An Easy Burda Dress You Can Sew in Two Hours

IMG_1018This dress was a spur of the moment project. I decided the morning of an event that I wanted a new dress to wear that afternoon. There’s nothing like waiting  until the last minute, eh?! It’s too bad that #Jiffyjune is over because, honestly, this project has jiffy written all over it. It took less than two hours from start to finish.

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Fortunately, I had the perfect pattern for a last minute sew waiting in my stash.

This Burda pattern (6345) is a real keeper. I understand from the Burda Style website that it was featured in the magazine in 2016 (6/2016/101). I didn’t subscribe back then, so missed it, but it was instant love when I saw it in the Burda pattern book this summer.

This dress is so easy, yet the design is so visually interesting. The sleeves are part of the yoke, which makes sewing so simple.

IMG_1026I used a medium weight jersey that I had in my stash (yeah, a stash buster).  The pattern suggests using stripes because the design is such a perfect canvas for ‘stripe play’. I love how changing the direction of the stripes on the yoke really makes this dress pop! There isn’t a zipper to install…the dress just slips over your head. The neck is simply finished with a gand cut on the bias – so easy!

Because this pattern is made for knits, fit issues for me were next to none. I cut my usual size, and it fit without adjustments. I finsihed the seams with my serger, so even though this was a quick sew,  the inside of the dress looks great.

IMG_1020I’m so pleased with my spur of the moment dress! It will likely be my garment of choice tomorrow for the Fourth of July; Independence Day here in the states, since red, white and blue are the colors of the day.

 

I do love a quick, jiffy sew (am I the only one who sews a garment 2 hours before a party?). I have a bin in my pattern stash that’s marked ‘jiffy and some of my favorite patterns live there (hmmm, might be a future post?). It’s so nice to add this lovely new pattern to my  bin.  Thanks, Burda!!

Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by!      

Pattern Giveaway: Sew Over It Kitty Dress

A couple of weeks ago, I shared with you my new Sew Over It Kitty Dress, Sew Over It’s lovely new pattern. I’ve worn my dress several times and absolutely love it so I’m thrilled to be able to offer a Kitty dress Giveaway. It’s a PDF pattern with several view options that make the dress so versatile.

Love the mix and match options!

To enter, just leave a comment here between now and Saturday midnight, and I’ll put your name in for the drawing. I’ll announce the winner here. Good luck…and thanks for stopping by!

A Floral Wrap Dress for Fall

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Fall sewing means dark florals, plaids, heathered wools…it’s all fabulous to me! The weather has turned a sharp corner here in Oregon. Yesterday was wet and blustery, a perfect day to stay in and sew. I knew exactly what I wanted to make. Wrap dresses have been on my mind since my trip to France. They were everywhere in Paris, on the women and in the stores, and most were made from rich, vibrant florals.

 

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Fortuantely, I had the perfect Rayon challis in my stash, purchased at Mill End store last fall.

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I used my trusty wrap dress pattern, Vogue 9313 (also made here).

 

 

I love this pattern because it comes with separate pattern pieces for A, B, C, and D cups. Before I met this pattern, wrap dresses and their bodice closure always challenged me. rI could never get them to stay closed without gaping. I believe this happened because my cup size (small) is not in proportion to my hip size, as drafted by most pattern companies. In any event, Vogue solved my problem with this pattern!

Other things I love – – the width of the front band and skirt bands are wide enough (some I’ve tried are not, a pet peeve of mine.) I also love the back yoke, a nice detail that adds a bit of style and a lovely fit.

