished. The drape of the velvet was funky too, so wrong for this pattern.  It was no one’s fault but my own. Still, ouch. I have fabric for another one, but I think I’ll put this pattern away for a while!

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Farrah Jumpsuit (Sew Over It) Great pattern, but the style is just not me. I just can’t do it. Live and learn. I should stick with classic shapes.

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Freida top (Sew Over It) – Cute pattern, but wrong fabric. Yes, this fabric was on sale but it was not a good purchase. It’s really see-through. It’s already been donated.  I do like this pattern though. Perhaps I should make it again.

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I also made a quilt with scraps too which took me a bit out of my comfort zone, but I thoroughly enjoyed it. I will likely make another soon.

All in all, a pretty successful sewing year. Even though I was sewing alot, I didn’t post as often but when I did, I enjoyed it more. I hope to continue blogging this year, and to post on Instagram too. I try to keep a healthy relationship with Instagram but sometimes I fall prey to the desire to sew what’s trendy rather than what’s right for me. I hope this year I can keep that in check:).

Through this strange, sobering year, sewing has been my refuge. I’m so appreciative of the joy this lovely hobby gives me and of our community of makers. Thanks for reading! IMG_1704.jpeg

Fall Sewing: Carolyn Pajamas, the 1960’s coat, and the Stacker Jacket

Published on by ellegeemakes2 Comments

lindas collage copyHi All – With temperatures dropping, I’ve been inspired to sew ‘cozy’ clothes this Fall.  During November, I made a wool coat, a corduroy jacket and a pair of pajamas, and all are in heavy use. The truth is, my wardrobe needs have shifted during the pandemic. My daily uniform is a pair of jeans and a top, perfect for my usual outing, a walk in my neighborhood. Since there aren’t any social events to dress up for, I’ve enjoyed having a new coat or jacket to wear on my walks. Honestly, can you ever have too many?

The Sew Over It 1960’s Coat.

This coat pattern is a real winner from Sew Over It. The style is so classic.

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As a pattern insider, I received a free pattern before the general release and I was so excited to make it! From the photos, I expected the coat to be hard to sew, but it really wasn’t.

I cut my usual size based on my measurements and did a toile from a old sheet just to be sure. The bodice has some tapering, but the fit is relatively loose so I found fitting it to be easy.

IMG_4913 I splurged on fabric, a red boiled wool from the Mill End Store, here in Portland. I lined with red silk. I’m so glad I did because this coat is in heavy rotation in my wardrobe and it’s so lovely to slip your arms into silk. If you can sew a collar, set in sleeves and insert a lining, you will be good to go on this pattern. My only tip is not to use too heavy a wool as the lapels and collar might be hard to turn.

Stacker Jacket.

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The Stacker Jacket is from one of my favorite pattern companies, Papercut patterns. Not only is their packaging superb, their designs are so fresh. This jacket is no exception. It’s a ‘utility’  jacket, with a yoke for some interest, and great pockets. Honestly, I just can’t leave the house in anything without pockets!

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I used a lovely rust cordoroy for this jacket and plaid flannel for the liningm both from my stash. It’s such a cozy combination.  The buttons are vintage, found at an estate sale here in town.

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Altough this jacket is lined, it was a easy sew. The fit is loose so there isn’t anything tricky there. You can easily complete this project in a weekend!

Carolyn Pajamas

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My Minerva Make for Minerva Crafts.com this fall is a pair of Carolyn Pajamas, from Closet Core Patterns. Honestly, these pajamas are such a mood brightener!  I spend so much time in pajamas now, as I allow myself the luxury of lounging a bit more during the pandemic. This lovely Lady McElroy cotton lawn was given to me by Minerva Crafts, and you can find my post about this pattern on their blog (here)This pattern is so fun, and I will make it again and again.

IMG_5219Even though social events are discouraged in Oregon right now, I hope to sew something festive for the holidays in December. After all, even a Zoom cocktail party is worthy of a bit of dress up, don’t you think?

Happy sewing, stay healthy and thanks for stopping by.

Summer Making Journal 2: a Patchwork top, Inari hacks and Free Range Slacks

Published on by ellegeemakes6 Comments

IMG_1094Hi all! July was a busy month in the sewing room. Recently, I cleaned my closet and donated several ragged tops (made so long ago!). I’ve been on a mission to replace them, while honoring a pledge I made to myself to use up my remnants. That pledge led me here…to my first pieced top.

IMG_1116I have never been able to throw away even the smallest scrap of linen. It’s too wonderful to toss! So, when the #JoinupJuly challenge started on Instagram, I was challenged to join up some of my linen scraps into a top.

