Category: dress pattern

Greeting Fall with two Isca Shirt Dresses

Published on by ellegeemakes10 Comments

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Hi all. It’s been awhile since I’ve posted and I hope this finds you well! In September, I took a break from sewing for most of the month. We took a road trip through Yellowstone and the Tetons. During our trip, the hardest worker in my wardrobe was, hands down, my quilted Tamarack Jacket.

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I wore it everywhere, even hiking. The Merchant and Mills quilted cotton was just the right weight for cooler days, but also light and comfortable when it was warm. I hope there’s more of that fabric in my future! The jacket is so comfortable, I’m contemplating making another. (Here’s my previous post on the jacket if you’re interested.)

But on to the Isca Shirtdress by Marilla Walker.

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Before the trip, I decided a longer sleeved linen shirtdress would be a great travel dress. I couldn’t resist downloading the Isca Shirt dress, a pattern by Marilla Walker. It has a cool v-shaped yoke detailing on the bodice. And the pockets are perfection! Luckily, I had a big enough piece of linen in my stash.

To make the front inset stand out, I wanted the plaid to be on the diagonal, so I cut those two pieces on the bias.

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Construction was generally a breeze, but I did found the front bodice to be challenging. It’s meant to wrap over the shoulder apex and attach to the back bodice. That made it a very strange looking pattern piece! It threw me and I had to study the diagrams carefully to figure it out which pieces were seamed where. Once I saw the ‘light’, the construction was simple. My advice is to trust the pattern instructions, even though at first glance, it seems counter intuitive.

The fit is pretty forgiving (as in loose). I cut the smallest size but ended up taking in the side seams to adjust the volume of the skirt. If you’re between sizes you might want to size down. I shortened the length of the bodice by two inches because I’m short waisted.

I love, love the finished product. In fact, so much so, I quickly made another version out of a navy linen I bought last year in Rome (wow that seems like ages ago….).

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This linen is so wonderful to sew, and it has just the right drape for this project. You don’t want a stiff linen for this dress because of the gathers.

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I’m certain both dresses will get alot of wear once I have somewhere to go, LOL!

These are strange times and my routines have shifted in ways I never expected. Some days, I feel productive, and other days I seem to just be ‘marking time’. For me, having a sewing project to complete really helps. There’s something almost meditative about the process of making by hand. I feel so lucky to have a passion that makes me feel better and friends to share it with.

Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by.

#featured, #linen, #shirt-dress, #summer-wardrobe, #travel-wardrobe

ellegeemakes | October 11, 2020 at 1:25 pm | Tags: featured, linen, shirt dress, summer wardrobe, travel wardrobe | Categories: capsule wardrobe, dress pattern, linen, shirt dress, Uncategorized | URL: https://wp.me/p5M1Tl-4vk
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Greeting Fall with two Isca Shirt Dresses

 

Vogue 9311: Playing Dress-up

Published on by ellegeemakes18 Comments

My every-day wardrobe consists of easy-to-wear layers. But once I year, I have the opportunity to really dress-up. The choir that I sing with, Oregon Repertory Singers has an annual fundraiser where formal attire is required. I always look forward to the opportunity to sew and wear something special.

In past years, I’ve sewn cocktail length dresses, but this year, I wanted something different, so I decided to go ‘long’. Honestly, in all my years of sewing, I’ve only sewn a couple of long dresses. What?? I know!! If it isn’t time now, when will it be?  

For the pattern, I chose Vogue 9311, a long dress with optional sleeves and ruffle. I love the v-neck line and think that it gives the dress a look of elegance. I made the long sleeve version, but shortened them to 3/4 length. Instead of cuffs, I used elastic to gather the base of the sleeves. I wanted to be able to push them up and away from my dinner:). 

