Vogue 9311: Playing Dress-up

My every-day wardrobe consists of easy-to-wear layers. But once I year, I have the opportunity to really dress-up. The choir that I sing with, Oregon Repertory Singers has an annual fundraiser where formal attire is required. I always look forward to the opportunity to sew and wear something special.

In past years, I’ve sewn cocktail length dresses, but this year, I wanted something different, so I decided to go ‘long’. Honestly, in all my years of sewing, I’ve only sewn a couple of long dresses. What?? I know!! If it isn’t time now, when will it be?  

For the pattern, I chose Vogue 9311, a long dress with optional sleeves and ruffle. I love the v-neck line and think that it gives the dress a look of elegance. I made the long sleeve version, but shortened them to 3/4 length. Instead of cuffs, I used elastic to gather the base of the sleeves. I wanted to be able to push them up and away from my dinner:). 

The biggest challenge with this make was the fabric. I love the look of this burnout velvet, but it really was tough to work with. The shimmer comes from shiny gold fibres that are woven into the spaces between the sections of velvet ‘burnout’ and they tended to snag. Also, the fabric frayed like crazy so I finished all the edges with my serger before sewing the seams. I purchased microtex needles which really worked nicely! 

Even though the pattern doesn’t call for a lining, I chose to line the bodice and skirt with solid black silk. This really helped give the skirt more body and structure. The lining was easy to create and gave the entire dress a nice finished feel. It’s so lovely to wear! The ties are meant to be worn in the back, but they were so long, I was able to play around with the look, and decided I liked them better in front. 

I’m pretty pleased with my new frock and absolutely love this Vogue pattern. It’s been in my stash for awhile, and I’m so glad I finally decided to make it. I can imagine a version for Spring, maybe in linen. I really enjoyed wearing this dress last weekend. It felt so elegant. The good news is that I’ll have another chance to wear it when we sing with the Oregon Symphony in April.

This project really marks the end of winter sewing for me. I’m really ready to sew up some of my lovely woven fabrics for Spring and Summer. How about you?

Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by!

Finding Violet and Vogue 9363

IMG_4895I’ve really enjoyed the #sew happy color challenge on Instagram. It’s inspired so many lovely posts by members of our sewing community! The premise of the challenge (created by @katiekortmanart) has been to explore combining complimentary colors in new ways. For me, it’s been an opportunity to look at the colors I love and to think about ways I can have more of them in my wardrobe and life.

This last week of #sewhappycolor features violet and blue. Blue…well, you all know how much I love that color (LOL). My wardrobe includes so many blue options, I could wear the color every day if I wanted. I love violet too, but my stash of fabric and wardrobe doesn’t really reflect that at all.

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So I took a trip to the fabric store, intending to buy a beautiful piece of violet fabric. Instead, I ended up with a print. It’s the scale of this one that caught my eye. The areas of solid black provide negative space that really allows the large violet flowers to pop. I really love this print….Hmmm, need/want more like this…

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Vogue 9363 is my pattern, new this Spring. I can’t resist a pattern with a front tie!  (see my other tie makes here, here and here)

Construction: Although the fabric recommendations include rayon and crepe (lots of drape), I chose Japanese cotton because I wanted the top to look more structured. It was such a such a dream to work with. It shapes beautifully and is a joy to press. The pattern is well drafted too. I cut my usual size and have absolutely no complaints about the fit. The curve of the front bodice seam gives it a unique drape, and the sleeves are easy as they are cut as part of the front and back bodice. There’s a zipper in the back and the loose fit is shaped by front and back bodice darts as well as the wide belt. It’s an easy top to fit and wear.

Changes modifications: I made the short sleeve version of the top/tunic. The pattern suggests the sleeves be finished with a machine hem, but since the print has a bit of a vintage vibe to it, I decided to add a rolled cuff to the sleeve with a buttoned sleeve tab. I really like the finished look of the rolled cuff on this generous sleeve.

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This lovely print has reinforced my love for violet. I’m hoping there will be more of this happy color in my future. For more inspiration and information about complimentary colors, check out Katie’s blog…it’s a wealth of information very enthusiastically presented. #Sewhappycolor was such brilliant idea – – Thanks Katie! Have you all enjoyed #sewhappycolor too? Any new revelations?

Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by!

A Vogue Vintage Jacket in Plaid

IMG_9618 2 Hi all! I’m back from a bit of a holiday break with a plaid jacket, inspired by one I saw in Vogue pattern Magazine. If you’re like me, you look forward to each issue of the Vogue Pattern magazine because there is always something there that will spark an idea for a project. This issue was one of my favorites as it was all about PLAID.

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Love the plaid coat on the cover!! Inside, a vintage Vogue jacket caught my eye, and I knew I’d have to make my own version.

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It’s hard not to love a good Vintage Vogue design! Vogue 9082 is especially appealing because it has a cute cropped jacket.

 

I made my jacket from a plaid I found at the Mill End Store here in Portland on my usual Fall visit there. I’m always on the lookout for classic but fun plaids, and, as usual, they did not disappoint. This fabric is really lovely in person; photos don’t do it justice. It has a bit of olive green and gold in it, and it’s so soft, a blend of wool and acrylic. I was lucky enough to get the last two yards on the bolt.

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Challenges: The pattern is pretty straightforward and pretty easy, but hey, I had to complicate things by making mine from plaid. It was a bit of a challenge to lay the pattern out because the sleeves are cut as part of the bodice. This means you must be sure that you place the plaid on the bodice carefully because that line follows down the sleeve. The good news is…because you don’t set in the sleeve, it means you get to avoid the whole sleeve to bodice matching ordeal, The bad news…the wrong placement could mean you’d have plaid sitting awkwardly on your shoulder. My plaid was large so a mistake would be glaring but I think it worked out well. By the way, my success rate with matching plaid has increased considerably since I started using Wonder Clips to hold things in place while cutting and sewing. s-l640

I love these things so much! Just posting a photo of them makes me want to buy a zillion more. You can find them at Joann’s, at craft stores, on Amazon. They are so useful and all the colors….I could go on and on!!

More about the challenges – – those collar points!!  From the line diagram, it appears that the collar is designed to look a bit more angular and pointed than in my version. Not sure why, but mine aren’t quite as dramatic as I expected. I think the error happened when I cut the bodice. When I inspected the pattern pieces later, to my surprise, I’d cut the collar points as I expected them to be, rather than how they were. Perhaps it was because I was binge watching Outlander. Blame it on Clare and Jamie.

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I think the cropped style works best with my highwaisted denim skirt (made here). It would probably work with jeans too!

Future posts and plans….

The holiday season is in full swing around here. It’s my favorite time of year because I get to sing in several Christmas concerts with my choir, which is such a privilege and joy. It also means I’ll be sewing a few fun EASY gifts for friends…Curious if you are too?  My next post will probably be about that. In other news, the year is coming to an end, as is the 2018 RTW fast and I’ve been thinking alot about that experience and what it’s meant to my sewing journey so I’ll share those thoughts too. Then, of course there will be a hits and misses post for 2018. So much to talk about!

I hope you had a nice holiday with family and friends. Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by!

 

 

 

 

 

A Floral Wrap Dress for Fall

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Fall sewing means dark florals, plaids, heathered wools…it’s all fabulous to me! The weather has turned a sharp corner here in Oregon. Yesterday was wet and blustery, a perfect day to stay in and sew. I knew exactly what I wanted to make. Wrap dresses have been on my mind since my trip to France. They were everywhere in Paris, on the women and in the stores, and most were made from rich, vibrant florals.

 

  1. Sezane 2. Anthropologie 3. Anthropologie

Fortuantely, I had the perfect Rayon challis in my stash, purchased at Mill End store last fall.

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I used my trusty wrap dress pattern, Vogue 9313 (also made here).

 

 

I love this pattern because it comes with separate pattern pieces for A, B, C, and D cups. Before I met this pattern, wrap dresses and their bodice closure always challenged me. rI could never get them to stay closed without gaping. I believe this happened because my cup size (small) is not in proportion to my hip size, as drafted by most pattern companies. In any event, Vogue solved my problem with this pattern!

Other things I love – – the width of the front band and skirt bands are wide enough (some I’ve tried are not, a pet peeve of mine.) I also love the back yoke, a nice detail that adds a bit of style and a lovely fit.