The process of making a patchwork top isn’t difficult at all. Basically, with a quarter inch seam, you piece blocks and bits of fabric together, varying the colors. Then, when your pieced creation is large enough, you lay your pattern pieces on it and cut! My top is made using the Inari pattern from Named clothing(also made here). The lines are simple so it showcases piece work nicely.  It was so fun to figure out how to combine the linens into a pleasing pattern.

IMG_1185Here, I’m wearing my new pieced Inari with my first ever Free Range Slacks,a lovely pattern from Sew House Seven. I’ve been wanting to make these pants for ages. I used linen from my stash for this version.  I love the boxy shape of the pants, the cool seams and the deep pockets. But I found the fit to be more generous than I expected. Because the pants are high waisted and I’m short waisted, the fit of the rise was challenging. I’m pleased with the result, but my advice is to remember the loose fit when you’re choosing the size to cut. A toile would be a good idea too!

IMG_1153As you can see, the fit isn’t perfect yet. There are creases in the crouch. I’ll adjust the rise a bit more next time.

IMG_1339Here’s another Inari, this one with sleeves. I made this from rayon scraps left over from my Sew Over It Wrap skirt (see it here).I do love this rayon! It’s from art Gallery and it is so sumptious to wear. It flows so nicely too! This pattern, the Inari, is a keeper too, simple but stylish and so easy to modify to make it your own! The shorts I’m wearing are Simplicity 8841. This is a easy pattern with great fit! It has a elastic waist so you can make it quickly.IMG_1238I’m wearing my Inari here with the paper bag Burda shorts I made last summer (Here)…Love these! The linen just gets better with time. I wear them constantly!

My last Inari was also made from linen scraps, left overs from this summer dress.IMG_1274Again I used the Inari. Because I had oddly shaped pieces of fabric, I had only enough for a cropped version of the front and back bodice. So, I added a short peplum also pieced from scraps. Luckily the gathering of the peplum hides the many seams:). The sleeve bands are cut from a contrast linen.

That’s it for me for now. I’m in the process of cleaning and reorganizing my sewing room using Ikea modular shelves. And even though I recently reorganized my stash, I’m revisiting the scheme. Isn’t that the way it is with this hobby? It seems like there’s always a better way to organize your fabric, notions and patterns.

Stay safe and healthy. Happy sewing! Thanks for stopping by.

 

July Making Journal: A Wiksten Haori, A Libby Shirt, a Peplum Top

Published on by ellegeemakes8 Comments

Although we’ve all felt the strain of the unknown over the past months, for me, there have been some positive things about the quarantine. I’ve truly appreciated the gift of time. It’s been lovely to slow down and savor making things. As Oregon gradually reopens, I hope I can resist the urge to rush!

Denim Wiksten Haori

When considering what to do with several old pairs of jeans, it’s probably no surprise that I reached for my well-used Wiksten Haori pattern. I do  love creating from scraps.

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 My last two versions are soft now and well worn (hereand here).

For this Haori, I mixed and matched the legs of several pairs of jeans, all from different colors of denim.

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To get enough denim for the front and back bodice, I cut pieces from the legs. I also ripped off pockets and added them to the front and inside of the jacket.

To tie it all together, I used white topstitching thread and double stitched where ever possible. For lining, scraps of soft chambray came in handy.  I hardly noticed the time as I ripped and cut and sewed. It’s a lovely weight, perfect for our cooler summer evenings. This will be one of my entries for #joinupjuly on instagram.

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Libby Shirt

This month, I enjoyed revisiting one of the older Sew Over It patterns, the Libby shirt. This easy button-up top is cropped and loose fitting for a modern look. I made both versions from rayon. Even though it’s easy to sew, the pattern has lovely details. I love the vintage collar and cute cuffs.  Rayon is a great fabric for this one. Since the fit of this top is loose, I cut the smallest size.

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McCalls 7052

My last make is a tried and true top that I’ve made so, so many times. It’s a easy-fitting top with a swing-y peplum, McCalls 7052 (also made here). I love this top because you can throw it on and feel put together, even though the style is relaxed and easy. This is project you can finish in an afternoon – -instant gratification! I’ve used different fabrics for other versions, but love the feel of it in rayon.

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The journal/diary format I’m using here on the blog today is new for me.  It seems to make sense when I’m reviewing makes I’ve sewn before. What do you think?

I hope you’re enjoying your sewing projects as much as I am these days.  Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by!

