Category: Drop shoulders

Four Linen LB Pull Overs

Published on by ellegeemakes4 Comments

Even though I didn’t post photos during Me Made May, I’ve been taking stock of my me-made wardrobe. To my surprise, my Spring wardrobe includes 4 linen LB pullovers! What’s even more surprising, is that I’ve never written a blog post about one of my favorite patterns. It’s time to rectify that situation.

If you’re unfamiliar with the LB pullover by Paper Theory, here’s a quick run down. It’s a loose-fitting top that is suitable for wovens or knits. It has drop shoulders and long sleeves which you can modify to any length you want. There are two neck finishes, a turtleneck version or crew neck. I love this pattern because the look changes with your fabric choice. Also, it’s fun to hack!

My first linen version was simple.

This is a straightforward, out of the box version from lightweight linen (Josephines fabric.) Instant love. Immediately, I cut another in a lightweight linen (from Britex).

This time, I cropped the bodice by 6 inches and added a 8 inch peplum. To figure out how wide to make the peplum, I measured the width of the fabric at the bottom of the bodice and multiplied that by 1 1/2. Then I gathered the peplum using long stitches before stitching it to the shortened bodice. So easy! I love the loose fit of this version.

I used a remnant in my stash for this violet colored version. I absolutley love the soft feel of this linen. I cropped this version a bit, shortening the bodice by three inches. The sleeves are 3/4 length and I love to roll them up. I used the turtle neck pattern, but took a 1.5 inches off the width. This top is so easy to wear. It’s in heavy rotation.

This last version is color blocked with two linen remnants.

When the weather is hot, this hankerchief linen version is my favorite. It’s so great to work with a pattern that looks so different based on your fabric choice. I have two more LB pullovers on my cutting table, this time in knit fabrics. More on those in another post.

I hope you are well and happy during this strange, challenging time. I am grateful for the joy sewing brings and for our fabulous community of makers. Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by!

 

 

#sewjapaneseinjanuary times two!

Published on by ellegeemakes16 Comments

You probably won’t be surprised to hear that I’ve been inspired by yet another Instagram sewing challenge! January in Oregon can be pretty dull and gray, so I’m often tempted to turn to Instagram for a bit of stimulation. Last month, the #sewjapaneseinjanuary challenge caught my eye. So, I dove into my pile of long neglected Japanese pattern books. Here’s one of my favorites.

Although some japanese pattern books are translated into English, wouldn’t you know, this favorite by Asuka Hamada is not!! No matter….we’re up the challenge, eh? Asuka Hamada’s designs are well worth the effort….chic without being too complicated.

Of course, when you sew from a Japanese pattern book, you have to trace the pattern…sigh. Well, here’s the good news. Now that I’ve done this a few times, I can honestly say, I actually enjoy the process. It’s sort of….meditative. For me, the concentration required to pattern trace is a lovely distraction! It’s like putting a jigsaw puzzle together…you have to be completely absorbed in the process or it just doesn’t happen. Here is the pattern I chose, a simple shirt with really great sleeves.

Since I don’t understand Japanese, the illustrations guided me.

Sewing from line drawings was simpler than it looks. It was freeing in a way and the process went faster too. Honestly, I may never read the pattern instructions again…LOL.

The shirt is slightly oversized which makes it great tucked into a pencil skirt or worn loose with jeans. My fabric is a lovely linen purchased at Bolt fabric. I enjoyed sewing this shirt so much, I had to make another version (minus the collar) from a linen cotton blend.

This Spring and summer, this shirt will be in heavy rotation with the striped linen skirt I made last summer.

Well, now that I know language isn’t really a barrier to trying new pattern books, who knows what will happen!? Maybe I’ll have to add another shelf in my sewing room for some new Japanese pattern books, eh? If you have any favorite pattern books…please share. I’m in the mood for a shopping spree.

Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by!

First Make of 2020: Another Cocoon Coat

Published on by ellegeemakes26 Comments

Happy New Year! This is my first make of 2020 and I am happy to say it was a success. It’s always good to start a new year with a project that you love.