One big change I made: I redrafted the skirt. The skirt options are a big ‘circle’ skirt or a pencil. I wanted something in between, a ‘a-line’ style, a skirt with some movement, but not a full skirt. So, I took the pencil skirt and redrafted it as a-line, (I widened it gradually on the side and at the front) placing the darts as they were on the pencil skirt option.  I also straightened the angled front where the skirt overlaps, just because I like a skirt that stays closed easily when it’s windy and cold. The other construction detail I changed is that I didn’t slip stitch the front band facing down (all that handstitching made no sense to me). I secured it with my machine by first finishing the front bodice and skirt band’s edges with my serger. Then, folded the edge over, pressed, then ‘stitched in the ditch’ to hold the facing in place.

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Most of the dresses I’ve been eyeing in RTW are midi-length this season, so I hemmed this a bit longer than I usually do. I can’t wait to find some yummy boots to wear with it…shopping now!

Florals have never been my thing, but I can sense that is changing. I actually bought some Liberty cotton while traveling and I really love it. So expect to see a few more florals in my future posts. I’m glad I gave this floral a try – I know I’ll wear this dress constantly this winter with tights, and boots and with a long sweater thrown over it!

Mitchell likes to be in photos…what can I say?

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Here, he was my helper, showing me that my bootie wasn’t zipped up. Handy guy to have around!

Fall sewing plans? Mine are evolving. I’m really into plaid and have been imagining a plaid button up skirt, and a cape or jacket. I wear my denim shirtdress (here) alot in the Fall, and I have an urge to add a new one to my wardrobe. I’m also pretty inspired by the lovely trench coats I see everywhere. I want to try to make one (a first!) but, I still haven’t found the perfect pattern. As the plan develops, I may do a post about inspirations and patterns, which I’ve never done before. Thoughts and advice is appreciated.

Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by!!

 

An Anthro Lace Dress Knock-Off

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Which one is from Anthropologie? Ha, just kidding. As you all know, I have a thing for lace and when I saw the above dress from Anthropologie, I wanted it in the worst way. The lace is gorgeous, but the style is a bit edgy, a must have if you ask me! But the price tag stopped me in my tracks. $728.00. Okay, it might be worth it with all of those gorgeous layers of lace, carefully sewn in place. But, hey, we can do that; am I right? Enter the Pattern Review Bargainista contest, just the motivation I needed to get it done! IMG_8867

I used Simplicity 1699 as my basic template for this dress.

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It’s a simple design, a peplum top or dress with raglan sleeves and a simple rounded neck line. Since, I’d made it before I knew it would fit me, freeing me to focus on the design elements I wanted instead.

First, even though the Anthropologie dress is one piece I saw it more as a skirt and top. So I split the dress at the bodice and added a waistband to make it a skirt.

Then, I started in on the bodice/top. I cut the lining pattern pieces first then cut corresponding pieces from the lace (contrasting pieces of white lace, purchased at Joanns.) and sewed them together. I wanted a v-neck, so I cut that too.

IMG_7326 Once I had the basic bodice constructed, I took little bits of lace and layered them over the first layers of lace, focussing on placing eye popping elements on the princess seams and neckline. Then, I finished the seams, added a zipper and hemmed the bodice so that it would be a top that could be tucked in or worn out.

IMG_1973By the time all that detail work was completed, I was ready for simple tasks. I was glad the process for the skirt was much easier. I just cut it from the lace, added a waistband, and lined it – phew!

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The process of layering the lace on the bodice/top took some time, but it was so satisfying. Deciding where the bits of lace should go was fun, and hand stitching them into place was a calming process. I often forget just how therapeutic hand stitching is!

The good news? My new dress/ensemble is close enough to the original that my credit card is no longer in danger of being used.