My Sew Over It London Summer Capsule Wardrobe

Published on by ellegeemakes4 Comments

It’s been awhile since I’ve written. It’s been hard to imagine posting smiling photos of me in new clothes when there’s anger, hurt and death because of the systematic racism that surrounds us (during a global pandemic, no less). I’ve learned that I know very little about the daily experience of being black. So, I want to say that I’m committed to listening and learning. I support #Blacklivesmatter and am looking to the leadership and posts from @blkmakersmatter on IG. As my first action step, I am committing to making my sewing dollars count by buying from only those organizations that support anti-racism, equality and inclusion. 

Creating anything….art, clothes, music, helps us find our best selves. So in that spirit, I share what I’ve been sewing lately….

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This month, Sew Over It London launched a beautiful ebook calledSummer Dreaming.Tech-Drawings-700.pngIt includes a collection of  patterns that comprise a capsule wardrobe for summer. As a Pattern Insider, I had the opportuitiy to try the patterns before release. So today, I offer an overview of the pieces I made from that collection.

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The key piece in my capsule is the Sorrento Jacket. It’s designed with lots of fun seams, pockets and tabs at the waist. Since I’m a big fan of topstitching, I could hardly wait to sink my teeth into this one. And it did not disappoint!  I was a little concerned about the length of the jacket since I’m short-waisted and only 5’ 4”. The sizing of this pattern was spot on for me. I did do a tissue fitting, paying attention to the shoulders and waistline. In the end, I decided to leave all as is and the fit is good!

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The double seams in the front are so retro and cool. It’s well worth the time required to make it. If I had to say, I’d rate the skills required to make the jacket at intermediate level. Collar insertion and cuffs are required which can be a bit challenging, but the instructions are very complete. There’s lots of topstitching on the jacket which takes time, but I personally love sewing projects with alot of detail. I used a light gray thread to make the stitching pop. I chose medium weight denim and I’m glad I didn’t go any heavier. A heavy denim would make it difficult to get the thick seams pressed and topstitched, so I’d stick with a light to medium weight denim.

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Next up is the Ravello dress… a lovely versatile pattern. You can make it as a dress (long or short) or you can crop it as a top. I made it three ways, as a short dress, a cropped wrap top in linen and also another wrap top in Liberty cotton. The dress is a breeze to make, and is perfect for a beginner. It isn’t lined, so beware of picking a sheer fabric. A linen, lightweight cotton or rayon would be my choices for this pattern. It’s a quick make as the kimono style sleeves are cut into the bodice – – you can make this one in an afternoon. I love my top versions too, and want to make a long dress in the future.

Here’s the long wrap top version.

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And here’s the cropped linen version with the skirt of my Siena sun dress.

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The most challenging piece of all in the collection has to be the Siena dress!

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It can be made into a one piece sundress or made as separates ( a camisole style top and skirt). I love to mix and match so I chose the separates version. The dress has a shirred back and since I’d never tried shirring before I had to give this a whirl. It’s a fun process and not to hard to do. The top wasn’t the easiest piece to fit but end result was worth it. I made both pieces from linen. Rayon or cotton would work well too. I absolutely love the skirt. It will be in heavy rotation throughout the summer.

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My last make from the collection was the Alba skirt.

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This skirt is what summer dressing is all about! It’s a simple wrap skirt that you can make with or without a ruffle. I made it without the ruffle and it was such a fast easy make. A flowy fabric like rayon is best for this skirt. I like to wear it with a tee shirt, or with my Ravello top or my Sorrento jacket!

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This collection really would be perfect for travel (when we can safely do that again! ). The patterns are at a variety of sewing levels so there’s something here for everyone. I’ll use the jacket, dress and skirt patterns again and again. Thanks to Sew Over It for giving me the chance to try out these lovely patterns!

Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by.

Four Linen LB Pull Overs

Published on by ellegeemakes4 Comments

Even though I didn’t post photos during Me Made May, I’ve been taking stock of my me-made wardrobe. To my surprise, my Spring wardrobe includes 4 linen LB pullovers! What’s even more surprising, is that I’ve never written a blog post about one of my favorite patterns. It’s time to rectify that situation.

If you’re unfamiliar with the LB pullover by Paper Theory, here’s a quick run down. It’s a loose-fitting top that is suitable for wovens or knits. It has drop shoulders and long sleeves which you can modify to any length you want. There are two neck finishes, a turtleneck version or crew neck. I love this pattern because the look changes with your fabric choice. Also, it’s fun to hack!

My first linen version was simple.