I’ve made the Coccon Coat before (see it here), based on a version Sew Over It released as part of Lisa Comfort’s magazine. Now they’ve released it as a PDF pattern, available on their website (I received a free copy as a Pattern Insider). I loved the pattern so much the first time, I had to give it another go!

There are many things to love about this pattern. The cocoon shape of the coat is modern but classic. There are two piece sleeves and two pocket options. I chose the welt pockets, which can be challenging, but with their in-depth instructions made it seem easy.

Pattern Construction and Modifications: The Cocoon Coat is meant to be worn open, but that just isn’t an option that works very well in Oregon. So, I extended the front lapels by an inch and added hidden snaps to secure the opening. It changes the look of the lapel and collar a bit from the intended design, but I still like the look, and it makes it much more wearable for me. My coat is made of a good medium weight wool (Millendstore) and lined with silk from my stash.

Construction of this coat is a breeze. The lines are simple so there aren’t any tricky fit issues to resolve. I think the Cocoon coat would be a good option for someone who has never made a coat before.

2019 was a pretty successful sewing year for me with 39 blog posts:). It seems as though the number of sewing blogs has thinned out a bit in response to the growing presence of Instagram and the option to post quickly and often. I understand that, but I quite like the longer format of a blog post and the chance for a more detailed discussion. So, in 2020, I’ll continue to post here too. Thanks for reading and for keeping me company here.

Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by!

McCall’s 7780; A cold shoulder top for Fall

Published on by ellegeemakes12 Comments

IMG_6450It took me awhile to fall in love with this new pattern by McCall’s. The cold shoulder style put me off at first. I thought I was over that look, but this summer, I’ve discovered that the cold shoulder tops and dresses I made last year (here,  and here and here) are the ones I reach for time and again. The style is perfect when hot days turn to cooler evenings. IMG_6486There are design details I really like about this pattern – – the sleeves cut into the bodice, the flounce detailing on the bodice, the off-the-shoulder look, the wide shoulder straps. I’m not particularly found of the front and back bodice seam, although I didn’t think much about that until I started to cut my fabric. Because my fabric had a horizontal print, I had some pattern matching in the front which I hadn’t planned for. Thankfully, I did have enough fabric!

McCall’s 7780 has so many fun options. You can make the top with straps that tie, you can add a front flounce or a sleeve flounce, or make the top without any flounces at all. I love the solid white on the pattern envelope, but since I have more than my fair share of white tops, I chose to use a rayon print instead (fabricdepot.com). I made version C with the straps of view B without the ties. I’m not wild about ties at the shoulders as they tend to tickle and annoy me.

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Construction challenges:

  • As I mentioned, the front and back center seams required pattern matching…I barely pulled this off.
  • The sleeves are cut into the bodice so their shape is created by folds in the fabric. If your fabric is too stiff, the sleeve folds might look too distinct and the openings for the cut shoulder could lack the soft drape they need to look right.  A soft linen, or rayon or silk would be perfect. Also, I have narrow shoulders and the shoulders fit me perfectly. If you have broad shoulders, I’d do a tissue fit or muslin to make sure they won’t be too tight.

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Besides those challenges, I found the construction of this top, easy and straightforward. I love the style and am glad I finally fell in love with it. It’s the perfect date-night top, or for a lunch out with a friend. The length of the sleeves makes it comfortable on a cool evening too – – great to wear as we transition into Fall!

 

I usually start my Fall sewing mid way through August, but our weather has been so warm, I’m still inspired to make warm weather clothes. Perhaps, I should be cutting into heavier fabrics, but it’s hard for me to sew something I can’t wear right away….not sure if I’m the only one? I love a bit of instant gratification, I guess. So, until the weather changes, I remain a linen/cotton/rayon obsessed seamstress! How about you?

Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by!