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  • Here’s how the costs broke down using the Pattern Review contest formula – – Column dress designed by Byron Lars for Anthropologie – – $728.00
  • 2.5 Yard Fabric for lining (top and skirt) – Joanns – $12.99 per yard on sale for $9.00 x 2.5= $22.50
  • white lace fabric; (3) 1/2 yard pieces for contrast on bodice front and back (1.5 yds total)  $6.99 X 1.5 = $10.48
  • Black Lace for skirt overlay 1.5 yards x 12.99 yard on sale for 9.00 = 13.5
  • 18” zipper for top – $2.99
  • Bits of lace for top embellishment purchased at a thrift store – $5.00
  • 7” zipper for skirt (invisible) $3.99
  • Total: 58.46
  • $728.00 – $58.46 = 669.54
  • $669.54 / $728.00 = .91969 =91.9 % savings

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There’s nothing like a Pattern Review Contest to get the creative juices flowing. Be sure to follow the link  to check out all of the entries – there are some amazing creations and some incredible Bargainista’s out there!

Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by!

McCall’s 7430: A Knit Dress for Spring

IMG_9618I made this knit dress for a trip we just took to Santa Fe, but there was snow on the ground when we arrived so this dress never made it out of the suitcase, LOL! Still, I love wearing knit dresses, so I know this dress will have its day.

The trickiest part of this dress was positioning the stripes across the bodice and the sleeves.

Let me tell you….It took alot of pins and patience to get the stripes in the right place as I inserted the sleeves, but in the end, the effort was worth it.

I’ve made this knit dress pattern before and it’s now one of my favorites. McCalls 7430 offers a few variations that makes it easy to modify to give each version a fresh look. You can use contrast fabric for the yokes and the sleeve crowns as I did, or you can cut the entire sleeve from the same fabric as the bodice, or even make it sleeveless. There are collar variations too – a raised collar or a simple neck-band (my choice).

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I love a pattern that gives you alot of options!

Challenges: There aren’t any side seams on this pattern.

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This makes fit a little harder to modify. Because I’d made this pattern before (here), I wasn’t concerned, as I’d already done a trial run. The good news is, the pattern is well drafted and for me,  the size dictated by my measurements was perfect.
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The success of this dress depends in large part on the knit, I think. The fabric must have some weight and body so that it will give the dress some shape. A thin lightweight knit wouldn’t work because it would be cling too much and would show every bump. I was lucky to find this medium weight knit at Fabric Depot. It has just the right amount of weight and crosswise stretch. It’s a rayon/cotton blend which will make it easy to wear as the temperatures rise.  Now, if the weather would just improve around here.

New Mexico stole my heart last week, and the brief sprinkling of snow only made the high desert seem more exotic. Here’s one of the sights we enjoyed as we hiked.IMG_9384

It was a great trip, but it’s good to be back at my sewing machine:).

Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by!

Two Cozy Knit Dresses for January

This Butterick pattern has shown up on alot of blogs since it was introduced in 2016 and I can see why. It’s fun to sew and to play around with! Since committing to the 2018 Ready-To-Wear Fast, I’ve also been committed to filling some significant holes in my wardrobe. Casual dresses to wear when it’s chilly and damp have topped the list.

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This sweater knit (fabricdepot.com) is perfect for this dress because it’s fairly dense and textured with a moderate crosswise stretch.

In contrast, this stretch terry is also cozy, but it behaves differently since it has less body and no texture, and a bit more stretch.IMG_7218

It’s always interesting to see how different knits can change the look and feel of a pattern! The side seams are an interesting detail of this design and I like how they show up with the contrasting fabric.

I was attracted to Butterick 6388 because of the cozy collar, the side seam detail and the in seam pockets.

 

It also has a shaped collar that overlaps and a back yoke. To give my striped version a bit of an athletic look, I added a contrasting sleeve band at the dropped shoulder seam before attaching the lower sleeve.

 

As far as sewing challenges, there were very few with this pattern. After comparing my measurements to the pattern, I concluded I needed a size small and the fit was pretty spot on. I did my usual narrow shoulder adjustment. The in seam pockets were easy to insert and I love how they’re given some definition with top stitching. There’s top stitching at the collar and back yoke too which makes the dress look polished. To insert the curvy back yoke, you do need to do a bit of stretching so making sure your fabric has some cross wise stretch. I also clipped the seams to make this easier. To make sure the collar isn’t floppy, a knit with some body and stability is important. This dress was really a fun, speedy make. I was able to cut and sew it in an afternoon, a plus if you ask me!