This is a straightforward, out of the box version from lightweight linen (Josephines fabric.) Instant love. Immediately, I cut another in a lightweight linen (from Britex).

This time, I cropped the bodice by 6 inches and added a 8 inch peplum. To figure out how wide to make the peplum, I measured the width of the fabric at the bottom of the bodice and multiplied that by 1 1/2. Then I gathered the peplum using long stitches before stitching it to the shortened bodice. So easy! I love the loose fit of this version.

I used a remnant in my stash for this violet colored version. I absolutley love the soft feel of this linen. I cropped this version a bit, shortening the bodice by three inches. The sleeves are 3/4 length and I love to roll them up. I used the turtle neck pattern, but took a 1.5 inches off the width. This top is so easy to wear. It’s in heavy rotation.

This last version is color blocked with two linen remnants.

When the weather is hot, this hankerchief linen version is my favorite. It’s so great to work with a pattern that looks so different based on your fabric choice. I have two more LB pullovers on my cutting table, this time in knit fabrics. More on those in another post.

I hope you are well and happy during this strange, challenging time. I am grateful for the joy sewing brings and for our fabulous community of makers. Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by!

 

 

My First Tamarack Jacket

Published on by ellegeemakes20 Comments

This jacket has been on my sewing to-do list for such a long time. I kept shuffling it to the bottom of the queue as I waited for a block of time to tackle it. Well, as you all know, I’ve got that time now!

The tamarack is quilted, making it perfect for those cooler evenings in spring and fall. For my first Tamarack (yes there will be others), I decided to use Merchant and Mills pre-quilted cotton. It’s such a lovely weight and texture, well worth the price. With this fabric, it isn’t really necessary to line the jacket, but I did anyway. I used an Nano Iro linen ( Bolt Fabric.) that’s so soft. I chose a contrasting lining so that it would would really show when the sleeves are rolled up. I finished the edges with self-made bias binding in linen (Josephine’s fabric). 

Even though I didn’t have to, I wanted the lining to be quilted, so I followed the lines already provided in my outer fabric. This was a fun, stress free way to go, and I highly recommend it!  I love how the extra quilting adds more texture to the bodice of the jacket. 

In order to get the fit I wanted, I shortened the jacket by 1 1/2 inches (I’m 5′ 4”). I love this modified length. The fit of the bodice seemed a little boxy for me so I tapered it a bit at the waist. 

The biggest construction challenge was the welt pockets. The quilted fabric is thick, making it tricky to get everything to lie flat. I decided to practice making a pocket with some thick fabric I had leftover from another project. I’m really glad I did. I felt pretty secure when I had to cut into my lovely quilted fabric. I do like the look of the welt pockets, but will likely use patch pockets next time so that the jacket will be reversible. If I had to do it over, I’d make this one reversible too, as I love the lining almost as much as the outside fabric! 

The other challenge with my thick quilt sandwich was sewing the binding around the edges. I used fabric clips I bought at Joann’s to hold the layers together as I sewed. 

Overall, this was a fun, satisfying project, and I highly recommend it. The construction of the jacket isn’t as challenging as it appears. There isn’t a collar to mess with for one thing. Also, the slow process of quilting the jacket was lovely and calming. In fact, it made me more curious about quilting in general. I may try to do a bit of improvisational quilting with my fabric scraps. What better time to play with new sewing experiences than now!

I hope you all are well and happy. Thanks for stopping by! 

A Nano Iro Summer Coat

Published on by ellegeemakes4 Comments

I told myself when the ‘stay at home’ time began, that I would use it as an opportunity to tackle sewing projects that were either time consuming or that had been on my to-do list for awhile. This project falls into both categories.

This coat is from the Nano Iro sewing book, by far my favorite sewing purchase of 2019! I love japanese sewing patterns, and here, they are conveniently translated. 

This pattern is called, appropriately, the summer coat. It’s unlined and best made in cotton or linen, two fabrics I can’t get enough of. I made it before, here and absolutely love wearing it. 

For this version of the summer coat, I used a really special piece of fabric I purchased in Rome last September at an amazing fabric store, Azienda Tessile Romana. 

If you visit Rome, do not miss this fabric store. The fabrics are gorgeous and when I visited, the staff was so helpful and generous with their time. You will not be disappointed. (Hopefully, we’ll all be free to visit there soon.) 

This fabric is a amazing cotton Jacquard and the texture is perfect for this coat (Black is hard to photograph, and these photos don’t do justice to this fabric!) It has just enough body to support the lapels and to give this loose-fitting coat a bit of structure. I wish I had more of this fabulous fabric!

