Tag: shirt

July Making Journal: A Wiksten Haori, A Libby Shirt, a Peplum Top

Published on by ellegeemakes8 Comments

Although we’ve all felt the strain of the unknown over the past months, for me, there have been some positive things about the quarantine. I’ve truly appreciated the gift of time. It’s been lovely to slow down and savor making things. As Oregon gradually reopens, I hope I can resist the urge to rush!

Denim Wiksten Haori

When considering what to do with several old pairs of jeans, it’s probably no surprise that I reached for my well-used Wiksten Haori pattern. I do  love creating from scraps.

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 My last two versions are soft now and well worn (hereand here).

For this Haori, I mixed and matched the legs of several pairs of jeans, all from different colors of denim.

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To get enough denim for the front and back bodice, I cut pieces from the legs. I also ripped off pockets and added them to the front and inside of the jacket.

To tie it all together, I used white topstitching thread and double stitched where ever possible. For lining, scraps of soft chambray came in handy.  I hardly noticed the time as I ripped and cut and sewed. It’s a lovely weight, perfect for our cooler summer evenings. This will be one of my entries for #joinupjuly on instagram.

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Libby Shirt

This month, I enjoyed revisiting one of the older Sew Over It patterns, the Libby shirt. This easy button-up top is cropped and loose fitting for a modern look. I made both versions from rayon. Even though it’s easy to sew, the pattern has lovely details. I love the vintage collar and cute cuffs.  Rayon is a great fabric for this one. Since the fit of this top is loose, I cut the smallest size.

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McCalls 7052

My last make is a tried and true top that I’ve made so, so many times. It’s a easy-fitting top with a swing-y peplum, McCalls 7052 (also made here). I love this top because you can throw it on and feel put together, even though the style is relaxed and easy. This is project you can finish in an afternoon – -instant gratification! I’ve used different fabrics for other versions, but love the feel of it in rayon.

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The journal/diary format I’m using here on the blog today is new for me.  It seems to make sense when I’m reviewing makes I’ve sewn before. What do you think?

I hope you’re enjoying your sewing projects as much as I am these days.  Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by!

Sewing a Patchwork Shirt from Remnants

Published on by ellegeemakes16 Comments

If you’ve been sewing for as long as I have, you’ve likely accumulated a large stash of fabric remnants. I find it hard/impossible to part with the lovely leftover bits when I’ve finished a project, so my remnant stash is HUGE, and overwhelming. Recently, I decided to sort and catalog the pieces. That’s when I made a lovely discovery… the colors and textures all work together.

So I decided to use the pieces to make this shirt.

Pattern: For my project, I used a tried and true shirt pattern so that fit would not be an issue. McCalls 6124 has a back yoke, two piece sleeves, a collar band and princess seams…so many opportunities to explore!

Process: Because I patchworked both the front and back, I was able to use three types of shirting and three colors of linen, about a quarter of a yard of each. Sewing was easy as I’ve made this shirt a time or two.

The best part of this project was figuring out fabric coordination and placement. In fact, I enjoyed it so much, I had a ‘moment’ when I imagined myself as a quilter. (Just what I need…a new reason to accumulate fabric, LOL!!)

I’m pleased with my shirt and am so glad my remnant stash has shrunk a bit. The good news is my shirt works well with the denim skirt I made a couple of years ago, so I know it will be worn again and again.

Of course, I’ll still be on the look out for new ways to use my lovely leftovers, so if you have ideas…please share!

Although I’ve had a bit of a challenge easing back into sewing ‘post vacation’, I’m definitely inspired by the Fall colors here in Oregon. Our cool weather has me thinking about sweaters and jackets and coats…ideas are brewing! How about you?

Happy sewing, and thanks for stopping by.

The Saraste Shirt, my Me-Made-May Hero

Published on by ellegeemakes17 Comments

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When I completed the Saraste shirt, I wasn’t totally ‘in-love’ with it. In fact, I immediately pushed it to the far right side of my closet, the place where the ‘never to be worn’s’ go. It’s a sad corner and it makes me feel a bit guilty. It’s all the me-mades that were fun to sew, yet, when all was said and done, I couldn’t imagine actually wearing it.