The biggest challenge with this make was the fabric. I love the look of this burnout velvet, but it really was tough to work with. The shimmer comes from shiny gold fibres that are woven into the spaces between the sections of velvet ‘burnout’ and they tended to snag. Also, the fabric frayed like crazy so I finished all the edges with my serger before sewing the seams. I purchased microtex needles which really worked nicely! 

Even though the pattern doesn’t call for a lining, I chose to line the bodice and skirt with solid black silk. This really helped give the skirt more body and structure. The lining was easy to create and gave the entire dress a nice finished feel. It’s so lovely to wear! The ties are meant to be worn in the back, but they were so long, I was able to play around with the look, and decided I liked them better in front. 

I’m pretty pleased with my new frock and absolutely love this Vogue pattern. It’s been in my stash for awhile, and I’m so glad I finally decided to make it. I can imagine a version for Spring, maybe in linen. I really enjoyed wearing this dress last weekend. It felt so elegant. The good news is that I’ll have another chance to wear it when we sing with the Oregon Symphony in April.

This project really marks the end of winter sewing for me. I’m really ready to sew up some of my lovely woven fabrics for Spring and Summer. How about you?

Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by!

A Burda Sweater Dress you can make in a day

Published on by ellegeemakes16 Comments

A simple pattern that feels stylish, and on-trend. There’s nothing better, eh?

The pattern for this sweater dress is one I’ve used before, traced patiently from a Burda style magazine pattern sheet. Once I’ve taken the time to trace a pattern, it’s always pleasing when I’m inspired to use it again!

This pattern is Burda 1/2019/111, destined to be a tried and true pattern for me. There are two things that attracted me to it ; the cocoon shape….

and the ‘audrey hepburn’ collar!

UNSPECIFIED – CIRCA 1955: Photo of Audrey Hepburn Photo by Michael Ochs Archives/Getty Images

In-seam pockets are so useful and stylish, don’t you think?

Construction Details: My fabric is a unusual textured knit I bought last year on sale at Joann’s. The knit is incredibly comfortable to wear, but I do have to admit, the stretch recovery is a bit on the relaxed side. As a result, the cocoon shape of this dress isn’t quite as pronounced as my last version (here.) Even though I’m a tad bit disappointed, the dress is fast becoming a favorite, worn over leggings, even jeans. Live and learn. I’ll be more careful when I choose knits for dresses in the future. Other than that, construction of this dress was pretty straightforward. I used my serger ( so easy) to sew and finish my seams. All in all, this dress only took about three hours!!

The Burda pattern magazine is so inspiring, but to be honest, I haven’t renewed my subscription for this year. The price tag is pretty hefty (in the States the price has increased to $100 per year), and I’d have to trace alot of patterns to make the montly investment pencil out. Instead, I’ve subscribed to the Burda on-line newsletter, (recently updated). I hope to get my monthly dose of Burda that way! We’ll see how long I can resist the urge to renew….

This weekend, I pulled a few pieces of linen and cotton from my fabric stash. I’m getting in the mood for Spring sewing. How about you?

Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by!

A Kalle Shirtdress Becomes a Coat

Published on by ellegeemakes12 Comments

This week, I marked the beginning of Fall by completing my first cold-weather sewing project. My new denim walking coat was just the kind of project I needed to cope with ‘post vacation blues’. It’s a topstitching extravaganza, just the therapy I needed. Some sewists find topstitching to be stressful, but for me, the focus required is actually a relief that my brain craves when I’m down. 

My inspiration for this coat was a denim coat, designed by Madewell. I saw Cobie Smulders wear it on the already cancelled show, “Friends from College.” It’s a loose-fitting coat, made of mid-weight denim with a hidden placket and a tie belt. 

Although Colbie wore it as a dress on the show, I saw it as a long coat for Fall. Many of my knit dresses (here and here) are below my knees, so this coat will accomodate that length easily.

Pattern: To make the coat, I modified a tried and true pattern, the Kalle Shirt Dress. This pattern has so many options, I recommend it highly.