Construction of the coat was easy. The lapels are cut into the coat, then faced. The trickest part for me was the neck facing. Even though I’d made this pattern before, I must admit, I struggled! The diagrams in the instructions helped, but for some reason, it was counterintuitive for me. I couldn’t make the facing fit to the jacket. Eventually, I realized it was because I was trying to fit the wrong side of the facing to the neck opening. Once I came to terms with that, it fit easily. 

I do love this jacket. In fact, the patterns in this book are all on my to-do list. The photos in this book are inspirational too. The fabrics they chose are enviable – – double gauzes and linens in bright colors.  I’m so glad I ticked this coat off my to-do list as it will be absolutely perfect to wear on cool Spring days.

Next up is a Tamarack Jacket. I hope to show that to you soon. 

Sewing is helping me to get through these strange days. Good health and happiness to you all. Thanks for stopping by! 

A Wiksten Haori in Kantha Cloth

Published on by ellegeemakes24 Comments

I don’t know about you, but I’m craving a bit of ‘normal’ right now. So let’s just dive into the details of this new make, a Wiksten Haori jacket. 

If you haven’t tried this pattern, you’re missing out on some fun! It’s a chance to use your favorite fabrics in a way that makes them so wearable. This is my third Haori (others posted here and here), and I’m sure there will be more. 

This is an unstructured, loose-fitting jacket with three length variations, short, medium and long. I prefer the short, cropped version on me as I really like the proportions, but I’m in love with some of the longer versions I’ve seen in wool, so I might try one of those too. 

This jacket looks more complicated than it is. If you can sew a straight seam, you can make this jacket. Yes, it is lined but that’s nothing to worry about because creating the lining is simple. You just sew another jacket from your lining material and attach the two at the bottom seam.  The only modification I made to the pattern was to leave the interfacing out of the collar band as my fabric was stiff enough.

The beauty of the Haori is that it really allows the fabric to shine. My fabric is a Kantha cloth. I found a piece at Modern Domestic then found a bit more  at Cool Cottons, here in Portland. It’s amazing fabric with beautiful colors and the layers of cloth are stitched together with a long quilting stitch. It makes me happy just looking at it!  I’m wearing it with the linen shirt I made from a japanese pattern book (posted here.) I think they work well together.

Sewing is such a stress reliever for me. In these challenging times, I’m grateful that I have a pastime that comforts me, and a community to share it with. Hang in there all, and thanks for stopping by! 

Vogue 9311: Playing Dress-up

Published on by ellegeemakes18 Comments

My every-day wardrobe consists of easy-to-wear layers. But once I year, I have the opportunity to really dress-up. The choir that I sing with, Oregon Repertory Singers has an annual fundraiser where formal attire is required. I always look forward to the opportunity to sew and wear something special.

In past years, I’ve sewn cocktail length dresses, but this year, I wanted something different, so I decided to go ‘long’. Honestly, in all my years of sewing, I’ve only sewn a couple of long dresses. What?? I know!! If it isn’t time now, when will it be?  

For the pattern, I chose Vogue 9311, a long dress with optional sleeves and ruffle. I love the v-neck line and think that it gives the dress a look of elegance. I made the long sleeve version, but shortened them to 3/4 length. Instead of cuffs, I used elastic to gather the base of the sleeves. I wanted to be able to push them up and away from my dinner:). 

The biggest challenge with this make was the fabric. I love the look of this burnout velvet, but it really was tough to work with. The shimmer comes from shiny gold fibres that are woven into the spaces between the sections of velvet ‘burnout’ and they tended to snag. Also, the fabric frayed like crazy so I finished all the edges with my serger before sewing the seams. I purchased microtex needles which really worked nicely! 

Even though the pattern doesn’t call for a lining, I chose to line the bodice and skirt with solid black silk. This really helped give the skirt more body and structure. The lining was easy to create and gave the entire dress a nice finished feel. It’s so lovely to wear! The ties are meant to be worn in the back, but they were so long, I was able to play around with the look, and decided I liked them better in front. 

I’m pretty pleased with my new frock and absolutely love this Vogue pattern. It’s been in my stash for awhile, and I’m so glad I finally decided to make it. I can imagine a version for Spring, maybe in linen. I really enjoyed wearing this dress last weekend. It felt so elegant. The good news is that I’ll have another chance to wear it when we sing with the Oregon Symphony in April.

This project really marks the end of winter sewing for me. I’m really ready to sew up some of my lovely woven fabrics for Spring and Summer. How about you?

Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by!