That was the sad story of this recent reject, but everything changed when Me-Made May rolled around. This year, my pledge was a bit different. Since I already wear me-mades every day, I pledged to wear the ones that I abandoned, and try to analyze why. This is one of those makes.

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It might be the fabric that put me off. It’s a floral print and, when I purchased it, I thought it was a random print. When I laid it out on my cutting table, I discovered that there’s a strong repeat….pattern matching would be involved! Ugh. That discovery made me a bit cranky as I wasn’t sure I’d purchased enough fabric to make this work, but I managed to pull it off, carrying the pattern through on the sleeves and the back.

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I do love the fit of this shirt! The Saraste shirt is a pattern from Named Clothing’s book,  ‘Breaking the Pattern’.

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I’ve made several of the patterns in this book now (here), and they’ve all been fabulous. The Saraste shirt is one of my favorites with many elements I love: princess seams down the front, a back yoke, optional sleeves and a small collar that fits my short neck. The surprise detail is small cut- outs at the shoulder, which I love.

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They were a bit of a challenge though. My tip is to be sure to trace the pattern carefully, noting all of the markings accurately. I hadn’t done that and had to go back and add them in. Once I had that accomplished, it wasn’t too hard to make everything work. However, I’m a bit disappointed that the cut-outs don’t show that well in my print. I’m going to have to give this lovely pattern another try in a solid colored linen, so that those slits can shine!

My Me-made analysis – – I do love the print now, but at first glance, I wasn’t too excited about it in this shirt. However, I have worn it many times this month and have discovered that it goes with everything in my closet. The fit is perfect and the shirt is easy to wear. In fact, people compliment me when I wear it:)

Lesson learned…my first take on a make shouldn’t be my last.   IMG_6959

How are you doing with Me-Made May? Any new revelations?

Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by!

A wrap shirt from my first Japanese pattern book

Published on by ellegeemakes11 Comments

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A wrap shirt…Looks tricky, doesn’t it? Actually, it’s all in how the shirt is buttoned up!  If you want to, you button it up the traditional way.

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But why would you want to, when you can do this?

A simple modification makes the wrap possible. You add a loop to one side seam, a button to the other, and viola! You have a wrap shirt.

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I admit it. I bought my first japanese sewing book because this cute shirt was on the front cover. I just had to give it a try.

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I can’t tell you why it’s taken me so long to experience the world of japanese pattern books. Perhaps, it’s because I assumed the patterns would be hard. This book, Simply Sewn, written by Michiyo Ito, shows how wrong I was. It has a variety of patterns in them, none of them especially tricky, but all of them stylish and interesting. collage

 

I’m so intrigued by both the hooded jacket and the cropped polka dot jacket. Now that I’ve tried one pattern and loved it, those are next on the list.

To be sure, when sewing with a pattern book, there are challenges to be faced. You have to trace the patterns (ugh, but I am getting better at it), and you have to select your size, in this instance, either S, M, L, or XL. The sizing is a bit different than what you’d find in a Big 4 pattern, but there’s a chart and a thoughtful explanation of how to choose your size. You also must add a seam allowance, a easy detail to deal with. The good news…unlike some others, this book includes full size pattern pieces and the pattern markings used are straightforward.

IMG_5778Based on my measurements, I chose a size small, and found it to be perfect. There isn’t alot of ‘fuss’ to the instructions, which I often find confuses me more than helps. They were complete and easy to understand. With each style, there’s a pattern layout chart, and construction steps with a few diagrams. Everything was pretty straightforward on this pattern so I didn’t find any challenges. The sleeve is finished with a cuff, the button tab is folded fabric, and the collar is simply drafted and sewn in place.

I really love this book and the styles there, so there will likely be another japanese pattern book in my future. Here are a few I’m considering….

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There are so many to choose from, a huge new world of possibilities.  I’m so glad I took the leap and gave this pattern a try! I know I’ll wear this shirt constantly this summer, both wrapped and buttoned up.

Have you tried Japanese pattern books? Do you have a favorite?

Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by!