I chose this pattern because the fit is great, but loose and classic. To make it coat length, I added six inches to the bodice. To create the back vent, I eliminated the back pleat and added a seam instead, open at the bottom. Otherwise, I left the pattern pretty much as is.

 The orginal pattern has short sleeves, but I purchased the long sleeve extension from the Closet Case website. Instead of the classic french cuffs suggested by them, I eliminated the closure on the cuffs, and just folded them back.

Fabric: I used a medium weight denim from my stash for the with a darker denim for the collar, cuffs and pockets. The Kalle has one pocket, but I drafted three more. I used double topstitching on the pockets to make them pop.

I always love using a tried and true pattern in an unexpected way. As a coat, the Kalle does not disappoint! With this make, I’m officially accepting that Fall is here. It’s time to pull out the knits and wools from my stash and sew cozy

Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by!

Burda 6330 in Striped Linen

Published on by ellegeemakes13 Comments

IMG_0552I’m really in love with the Summer catalog for Burda patterns. There are so many great styles this season. This make and my last make are both from this collection and I know, there will be a few more.

I have to say – – this dress was so fun to sew!

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Sometimes, I don’t know why I enjoy one project more than another, but in this instance, the reason is clear. It’s all about this striped linen (Joann’s). The weight is perfect for a dress, and I loved playing with the placement of the stripes.  As you all know, sometimes, stripe placement can be a headache that takes the joy out of a project. This time, it was a blast.

My pattern, Burda 6339, is unique in several ways.

The waistband has a slight curve (hard to see in the line drawings) which makes it fit so well. Also, that piece is cut on the cross grain as are the sleeve bands. So, those pieces are designed as contrast pieces which works nicely with my stripes.

The trickiest bit here was to get the sleeves and sleeve bands to match perfectly.

IMG_0510Since the pattern on this linen repeats, I had to cut the critical pieces one at a time from a single layer of fabric to insure that the placement of the would be right. Repeating patterns always make me crazy (!!) but I love the challenge they present too. I’m always amazed/surprised when it actually works out. I was able to get a good match on the sleeves, the sleeve band, the bodice and the skirt too.

The construction method for finishing the neckline of this dress is really nice. There’s a wide facing that doesn’t just face the neck, but it wraps around the armsyce too.IMG_0720

This means that after the sleeve is inserted, the facing is really secure. It won’t pop up no matter what. It provides a nice finished look to the insides of the dress to, which makes this sewist so happy!

IMG_0548I also have to give a shout out to Joann’s for carrying this lovely linen. Good linen is always such a pleasure to sew and wear, it’s the fabric I look for first when I shop. I’m fussy about the quality, and am really pleased with this particular linen from Joann’s. A few years ago, I wouldn’t have even bothered to look at their linen, but this year, their inventory is expanded and really interesting. I hope this trend continues!

Speaking of trends, my pattern stash of Burda catalog patterns is really limited. Now that I’ve made two patterns from the summer collection, I’m sure I’ll peruse their catalog next Fall and Winter rather carefully.  It’s so strange that I’ve ignored that catalog before….Hmmmm. Is it the catalog photos that don’t inspire or the fact that there are fewer sales….? Or maybe I’m the only clueless one?

As you can see, I wore my only pair of red shoes with this dress. Which do you think came first…the shoes, or the fabric?  🙂 Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by!

 

 

 

New Pattern: Sew Over It Kitty Dress

Published on by ellegeemakes5 Comments

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As a Sew Over It Pattern Insider, I had the opportunity to test Sew Over It’s latest pattern, the Kitty Dress. I love a good shirt dress (here and here) and this one is perfect with lots of design details and options that make it unique – a shawl collar, a gathered or paneled skirt, and your choice of sleeves or no sleeves at all.

