The Hvar Jacket from Itch to Stitch has been on my to-sew list for awhile because I’m crazy about cute easy-to-wear jackets. Not only are they adorable, but they help bridge the wardrobe no-man’s land between seasons. A light jacket can function as a layer under a heavy coat when the weather is severe, or it can stand alone when the day is fair. Best of all, a good jacket makes me feel stylish and put together! Chic and functional – – what could be better than that?
Even though I had the pattern and the fabric, I put off making the Hvar for quite some time. Because the lapel of this jacket is draped, I thought the sewing would be challenging. I could not have been more wrong. I mean, the Hvar has only four pattern pieces..simple and fast! If you never sewn a jacket before, the Hvar would be a great place to start. It’s designed by Itch to Stitch, and if you make one, I’m pretty sure you won’t be able to resist making another. It isn’t lined, but you can get a clean finish inside by serging the seams or using a hong kong finish ( I serged).
My first version was made with a light gauzy cotton. The pattern suggests lightweight fabrics and because of the draped collar, this is a must. The collar is a double layer of fabric so if your fabric is too heavy, it won’t drape.
The sewing is easy and the fit is forgiving. Shaping is made by long darts in the back and a bit of tapering at the side seams. To give my bodice a bit more of a curve at the waist I did increase the fish-eye darts a bit and took in the side seams as well.
My second version is from velvet.
Because I’ll be wearing this version in the winter and fall, I wanted to be able to close the jacket. I realized that if I cut the front lapels generously, there would be ample room to pull the jacket closed and add buttons.
The jacket looks a bit more structured this way, and I enjoy this variation alot. It’s cozy and warm. This fabric was a dream to sew and it’s heaven to wear…cotton velvet with just a bit of sheen.
Modifications: I shortened the jacket by a full inch. I also tapered the sides a bit more, and took a larger dart in the back bodice. I slimmed the sleeves too.
Now that I know how easy and fun the Hvar is to sew and wear, I’m imagining a knit version, a linen version, maybe even one in faux leather. The possible variations are endless. The only down side to this lovely jacket is that the lapels don’t always want to drape perfectly, but fortunately, the jacket looks okay with the lapels flat too.
This pattern is a definite keeper and I highly recommend it if you’re looking for a cute jacket that’s a quick sew!
With the cotton version of the Hvar, I’ve officially started my Spring sewing! I’m checking out Trench coat patterns right now, and am looking at the recent issue of the Burda Style magazine for inspiration. Lots of ideas churning in my head – It’s still cold out but I’m dreaming of fresh colors and light fabrics…Spring sewing!! How about you. Are you ready?
Happy sewing, and thanks for stopping by.
Oh, oh! The velvet one has my heart…love it!
And yes, I’m thinking of Spring sewing too 🙂
The velvet is my favorite too. If the weather warms up, I’ll tell myself, velvet isn’t just for Winter anymore.
That velvet is fabulous! Love the idea of the buttons. I’m not a fan of jackets and sweaters that don’t fasten close, at least a little bit.
Thanks! I’m. It a much of a fan of open jackets either. I’m so glad I figured out a work around for this one!
Love both of these!
Thanks, Faye!
Oh those jackets are amazing and the style is great. That velvet one is amazing!
Thank-you, Lori! I was so lucky to find that velvet in a little store in Boulder…I got the last bit in the bolt, clearly meant to be!
Beautiful jackets! I am always inspired by your makes and these are great. A winter and a summer.
Thanks for the lovely compliment, Fran! The best part is that they are so easy to sew:)
How much width did you add to the lapel to be able to add buttons and buttonholes? Really like that look!
I’m glad you like it! I added an inch to each lapel, but tapered off so that the collar was not wider at the neck. The lapel and collar are one piece, btw. Hope that helps!
I love your jackets. I was not aware of the ‘Itch to Stitch’ patterns. Thank you for your commentary of the way you adjusted the patterns to fit.
Thanks, Barbara. We’re so lucky as sewists to have so many pattern companies to choose from!
Great makes! How do you get along with unlined jackets? I have one and though I love the style (cropped biker jacket), every time I put it on over something with long sleeves, I really wish it was lined.
Thank-you!! Re: your question regarding unlined sleeves….I know what you mean. I’ve had that problem before and it’s so frustrating. For this jacket though, the character of the fabric has contributed with my satisfaction. The underside of the velvet has a polished aspect to it that makes it easy to slip over a cotton knit. On the cotton version, the sleeves are a bit loose (cut generously) so it also slips easily over my knit top. I think I will likely wear that with short sleeves rather than long, so it won’t be much of an issue long term. For me, unlined works best if the fabric has a bit of slipperiness to it, if that makes sense:)
I love your modifications and fabric choices. I’ve been looking at this pattern but wasn’t sure if it would work for me. Your versions have convinced me to take the leap. Have you found a Trench coat pattern yet? I recently purchased the Ulysses Trench by Victory Patterns and think it says ‘spring’ more than many others I’ve seen. It also has lots of great reviews. Happy sewing and thanks for sharing 🙂
Thanks, Kate! I’m still looking for a trench pattern so I appreciate the tip on the Victory pattern version…Happy sewing to you too!