 

 

A Fall Top with Linen and Stripes

Published on by ellegeemakes12 Comments

IMG_4458We’re in full-on Halloween mode over here (skulls, ravens, you know….the usual). In a typical year, this would mean the season for linen tops would be long past. But in Oregon, our Fall has been extraordinarily warm, a fact that has kept me from moving my summer fabrics into storage.  This top is another remnant make – linen and striped cotton from my stash.   IMG_4489

 

This top is a modified version of Simplicity 8295, a dress or tunic that has alot of options for creating different looks. It has a front panel insert, and you can even add grommets and ties if you’d like.

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I love the shirt details of this top/dress pattern. The long sleeves have cuffs.

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I also like the yoke and back pleat.IMG_4485

Since I used the striped fabric for the insert, I decided to make the sleeves a combination of striped and solid fabric to carry through my theme, and also to make my fabric go further. I also modified the front neck opening. As designed it was cut even lower than my version…I actually raised it by a couple of inches to make it work. I also shortened the tunic length by 3″ .

It’s a really comfortable shirt that makes me feel put together because of the crisp shirt details. Now, I want to try this pattern in the dress length with contrast pockets I think.

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I love wearing this top…maybe linen isn’t just for summer? Medium weight linen has a nice softness that makes it feel almost…cozy. Do you sew with linen all year around?

Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by!

 

An Anthro Knock-Off

Published on by ellegeemakes16 Comments

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When I saw this top in the Anthropologie, I fell in love with the denim blue checks, the side tie at the hem. But when I tried it on, the neck was so big on me, it fell to my shoulders like a cold shoulder top. Not a good look! And the long sleeves covered my fingertips. But that side tie, the color…Well, this is why I sew and keep an extensive fabric stash. As luck would have it, I just happened to have the perfect fabric right at home! Stash justified!

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My version of Anthro’s shirt is a hack of Butterick 6456, a pattern I made before, here.

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I used view D, but modified the front bodice by elminating the pleat. Then, to get the side tie look, I added a drawstring to the hem. I folded up the hem by 5/8″ to make a casing for a skinny tie that I made from fabric. The length of the tie is 1/1/2 times the circumference of the hem. Once the tie was inserted in the casing, it added a slight gathering at the hem.

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The fabric is a special piece of linen that’s languished in my stash for a couple of years (+), purchased at the Pendleton Outlet store a few years back (a bargain at $3.oo a yard). I’ve  been saving it for the perfect project. It’s the sort of linen I’m mad about; crisp, but not rough, able to hold a press, but not stiff. To get the long look of the sleeves, I just added four inches to the length of the sleeve before adding the bell.

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I like my new top and think it’s worthy of my long cherished linen. An added bonus is that this top was a bargain compared with the Anthro version, as I spent only $3/yd on the fabric! I think this top came in at under $20. It’s a rare but cherished moment when sewing is cost effective, am I right?

Some of my photos were taken in my newly painted living room. My sewing machine has been ignored of late because we’ve been doing the painting ourselves. Yes, we could have hired pros to do it, but I’d rather spend money on fabric (!!).  Let me tell you, there was a collective sigh of relief at my house this week when this project was finished.

Next up on my fall wardrobe wish list is a denim jacket. I’ve always wanted to make one, and there’s no better time than now.  I’m perusing patterns….there’s the Maisa by Named and the Stacy Jacket by Style Arc to name a few. Any suggestions? Happy fall sewing, and thanks for stopping by!

 

 

 

Shirt Dress Love: McCall’s 7351

Published on by ellegeemakes22 Comments

IMG_6748 2If I had to choose only one garment to take with me to a desert island it would probably be a shirt dress, because they just make me happy. This one gets bonus points for being a rayon shirt dress, which is pure bliss to wear in any weather. What’s different about this dress for me, is the raspberry print. Raspberry, not blue? I know – – I’m living on the edge here!

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You see, a few weeks ago, I found an old ‘personal color palate’ from a color analysis I paid for several years ago. I’d completely forgotten about it, and the raspberry pink that was identifed as one of my ‘top five’ colors. It’s supposed to make me glow, LOL, yet I rarely wear it. I guess it’s never too late….

I get weak knees over high low hems and I love the one on McCalls’ 7351. In fact, it might be the reason this pattern made it into my shopping cart. You might have seen this pattern on other blogs because it’s so popular.