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It’s the design of the Kitty dress that makes it tick all the boxes for me. It’s so versatile- – two bodice and skirt styles that you can mix and match!  You can choose a princess seam bodice or a two-dart bodice. Both choices can be paired with one of two skirts: either paneled or a gathered option.  Both skirts feature in-seam pockets, and all versions are cinched in at the waist with a waistband, which makes them look great on everyone.

If I had to rate the difficulty of this pattern, I’d say it’s a great option for an intermediate sewer, or for a beginner who wants to learn some new skills. The instructions are detailed and helpful, so it’s easy to dive right in!

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It’s no secret that I love sewing patterns that give you options so that you can play and modify as inspired. At first, since I’m a fan of a bodice with princess seams, I was drawn to option 1, but when I made my fabric choice, I changed to option two. My rayon print is colorful, and I felt the princess seam detail would be lost in the fabric’s design. So, instead, I paired the double-darted bodice option with the gathered skirt.

I love long flow-y dresses in the Spring and Summer, so I made my Kitty dress from a lovely rayon from Joanns’. This rayon has a bit of texture to it, giving it a casual crinkled look that I love. The drape of this rayon is perfect for my mid-length Kitty because it gives the skirt some swish! For added style, I chose the shawl collar, which has a bit of a vintage vibe.

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The double darted bodice was easy to sew – -just two pattern pieces, both shaped nicely by bust darts and waist darts. Because I have a large waist relative to my bust measurement, I made a test version to make sure the fit was accurate, and I’m glad I did.  I quickly realized the darts needed to be widened slightly to compensate for my non-standard waist.

Fitting the gathered skirt was easy. I used my hip measurements to choose the size to cut and it worked great without adjustments. Gathered skirts are so forgiving and so easy to sew!! I love the way this skirt looks and swishes in the mid-calf length. It’s all I was hoping it woud be.

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I love my Kitty dress, so much, version one is in my sewing queue( princess seams and sleeveless), maybe in a cotton lawn or linen for summer. The updated version of the Kitty is available at Sew Over It now.

The weather here in Portland is improving – I hope to take my Kitty outside for a test run soon!

Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by.

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Sew Over It Meredith Wrap Dress

Published on by ellegeemakes6 Comments

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I was so pleased to be invited to be a Pattern Insider for Sew Over It patterns. I’ve been in love with their designs (especially the awesome Cocoon Coat here) so I’m excited to have the opportunity to show your their new release patterns here.

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The Meredith Wrap Dress was love at first sight for me. I do love a good wrap dress and this one did not disappoint. It comes in a short and love version with sleeve length variations.

I made the longer version, probably because the weather has been so cool here lately. As summer heat rolls in though, I might be inclined to shorten this hem a bit.

IMG_6130I’m so impressed with the fit of this dress! There isn’t a gap at the front and the neckline is just right, not too low like some patterns. I cut the size my measurements indicated and it fit perfectly, without any adjustments, always a win if you ask me:). Assembling the dress is pretty straightforward. Unlike some other wrap dresses I’ve tried, this pattern has one long front facing which makes it easy to stitch this dress together quickly. The two front bodices are mirror images of each other (rather than one bodice cut wide and one narrow to make the wrap), so the wrap closure is secure and comfortable to wear. The sleeves set in beautifully.  The tie is attached to the front facings before they’re stitched together.

 

IMG_6085I made my dress out of a soft jersey that I found at Modern Domestic here in Portland (also on-line). It’s the loveliest fabric to wear and sew with – – if only I could wear this dress all the time. It has just the right amount of two way stretch for the Meredith Dress. Really, any stretchy knit will do! I could imagine this in a silky rayon knit, or in a scuba knit too.

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The Meredith gets a big thumbs up from me, and there will likely be more of these in my future. I love my print jersey version, but could see this working well in a solid color. It would make a very elegant little black dress don’t you think?  Hmmm… The Meredith was just released, and it should be up on the Sew Over It website now.

Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by.