One big change I made: I redrafted the skirt. The skirt options are a big ‘circle’ skirt or a pencil. I wanted something in between, a ‘a-line’ style, a skirt with some movement, but not a full skirt. So, I took the pencil skirt and redrafted it as a-line, (I widened it gradually on the side and at the front) placing the darts as they were on the pencil skirt option.  I also straightened the angled front where the skirt overlaps, just because I like a skirt that stays closed easily when it’s windy and cold. The other construction detail I changed is that I didn’t slip stitch the front band facing down (all that handstitching made no sense to me). I secured it with my machine by first finishing the front bodice and skirt band’s edges with my serger. Then, folded the edge over, pressed, then ‘stitched in the ditch’ to hold the facing in place.

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Most of the dresses I’ve been eyeing in RTW are midi-length this season, so I hemmed this a bit longer than I usually do. I can’t wait to find some yummy boots to wear with it…shopping now!

Florals have never been my thing, but I can sense that is changing. I actually bought some Liberty cotton while traveling and I really love it. So expect to see a few more florals in my future posts. I’m glad I gave this floral a try – I know I’ll wear this dress constantly this winter with tights, and boots and with a long sweater thrown over it!

Mitchell likes to be in photos…what can I say?

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Here, he was my helper, showing me that my bootie wasn’t zipped up. Handy guy to have around!

Fall sewing plans? Mine are evolving. I’m really into plaid and have been imagining a plaid button up skirt, and a cape or jacket. I wear my denim shirtdress (here) alot in the Fall, and I have an urge to add a new one to my wardrobe. I’m also pretty inspired by the lovely trench coats I see everywhere. I want to try to make one (a first!) but, I still haven’t found the perfect pattern. As the plan develops, I may do a post about inspirations and patterns, which I’ve never done before. Thoughts and advice is appreciated.

Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by!!

 

Vogue 9313: Ruffled wrap dress

IMG_4968We’re experiencing a heat wave in Oregon, and the humidity is so high, my hair flips and frizzes, no matter what I do :). When it’s this hot, only a cotton dress will do, and this wrap dress is perfect for these sweaty days.  I became a fan of wrap dresses when I made this one last year. It was so cool in high summer.

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My pattern is Vogue 9313, a wrap dress with lots of “easy” options.  It has custom fit options with A-D cup sizes so it’s pretty easy to get the fit right. I modified the pattern a bit after trying on this dress at Anthropologie.

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  1. I re-drafted the shape of the full skirt to make it take out a bit of the fullness. (Too much fabric makes me hot in the summer). Also, I modified the two front skirts by rounding them into a tulip skirt shape so that it would work better with a ruffle.

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2. Instead of finishing the skirt fronts with bands as the pattern suggests, I added a 3 inch ruffle to each skirt front where the band would be and extended the ruffle into the hemlines as well. The ruffles are folded strips of fabric that are 1 and 1/2 times the length of the skirt fronts and hems. I gathered each ruffle with a long stitch then sewed them to the skirt fronts with a 5/8 inch seam.

4. I eliminated the front and back waist bands and lengthened the front and back bodices by two inches to make up for it.

5. The sleeves were too wide for me, so I added a tie instead of a hem. I cut a 4″ opening in each sleeve to accomodate the tie, then finished the openings with narrow hems. For the tie,  I cut a narrow strip (5″) of fabric that was two times the circumference of the sleeve. I attached it to the sleeve hem as though it was a sleeve band or cuff.

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I came pretty close to my goal with this make. It’s casual and comfortable but can be dressed up with a few good accessories. This cotton fabric from Fabric Depot is perfection. It has a bit of texture, but isn’t too heavy so it drapes really well and doesn’t seem to wrinkle much. Another travel dress?? Hmmm – – time will tell. I’ll know after I wear it a bit more.

Cotton and linen are my go to fabrics in the heat – and I wear dresses all the time. My Kalle shirt dress is in heavy rotation right now. What do you prefer to wear in the heat?

Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by.