A Knit Anorak in Two Hours or Less

Published on by ellegeemakes2 Comments

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It’s June, and I would love to say that this make is out of season, but it’s still layering weather here in the Pacific Northwest. When summer does arrive, it usually lands pretty hard though, so I’ll be breaking into my stash of linen this month! But for now, I’m craving soft warm cozy layers for afternoon errands and evening walks.

I titled this post – – in two hours or less because that’s an accurate reflection of how long it took to make this fast and easy jacket from Butterick.IMG_2639 2

This project was easy in part because I used double faced knit (Mill End Store).  LOVE IT!! The contrast hood and cuffs were created by the lovely lining on this knit.

They aren’t kidding when they say that Butterick 6394 is Fast and Easy! This pattern is simple and well-designed pattern; a good base for creativity and embellishment.

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I really wanted my knit jacket to feel more like a anorak than a ordinary sweatshirt so I modified as follows:

  • I added deep four inch cuffs to the long sleeves so that they could be folded back.
  • I added four buttons to the front closure. It’s meant to just meet at the front, but, because this is a very loose fitting jacket, it was easy to overlap the front to make it a button up jacket.
  • I added a drawstring waist, using seam binding on the inside and black cording.
  • I added deep pockets to the side seam.

Even with those modifications, this was a quick sew, made possible in part by the fact that the drop shoulders and the easy collar-less hood.

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I can guarantee, this jacket will be in heavy rotation during June, and again in the fall. This double faced knit is so great to sew and wear, I’ll always be on the lookout for more. Does anyone know a great source of lovely fabric like this?

Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by!

Putting Fushia Linen To Good Use

Published on by ellegeemakes17 Comments

 

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I have a new favorite color; fuschia.  This fuschia linen jacket takes me back to my first handmade effort years ago, a Vogue Perry Ellis jacket pattern that I fussed over because it was so expensive! Everything about that project felt special to me, so I visited a specialty fabric store and splurged on three yards of beautiful fuschia linen. At that point in my life, I had an entry level job with a corresponding salary, so I was necessarily frugal and so nervous when I cut into that expensive fabric. Such a risk!! Even now, after years of sewing, that same quiver hits me when I cut into a favorite piece.

That was certainly the case with this lovely linen!

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When I shop for linen at the fabric stores in Portland, earthy, natural colors are easy to come by, but it’s hard to find vibrant, rich brights! So, I was so thrilled when I found this linen on-line (Fabric.com),  on sale at the end of last summer.

The pattern I chose for my casual jacket is one I’ve sewn before (here), McCalls 7333.  I loved and wore that jacket so much, I was really eager to try the pattern again.

 

There are many reasons to love this design; the drawstring waist, the off shoulder look, the tab sleeves, but I’m crazy about this magnificent hood!

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I’m not sure why I love hoods so much. Maybe it’s because I live in the Pacific Northwest where Rain Rules. Whatever the reason, I’m a fan of this one. I love the way the collar drapes nicely into the jacket lapel; so relaxed yet stylish.

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About the Pattern: The instructions were easy to follow. I found the sizing straightforward, but generous (XS-XXL). The style is very loose and the collar gives weight at the neck, making it quite wide, so if you cut a size too large, it could easily slip off your shoulders. Since I have narrow shoulders, I took 5/8 from the shoulders. I also cut a size smaller than my measurements, and it’s still a good fit.

One nice detail with this pattern is the two-piece sleeves with button cuffs. They add a polished element that gives this loose jacket some structure. They wereeasy and simple to insert as are the buttoned cuffs.

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It’s definitely linen season here (finally!) and I think this pattern was the perfect use for my cherished fabric. I’m wearing this jacket here with my Ginger jeans, which are in heavy rotation in my wardrobe! There’s another pair of those in my future too.

On my sewing table:  I’ve just cut out a Blackwood cardigan, and a new springy top for Faye’s Tops that Pop challenge (lots of inspiration on her blog)! Look for those posts soon. I’m also planning an update on my RTW fast experience and will be participating with Me-Made-May.