 

Both of these knits were so nice to work with! High quality knits are always worth the extra money in my opinion, because they’re easy to handle and wear.

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I’m not sure which version I like best, but when I wore the textured knit version out last weekend, my friends gave it a big  thumbs up. Which one is your favorite?

The athletic/leisure look is so popular right now, and this dress makes me feel like I’m following the trend, LOL! Obviously, I have a new favorite pattern here. Might have to make the shorter top version too. Do you have a favorite knit dress pattern? Please share!

Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by!

 

 

Tucks, Pleats, and Sewing through grief

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Hi all! It’s been a rough week around here. Dustin, our little buddy for sixteen years succumbed to renal failure last week. If you’ve visited here before, you may remember him from several photos. He loved to be in the middle of everything, and blog photos were no exception.

 

Such a character, and he always had something to say. He loved jumping on my sewing table and rolling around on the pattern pieces, hilarious! He was such a presence in our lives. Needless to say, his loss has been really hard.

Grief is such a miserable state to be in.  You want to get on with it, but you just can’t. Simple problems become hard. It wasn’t a week for big thoughts or new inspiration. It was a week for repetitve tasks, simple things. I found some comfort in the task of sewing pleats.

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Pleats are mindless, a bit tedious sometimes, but very calming to me. You just mark, pin, press and sew. It didn’t bother me at all that this Cynthia Rowley dress/tunic has forty pleats. But catch me at another time, and I might feel different!

I do love Simplicity 8414. Cynthia Rowley’s designs for Simplicity are always winners.simplicity-dress-cynthia-rowley-miss-pattern-8414-envelope-front

I wanted to make the dress with the ruffle, but then ran out of fabric so I settled for tunic length, which worked out quite well since the Pattern Review tunic contest is just winding down!  I might just get my entry in on time. My fabric is striped cotton shirting (Fabric Depot), that turned out to be perfect for this pleated design. The stripes became reference points that helped me to sew the pleats precisely. And there are alot of them! They give the sleeves their bell shape and the front and back bodice some fit that makes this dress flattering.

 

This pattern is time consuming, but not too hard. The trick is to mark the pleats clearly so that you can sew them precisely.  BE forewarned though. The fit of the dress is very loose. I cut an extra small and the fit is still roomy.  But to me, that’s what tunics are all about, comfort! My only complaint about this make is that the fabric wrinkles easily. Every time I move, another crease is born. I’m not entirely opposed to wrinkles, really. It’s just that sometimes you want to look crisp.

This is a fun pattern and it reminds me how much I enjoy sewing designs with pleat detailing. I can remember how taken I was once with the designs of Albert Nippon. Here’s a Vogue pattern he designed in the 80’s. Lots of pleats!

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Sewing as therapy….Do you find detailed sewing comforts you too?

Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by!

 

Black and White Polka Dots…so french!

IMG_9046 2I’ve been obsessed with shirt dresses this Spring because as dresses go, they have so many advantages! For one thing, the front opening makes them ideal to let in air on a hot day.

IMG_8872 2Also, they’re so versatile. You can add a pair of leggings /pants under them for a completely different look.

 

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My latest shirt dress is made from a lightweight rayon that drapes beautifully. I fell hard for it…a black batik print with little white dots on it (Fabric Depot). The batik process makes the dots uneven in places which gives the look a bit of an edge. And what’s not to like about black and white polka dots? They’re so french!

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I used my new favorite shirt dress pattern for this make, McCall’s 7351, also made here. I’m a big fan of the design details of this pattern including the high low hem, the french darts and the forward shoulder seams. I made a few modifications to this version; 

  • I eliminated the collar and added a v-neck opening, then drafted a facing for the neck.
  • The sleeves are ruched with a three inch piece of elastic.
  • I made a long tie from the fabric that is long enough to wrap twice around my waist. I prefer to wear a single wrap tie belt most of the time with really long ends. But on a busy day, the long tie can get in the way. In that case, I can double wrap the belt which make the ends shorter.