 

About the Jacket my Husband Hates

 

IMG_5308Hi All – – My husband is usually quite generous with compliments when I finish a make. But this coat got a strong, very negative reaction out of him! It caught me so off guard, I had to run to my girlfriends for reassurance. Yes, this coat isn’t the classic style I usually gravitate to, but I can’t always wear or sew the same old thing, am I right? That’s why I was drawn to this coat’s interesting hemline, and of course, that’s the detail, that makes my husband squirm.  IMG_5481It reminds me a bit of this Burberry wrap coat I saw on line.

 

 

3f6f53dc9543ab57b9f395117c3a8a2ef7b45d0cOf course, the challenge of this make was the plaid matching, made even more so by the fact that I have not changed my ways when it comes to buying fabric. I tend to buy on the short side….and that’s really crazy when the fabric is a plaid. When will I learn? Because I was short on fabric, I had some panicky moments as I tried to get the sleeve plaid to match the bodice plaid, but eventually, it worked. And let me tell you, after all that work, there’s no way I’m going to let one man’s opinion keep me from wearing this coat! Ha!

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The pattern is Vogue, 9037, a double breasted style. The lovely wool is from the Mill End Store here in Portland. They have a fabulous wool selection…I feel so lucky to live close to them! The wool is a loose weave so I decided to line it with silk. This makes the coat so yummy to slip into. The pattern is easy to fit and sew. It doesn’t have darts or a complicated collar, and the shape is created by long tucks in the front and back bodice.

The pattern is out of print now…which is a shame if you ask me. This pattern has three easy collar choices and it’s a dramatic style so why not keep it around forever? I’m not sure how they decide when a pattern goes out of print, but some of the decisions completely baffle me. In this case, I’m not sure the envelope illustration did it justice, so maybe folks didn’t buy it? Who knows…

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Okay, so the style isn’t a classic, but it is fun, don’t you think? Maybe the shaped hem and interesting collar make this coat qualify as a…. statement piece?

Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by!

Remnant Busting Tops Inspired by Anthro

Peplum tops are still in style! I swear it’s true. Just when I thought they were ‘out’, Anthropologie added a category under ‘tops’ called ‘peplums and swing tops’. That’s where I found this inspiring photo.4112368730007_041_b2

What caught my eye was the fact that the bodice fabric did not match the peplum. In fact, it’s not even in the same color family. So easy, and cute! That photo inspired me to dig through my remnant stash.

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This one has a sweatshirt fleece bodice and a cotton jersey sleeve with a rayon jersey peplum. As luck would have it, the black dye used in those two mismatched jerseys was a close match. I used some random black ribbing in my stash for the neck. I managed to squeeze the bodice out of a little over a half yard.

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This off-white version is a ponte knit bodice with a ribbed knit skirt, cuffs and neck. I made it specifically to go under this cardigan sweater (posted here) which matches the boots I bought in Spain this summer. IMG_3682

The pattern is one I’ve made before, Vogue 9056. It’s a pretty quick make ( a couple of hours if you’re comfortable with sewing tops).  I modified it as follows – –

  • Added 4″ in length to the bodice (it’s still pretty cropped),
  • Added a 3″wide neck band at the neck.
  • Added 4 ” ribbed cuffs on the off white version.
  • Raised the neck opening by 2 inches (it was just too wide on me.) IMG_3835

It’s hard to see in all the photos, but an interesting thing happened when I stretched the ribbing to attach the skirt to the off-white ponte knit bodice. It had an interesting effect on the ribbing that makes the stripes look sort of….artsy?  It was an accident but I like how it looks, although I do think I prefer the black version.

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Remnants are something that most sewers have a philosophy about. I have rules about mine. If I have a piece that is 1/2 yard or more when I finish a project, and I really love it, I’ll keep it for one year. If it’s still around at that point, it goes to the donation bin.  I have alot of remnants right now though, so not sure if my rule is working (LOL!!). I’m curious how others manage their remnants – toss or keep?

Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by!

DIY Date Night Dress

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After I made a swing dress for the Day and Night Dress Challenge, I knew there would be another in my future. What is it that makes a swing dress so fun to wear?!? For me, it’s the way the skirt moves. It’s not quite ‘twirl-worthy’, but fun just the same.