As patterns go, this fit me pretty well as designed, even though I’m petite. I did modifiy it a bit: I shortened the bodice by 5/8″. I also shorted the skirt by 5/8′ as well, being careful to preserve the cool curved hem. I also ditched the collar, using only the collar band just because I wanted a simple neckline given the print of my fabric. I also raised the sleeve tab placement a bit so that I could roll the sleeves up more when it’s hot, but I think I over did that a bit. I love the yoke and back pleat detail.

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This rayon came from Fabric Depot and it did not disappoint! It wears like a dream and has just the right drape for this dress.

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I think a fabric belt would look good with this dress, but I ran out, so I skipped it. The raspberry color is growing on me… I think I’ll enjoy wearing it.  In fact, now that I’ve found my long lost color analysis swatches, I could start taking them with me when I shop. However, I must admit, my fabric love is color blind. If I see a fabric I love that doesn’t match my palate, it will likely still find its way into my shopping cart.

Are you a color analysis believer, or do you buy what you like and call it good?

Yes, I do love shirt dresses and will likely make this dress again, soon. I’m imagining a linen version, maybe cotton poplin… Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by.

A White Shirt and Jeans: Classics Recharged

Published on by ellegeemakes18 Comments

IMG_5707I’m such a fan of wearing classics – jeans, button-down shirts, tee shirts to name a few, so it’s always fun when you see an updated classic that brings something new to the game.

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When I saw this white Vince Camuto shirt in the Nordstrom catalog, I just had to make a DIY version. It’s a classic redefined with bell sleeves. I love this version except for one thing. The Vince sleeves are a bit too long for me. They’d end up in my soup. So my DIY sleeves are a little shorter.IMG_5635

For the shirt, I used a tried and true pattern, Butterick 5526 (made here) and modified the sleeves. This shirt is one of my favorites because it has princess seams and fits well. 5526

I used a linen/cotton blend from Fabric Depot. It has just the right amount of body to support my bell sleeves. To make the bell, I used the bell off of another pattern, Butterick 6456 (made here). It was just my luck that the top of the bell sleeve on that pattern fit the shirt sleeve of B5526 perfectly! If it hadn’t, I would have tapered it slightly to make it fit.

IMG_5691 My jeans were inspired by the Nordstrom catalog too. I used the  Jalie Jeans pattern for my DIY version, and used stretch denim from Modern Domestic, one of the awesome fabric stores here in Portland. This is my second pair of Jalie’s so they went together without too much struggle. I did forget how to do the front pockets though. So I referred to a great tutorial on this blog, Jillie Be Joyful. It was so helpful! I kept the design on back pocket pretty simple this time.

IMG_5722 2To make the jeans straight legged, I tapered the pattern’s legs by using a ready to wear pair that I love to guide me. For a little variety, I added some of the raw jeans salvage to the hem as a border. It’s a popular look in ready to wear so I couldn’t resist giving it a try.

I like the fit of these jeans, but I’m a bit frustrated with the knees. As I took these photos, wrinkles started to appear. Grrr. I might make a pair of legging jeans next (maybe Mimi G’s version?) to see if that works better in the knees.

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DIY jeans are fun when you’re a top stitching maniac like me. I’m determined to get a pair with perfect fit though, so I’m considering ‘rubbing’ a favorite RTW pair to copy them. Have any of you ever tried that? Does it work? How about legging jeans? Do you have a favorite pattern?

Happy Spring sewing and thanks for stopping by!

Crazed by gingham!!

Published on by ellegeemakes6 Comments

If you stare at gingham for too long, do you go crazy? That’s what I asked myself as I completed yet another gingham top. My cat seems crazed if he stares at a fly for too long. His eyes gloss over and he starts to twitch. I’m sure I  had that same vacant look in my eyes as I stitched down the home stretch on this top!

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“Another gingham top?” you ask. “Why?”

The answer is simple. Blame it on Anthropologie. I took a quick spin down their aisles recently, and noticed that gingham was ‘having a moment’. After trying a few garments on, I became convinced I would die if I didn’t add some gingham to my wardrobe, because, honestly, those little checks just make me feel good! Gingham is a cheery fabric, don’t you think? Who can frown, when they’re dressed in gingham?