 

I think I’ll wear this dress alot, as it’s easy to dress up or down. I know when the temperatures drop again, I can slip it over leggings too, even though I might get a few strange looks when I do. What about you? Are you a fan of shirt dresses over pants/leggings?

I’m back from my trip and what a fabulous trip it was!! I found beautiful fabric stores in Lisbon, Evora, Porto and Barcelona. If only I’d had a bigger suitcase (and budget, LOL). I purchased a few lovely fabrics, most of them in Barcelona; some japanese cotton,rayon challis, tencel, double sided gingham gauze, an embrodiered cotton, and a lovely plaid linen.

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Yes, I love to travel, but it is good to be back to my sewing machine. Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by!

A travel dress in Barcelona

I always love seeing your ‘makes’ in action so I thought I’d do a quick post to show you my new favorite travel dress in Barcelona doing the hard job of keeping me comfortable and cool!

The double gauze I used for this version of Mccalls 7314 is the perfect travel fabric, crease resistent and easy to pack. The fabric is so lightweight it can be rolled easily and fit into a tiny space in my suitcase. A quick shake at my destination and it’s ready to be worn. Because gauze can fray,  I carefully finished my seams so that this dress could survive many washings . MCcalls 7314 is so easy to wear…I’ve made it before and I know I will again!

I am so fortunate to be here in Spain as part of a tour with my choir, Oregon Repertory Singers. Barcelona is so beautiful, and the people have made us feel so welcome, I never want to leave. There are amazing fabric stores here too…Nirvana! Eventually though, I will return home to my sewing machine with some beautiful fabric that will remind me of this city. In the meantime, Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by!

Shirt Dress Love: McCall’s 7351

IMG_6748 2If I had to choose only one garment to take with me to a desert island it would probably be a shirt dress, because they just make me happy. This one gets bonus points for being a rayon shirt dress, which is pure bliss to wear in any weather. What’s different about this dress for me, is the raspberry print. Raspberry, not blue? I know – – I’m living on the edge here!

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You see, a few weeks ago, I found an old ‘personal color palate’ from a color analysis I paid for several years ago. I’d completely forgotten about it, and the raspberry pink that was identifed as one of my ‘top five’ colors. It’s supposed to make me glow, LOL, yet I rarely wear it. I guess it’s never too late….

I get weak knees over high low hems and I love the one on McCalls’ 7351. In fact, it might be the reason this pattern made it into my shopping cart. You might have seen this pattern on other blogs because it’s so popular.

As patterns go, this fit me pretty well as designed, even though I’m petite. I did modifiy it a bit: I shortened the bodice by 5/8″. I also shorted the skirt by 5/8′ as well, being careful to preserve the cool curved hem. I also ditched the collar, using only the collar band just because I wanted a simple neckline given the print of my fabric. I also raised the sleeve tab placement a bit so that I could roll the sleeves up more when it’s hot, but I think I over did that a bit. I love the yoke and back pleat detail.

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This rayon came from Fabric Depot and it did not disappoint! It wears like a dream and has just the right drape for this dress.

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I think a fabric belt would look good with this dress, but I ran out, so I skipped it. The raspberry color is growing on me… I think I’ll enjoy wearing it.  In fact, now that I’ve found my long lost color analysis swatches, I could start taking them with me when I shop. However, I must admit, my fabric love is color blind. If I see a fabric I love that doesn’t match my palate, it will likely still find its way into my shopping cart.

Are you a color analysis believer, or do you buy what you like and call it good?

Yes, I do love shirt dresses and will likely make this dress again, soon. I’m imagining a linen version, maybe cotton poplin… Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by.