This dress is another attempt to fill in a hole in my wardrobe. The ‘dress up’ category is woefully lacking. So, now I have another ‘date night’ outfit and I used up some of my stash too! This fabric is so yummy; a black ponte knit that’s embellished with a  silvery rose lace pattern. I knew it was destined to be used in a garment that had simple lines so that the interesting fabric could take center stage.

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I do like to combine laces and patterns and textures from time to time just for the fun of it, so I enjoyed mixing and matching laces here. I used a very airy lace from my stash for the yoke and sleeves, then a silver embroaidered lace for one of the contrasting yoke bands. I also added a yoke band of solid velvet to add some contrast to all of the patterns and textures in the lace.

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This dress is a mash-up of a couple of different patterns, Vogue 8817 for the yoke and contrasting yoke bands, and Vogue 8952 (view B) for the swingy bodice. The reason I used two patterns is that I know that the bodice of Vogue 8817 has too much volume for my frame, so I used the bodice of 8952 to draft my a-line bodice.

I did a bit of the high-low thing on the hem to give it a bit more swing. I also lined the bodice with stretch satin so that it won’t cling to my legs. For even more contrast, I made very narrow velvet cuffs for the sleeves.

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I love the fun, flirty shape of this dress. It isn’t too serious, if you know what I mean. Lots of party dresses are a bit too fussy for me, but this one is simple enough to let me be free to party!

I’ll say one thing though. That yellow cat better not think he can lay on it. Those claws would absolutely destroy it.

img_2214Okay, I might be finished with swing dresses for a bit now :). My only concern with this dress is that I might have overdone it here a bit with the lace mash-up. I’ll probably wear it all the time anyway!

I’ve been eyeing my closet, and evaluating. I realize now that some of my makes from a couple of years ago aren’t getting worn enough to justify the space they take in my closet. Some of the fabrics are lovely though, so I might give refashioning a try, although I’ve very little experience doing this. Have you refashioned older makes to keep that fabric in your life? How have you gone about that?

Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by!

 

DIY: Philip Lim Inspired Top

 

img_2016Hi all! The inspiration for this stash-busting top was a Philip Lim creation I saw at the San Francisco Saks a couple of weeks ago. It’s so fun to wander around in that amazing store, a real treat for me since we don’t have a Saks here anymore (wah!). But when I saw this top it was instant ‘love’. The bold plaid, the color blocked side panels, the contrast trim and stitching, I wanted it all. But alas, the price tag….

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So, I set about making my own version. The good news? I used left over remnants from my recent Day Dress, and another plaid from a top I made years ago. So no new money was spent in the making of this top.

img_2040The pattern I used for this make is a tried and true: Vogue 9054.

It’s out-of-print but still available on their website and on Etsy. The design detail that makes this pattern the perfect choice for my Philip Lim top is that it has a front panel. So, that’s where I placed my cotton plaid. I used a contrasting off white knit for the side panels. Even though this pattern is designed for knits, my inspiration top combined knits and wovens, so I went out on a limb and did the same thing. I think the loose design of this top made that combination less risky than it otherwise would have been. The fit really didn’t change. I also added a contrast band to the collar and cuffs.

img_2020A detail I love on the inspiration top was the stitching on the front and back panel seams. To get that look, I top stitched those seams with a decorative stitch. I wanted to use the flat lock stitch on my serger, but alas, it just wouldn’t behave. My substitute stitch isn’t quite as stunning, but I still like it.

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I especially like the way Vogue designed the hemline of this top. There’s a bit of a high-low thing going on there that’s fun.

img_2002Well, I think my top will work as a reasonable substitute for the Philip Lim top, and wearing my DIY  version will save me from spending hundreds of dollars I don’t have. I rarely think that sewing saves money, but when it comes to designer fashions, it has a very strong edge. Thanks to Philip for the inspiration! The colors of this top make it a seasonal transition item, I think, and I feel almost Springy as we persevere through another ice storm with freezing rain. Ugh!