Disclaimer: As a Sew Over It Pattern Insider, I receive a free pdf copy of the pattern in return for my review, but the opinion expressed here is mine:)

#sewbibs: Seamwork Dani Pinafore

Published on by ellegeemakes12 Comments

IMG_5472Believe it or not….this Dani Pinafore is my first make of a Seamwork pattern. What took me so long?

IMG_5553I’ve never really investigated Seamwork patterns because I assumed (wrongly)  that because Seamwork patterns were part of a online magazine/club, they were simple designs, really meant for beginners. I suppose that’s true in some instances, but certainly not in this pattern.

sw3093-dani-01-large-1d45fe69fcb7935303658eef9020e3c945df0ae16c0f1ec38a6c182a7fe42449 The design of this pinafore includes so many things I like – – interesting seam details, pockets, a deep v-neck. The pinafore is fully lined, complete with armhole and neck facings as well.

IMG_5439Fabric: I used a medium weight dark wash denim and topstitched with medium gray thread. For a bit of fun, I lined it in polka dot rayon.

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Construction Notes – – 

Size: I chose the size indicated by measurements, then did a quick muslin, and quickly reaized it was going to be a bit too big. So I sized down and think the fit is pretty good at this point. If you’re thinking about making this….you might want to do the same.

Modifications – – As designed, the skirt is pretty short. I lengthened the bodice by 1 and 1/2” . Even with that change, I was left with a very narrow hem. The neckline is lovely, but pretty low, so I raised it by an inch.

I eliminated the inseam pockets and added patch pockets. All seams are flat-felled and topstitched with a twin needle.The front bodice and front skirt darts are topstitched too.

Rather than cutting the front and back bodice on the fold, I added a flat-felled seam at the center front and back, and topstitched.

IMG_5458Denim and topstitching are two of my sewing ‘loves’ so this project ticks off all of the boxes for me. I’m so glad I found this lovely pattern, and lucky me…it was free ( I won from a the Day/Night Dress Challenge drawing)!  I know there will be other Dani’s in my future…I’m already eyeing a piece of linen in my stash for a summer version that will be perfect for hot sticky days.

IMG_5442I hope you’re enjoying the #sewbibs challenge on instagram as much as I am- – Thanks to cookin’ and craftin for organzing a challenge that inspired me to add two new pinafores to my wardrobe (here’s the other one if you missed the post). Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by.

 

Sew Bibs with Simplicity 8610

Published on by ellegeemakes5 Comments

IMG_5150There’s nothing like a community sewing challenge to motivate me to complete a project that’s lingered too long on my to do list. This pinafore pattern has been on my wish list since I made the jumpsuit version last Spring (here). It took the #sewbibs challenge to push me to get it done! (more about the challenge here)

My pattern is Simplicity 8610.

I love the big pockets, topstitched front band, buttoned straps. But if this doesn’t grab you, there are many other pinafore patterns to explore. Here are a few that are on my wish list right now.

The York Pinafore from Helen’s closet

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The Dani from Seamwork

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I chose Simplicity 8610 for the big pockets, front gathers and the cool bodice band detail. Also, I love the size of the straps, a detail that can make or break this design for me. If they’re too narrow, they’re uncomfortable, but these are just right.

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Construction – I cut the size indicated by my measurements and there were no surprises or adjustment’s needed. (Size options are from 6-24).  The construction of the bodice is pretty easy and fast to put together. Although I made my jumpsuit version from a rayon crepe, I decided to make my pinafore from a cotton, and I’m glad I did. I think the cotton gives the pinafore a bit more structure which works well to support the gathered details and the fabulous pockets (a must on a pinafore, don’t you think?).

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One of the nice things about this style is that you can wear it with a long or short-sleeved top under it which makes it a great layering piece. It’s still cold and rainy here, so I chose a long sleeve, but come Spring, I’ll happily wear this with a short sleeve top, or maybe even alone.