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When I found this lovely blue (!!) and white cotton at Fabric Depot, it seemed fated!  More gingham for me!

The pattern for this tunic/shirt is McCalls’ 6125, a princess seamed shirt pattern that I’ve used more than a time or two. I love princess seams. They’re flattering and, they make me look taller (…ummm, right?).

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I made View C as drafted with one exception. I added a sewn-in tie at the waist. Since my shirt is tunic length, adding a built-in tie seemed like a fun way to make this shirt stand out from the crowd of shirts that lives in my closet. Also, rather than have everything line up, I cut the side panels and the front placket on the bias to make them stand out.

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The ties were simple pieces to add. I just cut two (2) eight inch wide rectangles, each sixteen inches long. After finishing the edges of each tie, I inserted the ends into the side seams, lining the edges up with the bodice’s seam allowances, then closed up the seams. The tie as I drafted it is fairly wide. This makes it easy to cinch at the waist, or you can drop it a bit for a looser look. I love having the tie built into the shirt. That way, you can’t lose it!

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This McCall’s shirt pattern is one of my favorites. It has a front band, princess seams, hem slit openings, and collar variations. The instructions are very straightforward and easy to follow. It’s a nice basic pattern, that fits me well without any tricky modifications.

Believe it or not, it was over a hundred degrees today here in Portland Oregon. Yet I was comfortable in my light cotton shirt! This is a very good sign. Perhaps, this gingham top will become one of my ‘regulars’. After all, even Elizabeth Taylor wore gingham!

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As I finished this blog post, I did notice one ‘oops’ about my shirt. The buttons don’t line up perfectly. Not sure if this means the button holes are too big, or the buttons aren’t placed correctly on the placket or what? I struggled to mark this fabric accurately as it moved around a bit. Perhaps that’s where I went wrong? Thoughts?

Happy sewing! Thanks for stopping by!

Thursday Top: A Little White Shirt (Simplicity 1694)

Published on by ellegeemakes2 Comments
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By now, we’ve all heard of the LWD (Little White Dress), this Spring’s alternative to the Little Black Dress. But after a recent review of my wardrobe, I realized I needed a LWS, (Little White Shirt) in the worst way. Scary fact – – I have a million tees and more than a million dresses in my closet, but hardly any shirts. Why? Because I sew without a plan.
My sewing is inspired by many things: cool fabric, impulse buys, a great project I saw on someone else’s blog, an Ready-To-Wear item that I’m determined to ’sew for less’. But need? Never, a fact that has consequences. My wardrobe is a bit of a mash up. What to do? Sew!
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Given the fact that the temperatures are well above 90 degrees, I decided to use some very lightweight embroidered cotton in my stash to make a summer-friendly, white shirt that would work with a pair of shorts I never wear because they’re separates without a match.
I chose an embroidered, lightweight cotton from my stash that I found at Fabric Depot. As usual, when I found this fabric, I made an Impulse-Buy. So, I didn’t have quite enough to make what I really wanted, a shirt with rolled-up sleeves and tabs. Also, the fabric’s cool embroidery detail is on the fabric’s border, so laying out the pattern was a bit tricky (similar to the issue I had with my kimono), and I used more than I meant to. So, I was forced to use a different fabric for the yoke and pockets.
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I had a bit of white textured cotton, a remnant left over from another project, so I used that. In hindsight, having too little fabric might have been a good problem to have,  because the textured cotton makes the pockets stand out a bit more.
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The pattern: Simplicity 1694, a loose-fitting button down shirt with sleeve variations, collar variations and length variations. It was pretty easy to sew and the instructions were very clear.
The fabric: Lightweight cotton with a very wide embroidered border. I used vintage buttons I had in my stash.
Modifications: None! For once, it fit without any adjustments or changes. The sleeves are 3/4 length, but I rolled them up for the photos because it’s so hot outside.
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I think this pattern will become a Tried and True. I’d like to make it again, a longer version that can be tucked in, maybe in chambray with long sleeves.
Do you sew to fill a need in your wardrobe, or are you a bit random about the whole thing?
Stay Cool! Thanks for stopping by.