I love linen, and am always happy to find a new style that works with it. I have another green piece in my stash that I’ve been considering for a bright Spring trench. To do so, I’d have to underline the coat, I think, since linen is crisp but maybe not quite crisp enough. Have any of you ever underlined linen?

Happy Spring sewing and thanks for stopping by!

 

Remnant Buster– Vogue 9301 three ways

Published on by ellegeemakes14 Comments

When it comes to fabric shopping I can be my own worst enemy. Last year, I was in a frugal mood. Unfortunately, this didn’t keep me from buying fabric – – it only kept me from purchasing enough. So, I found myself short by a half a yard on several projects. Now, in 2018, I seem to have over-corrected. Now, I have more than my fair share of one yard remnants, leftovers from large purchases of knits that were way too much for the dresses I made recently. What to do? Sew a few knit tops, of course.

Enter Vogue 9301, a semi-fitted knit top designed by Kayla Kennington.

V9301_aWho is Kayla, anyway? If you read Threads magazine, you’ve likely heard of her. She’s a designer who’s written articles for them and her creations are gorgeous – so artistic and amazing. She can take the leftovers from her various projects and turn them into something special. If you haven’t visited her website, do. It’s a treat! Vogue 9301 is such a perfect example of  her style, a semifitted top that you can mix and match fabrics and embellish as you wish.

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My first version was really simple, because I needed to see how the top would fit me. I’m small, so sometimes unstructured tunics can really be overwhelming on me. To test the pattern, I used a piece of fabric that’s been in my stash for so long, it has a faded streak in the back. I’m 5′ 4″ yet, this pattern is almost as long as a dress on me…a great length with leggings.

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Even without contrast fabric, this pattern has a great shape and style.  I loved the asymmetry of the hem line and the hem band – I couldn’t wait to play around with contrast fabric.  To make the top a bit shorter, I shortened both the front and back bodice at the waist line by 5/8″. This made the fit much better I think for my height.

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For this version, I used remnants from this dress, and had some fun playing around with stripe placement. The wide band at the hemline requires alot of fabric (I had very little) and it must be in one piece, so it was a struggle to get it from the leftover fabric I had. Luckily, I made it, but it would have been fun to have cut that band so that the stripes were at a diagonal to the bodice, but that’s what happens when you’re using remnants – options are limited!  I think this version is casual and fun – – the sort of top I throw on over jeans to hang out in.

Version Three: I just had to go all the way, and add in the flaps too!

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I used contrast fabric remnants for the sleeves and the optional flaps. The wide hem band is a second contrast fabric and the sleeve bands are cut perpendicular to the grain.

Vogue 9301 is a fun sew and pretty fast too, each version took me about two hours. It’s a great remnant stash buster, and a nice palate cleanser after my coat. I can imagine using this pattern again.

These tops will make Me-Made-May easier to pull off this year! Are you participating? I’m joining in and will post some of my days on Instagram. I do find the exercise of wearing me-mades every day to be revealing. It’s interesting to see which makes you reach for again and again, and which you ignore! I’ll be sharing my findings here.

Remnant busting is so satisfying – would love to hear what you do with yours. Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by!

Two Cozy Knit Dresses for January

Published on by ellegeemakes33 Comments

This Butterick pattern has shown up on alot of blogs since it was introduced in 2016 and I can see why. It’s fun to sew and to play around with! Since committing to the 2018 Ready-To-Wear Fast, I’ve also been committed to filling some significant holes in my wardrobe. Casual dresses to wear when it’s chilly and damp have topped the list.

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This sweater knit (fabricdepot.com) is perfect for this dress because it’s fairly dense and textured with a moderate crosswise stretch.

In contrast, this stretch terry is also cozy, but it behaves differently since it has less body and no texture, and a bit more stretch.IMG_7218

It’s always interesting to see how different knits can change the look and feel of a pattern! The side seams are an interesting detail of this design and I like how they show up with the contrasting fabric.

I was attracted to Butterick 6388 because of the cozy collar, the side seam detail and the in seam pockets.