IMG_5192I’m such a fan of the pinafore style. I think it’s perfect for casual wear about town, or as a travel wardrobe item that you use as a layering piece. I know there will be other pinafores in my future, and since the challenge is on until April 12…would love to finish another before then:)

There are so many inspiring bibs and pinafores on #sewbibs on Instagram right now. Do you have a favorite bib sewing pattern to recommend?

Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by!

Sew Twists and Ties: the Ruska Knot Dress

Published on by ellegeemakes13 Comments

 

When Named Clothing released their book, Breaking the Pattern, I could hardly wait to get my hands on it! I’m not a big fan of sewing books, but the Named Clothing designs really appeal to me (here, here, and here, ). Their modern, pared-down vibe is so contemporary and elegant. So, I asked Santa for a copy and he delivered.

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The book was even better than I expected. Breaking the Pattern is all about taking their basic patterns, and ‘breaking’ them apart with variations and hacks. The book comes with ten patterns with two variations each and instructions on how to do more. In fact, the ten patterns in the book can generate fifty variations (!!) which makes this book and its patterns an economical choice. The ‘easy’ patterns are at the beginning of the book..the hard ones at the end. All the patterns are included  – – you trace the ones you like.

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The Ruska knit dress caught my eye right away which isn’t a big surprise. These days, I’m really drawn to knit dresses. After watching a few episodes of Marie Kondo ‘tidying up’, I’ve been ‘Kondoing’ my wardrobe. Guess what! Knit dresses and tops consistently bring me joy (secret pajamas!!). They make great layering pieces too over tights, leggings, even jeans.

 

 

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The Ruska can be made as a basic dress, a tee or with a knotted tie in the front. It’s probably no surprise to anyone that I immediately went for the version with the knot in the front, LOL! Admittedly, I do have a ‘thing’ for ties, knots and twists (proof available here, here and here.) And, there’s a challenge on Instagram this month, hosted by Meg from Cookin and Craftin, Sew Twists and Ties, which I just can’t resist!

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For the dress, a firm knit with good recovery is recommended. For my first version (the aubergine version above), I used stretch velor (Britex.com) with medium stretch, but not great recovery. Yes, this fabric is a bit thick for this dress, but I have been trying for years to re-create a stretchy velor dress I had in high school! The dress turned out well, especially when you consider the fabric wasn’t perfect. The fit was good without fuss, and it felt stylish and comfortable So, I couldn’t resist trying the Ruska again with a another knit fabric.

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This knit from Joann’s is fabulous; a wool blend with great recovery. There’s such a difference in the look and feel of this dress. I made this version long (midi length) for fun. We’ll see if I leave it that long, LOL. I tend to favor shorter dresses because I feel more energetic in them for some reason. Maybe it’s the fabric against my legs that makes the difference? Obviously, the drape of this knit is better for the dress, and the fit is sleeker too.

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This dress went together quickly, and the instructions in the book were easy to follow. I was so pleased with the fit. I found my measurements on the size chart in the book and found it accurate. There really weren’t any construction challenges. The knot and tie look trickier to sew than they really are. The tie is part of an overlay piece that just fits over the basic dress and is attached at the shoulder and side seams.  The edges of the tie are finished with a narrow machine hem. Easy!

I’m giving this pattern a big thumbs up! The fit of the Ruska is such a winner for me, I’m going to use the basic tee option to sew to fill some gaps in my basic wardrobe. I’ll make the Ruska this summer with a colorful jersey, maybe even a stripe.

Yay!! A couple of new dresses that will ‘bring me joy’. (Are any of you as focussed as I am on ‘Kondoing’ my wardrobe, my house, my life???) This pattern was a great way to ease into using this book. I can’t wait to try a some of other patterns this Spring.

If you’ve been on the fence about buying it, give it a look. Yes, you have to trace the patterns, but the sheets aren’t nearly as crazy as they could be (Burda Style, anyone?).

Thanks to Meg at Cookin and Craftin for hosting this fun challenge! Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by.