I’m glad I used some fabric from my stash here, because my goal this year is to reduce the size of  my stash (yes, I used bold font so I won’t forget, LOL). Lately, I’ve been feeling like I have to ‘sew to my stash’, if you know what I mean. I often buy fabric with a project in mind, but by the time I get to it, my enthusiasm for it has waned or the inspiration is gone. That means my stash is huge, and it means my sewing is often motivated by the guilt that comes with excess. It overwhelms and confuses my creative urges (yes, I’m a junkie). So, my goal is to sew some of it ASAP and give some to friends or charity so that it doesn’t weigh me down. What do you think, fellow fabric junkies? Will this strategy work? 

Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by!

 

The Reveal: Day and Night Dress Challenge

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img_1209Hi all – – I’m pleased to be showing you my dresses as part of the Day and Night Dress Challenge Blog tour. Thanks to Elizabeth of Elizabeth Made This for this challenge. What better way to jump-start our sewing after the holidays! There’s a blog tour and a community challenge so check it out for some inspiration. You’ll find a list of the bloggers that are participating and links to their sites at the end of this post.

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My Day Dress: 

img_1004I’d wear dresses every day if I had enough of them! Dresses are perfect for everything a day can dish out: running errands, a business meeting, or (!!) happy hour. But to me, a day dress just has to have pockets. I feel weird if I don’t have somewhere to stick my hands! That’s why I picked McCalls’ 7464 for this make. It has curved pockets, a design element that mimics the line of the curved inset.The pockets were lined, but very easy to sew. The challenge was cutting and placing them on my plaid woven cotton. There’s nothing like a plaid matching challenge to test your determination!

img_1027I love how the curved insets add shape at the waist. I used a solid ponte knit for the insets and the sleeves so that it would provide a calming contrast to the busy plaid. The ponte knit, although stable, has a teeny bit of give, and since it’s placed at the waist, this means this dress is really comfy.

McCall’s 7464 is a pretty easy pattern to put together, yet it has a lot of fun detail.

 I modified the design only slightly. I added a short knit collar to give my dress a more casual look, and finished the sleeves with a narrow knit cuff too. I know I’ll wear this dress a lot.

My Night Look

img_1196I’m crazy about lace (as if y’all didn’t know that!), and when I saw this black lace at the Mill End Store, it was love at first sight. For the challenge, our night dress needed to be black, so I knew I’d use the lace as part of that look.  I decided to make a simple, unfussy dress so the lace could shine.

img_1184I paired the lace with black velvet, because, well…it’s velvet! To make the dress, I lengthened one of my favorite top patterns, Vogue 8952.

I like the Raglan sleeves on the top, and thought they’d look interesting in lace.img_1177 I love Swing-y dresses when I go out, because they have a dressy-vibe, without being fussy. To get the swing look of this dress, I extended the a-line of the top pattern by 8″. Then, I added an 8″ border of lace to the hem. I didn’t line the lace border, because I like the see through quality of the lace. With black hose/tights, I hope it’s not too revealing, just dramatic?  I know this LBD will get a lot of use.

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The Day and Night Dress Challenge blog tour is a great way to visit some new blogs and find some inspiration for your own makes. Thanks to Elizabeth for putting this together for us all to enjoy! There’s a community challenge too, with cool prizes and great sponsers. You can find the details on Elizabeth’s blog, Elizabeth Made This.

THE DAY AND NIGHT DRESS CHALLENGE BLOG TOUR SCHEDULE:

Sunday, Jan 8th: Elizabeth of Elizabeth Made This, Brittany of Brittany J Jones

Monday, Jan 9th:  Maria of How Good is That?,  Tonya of Sew So Petite

Tuesday, Jan 10th: Je’Tua of Robertswife, Meg of Cookin’ and Craftin’, Melanie of Its Melanie Darling

Wednesday, Jan 11th:  Linda of Elle Gee Makes, Tee of Maggie Elaine

Thursday, Jan 12th: Bianca of Thanks I Made Them, Daniela of On the Cutting Floor

Friday, Jan 13th:  Melissa of Mahlicadesigns, Rachel of Sew Redy, Renata of Runnningnstyle, Sonja of Sewing ala Carte

Saturday, Jan 14th: Doja of Elewa blog, Judith of Judith Dee’s World, Tanya of Mrs. Hughes

Check them out! If you decide to make a dress, I’d love to know so that I can feature your dress (s)  in a post here.

Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by!