 

It also has a shaped collar that overlaps and a back yoke. To give my striped version a bit of an athletic look, I added a contrasting sleeve band at the dropped shoulder seam before attaching the lower sleeve.

 

As far as sewing challenges, there were very few with this pattern. After comparing my measurements to the pattern, I concluded I needed a size small and the fit was pretty spot on. I did my usual narrow shoulder adjustment. The in seam pockets were easy to insert and I love how they’re given some definition with top stitching. There’s top stitching at the collar and back yoke too which makes the dress look polished. To insert the curvy back yoke, you do need to do a bit of stretching so making sure your fabric has some cross wise stretch. I also clipped the seams to make this easier. To make sure the collar isn’t floppy, a knit with some body and stability is important. This dress was really a fun, speedy make. I was able to cut and sew it in an afternoon, a plus if you ask me!

 

Both of these knits were so nice to work with! High quality knits are always worth the extra money in my opinion, because they’re easy to handle and wear.

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I’m not sure which version I like best, but when I wore the textured knit version out last weekend, my friends gave it a big  thumbs up. Which one is your favorite?

The athletic/leisure look is so popular right now, and this dress makes me feel like I’m following the trend, LOL! Obviously, I have a new favorite pattern here. Might have to make the shorter top version too. Do you have a favorite knit dress pattern? Please share!

Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by!

 

 

New Look 6519: An easy travel dress

Published on by ellegeemakes12 Comments

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I’m always on the look out for stylish dresses that are easy and comfortable to wear while traveling in hot weather. That’s why the simplicity of this New Look pattern caught my eye. The shape of the dress is accomplished with the addition of a simple belt.

This means the dress can be loose or fitted, depending on how tight you tie the belt so it’s perfect for hot weather. The other good news, is that there are very few complicated design details which makes sewing a breeze. Yet, there are some cool details on this dress too, like the back V.

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I often forget about New Look patterns, but I’m not sure why, because they never let me down! New Look 6519 was simple to construct – – I made it in a Saturday afternoon! Also, the top version is a stash buster…It only takes a yard and a half.

I used a soft cotton lawn for this dress (Fabric Depot) which makes it perfect for hot, muggy weather. The neck of the dress is finished with seam-binding, which is fast and easy to do. I did modify the pattern slightly, adding wide 6″ ruffles to the sleeves in a contrast fabric. I love the relaxed, easy look of a wide ruffle. To accomplish this, I just took a twelve-inch wide piece of fabric that was the length of the sleeve opening times 1.5. Then I folded it over, wrong sides together and gathered it, before inserting it into the sleeve opening.

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IMG_7330Not only is cotton lawn easy to wear, but it’s lightweight, so this dress won’t take up much space in my very small suitcase. I’m determined to take small a single small bag on this next trip, in spite of the fact that I’ll be gone for almost three weeks and I’m determined to succeed. My clothes (mostly me-mades) are cottons, rayons and linens which I hope will compress easily, and for this trip, I ordered a set of packing cubes, a concept that’s new to me. Have you ever tried them? Any tips?

It’s so odd to be sewing light weight summer clothes when the weather here in Oregon is on the cool side with plenty of rain! Fingers crossed that my next post will include outdoor photos…. Happy summer sewing, and thanks for stopping by!

 

Tencel Love

Published on by ellegeemakes20 Comments

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Since completing this pair of gray Jalie Jeans, I’ve been in a frenzy, sewing fun summer-y tops to go with them, hence – – this shirt!  I can tell it’s going to be a favorite because it’s made from Tencel, better known as lyocell, a fabric I grew to love when I bought a Tencel shirt at Anthropologie a few years ago. Not only is Tencel comfortable, it’s a sustainable fabric, regenerated from wood cellulose. It feels similar in hand to rayon and bamboo, both regenerated fabrics. I think I love this fabric because it has weight, yet it feels comfortable, even when it’s hot and humid. That’s because Tencel boasts the ability to absorb perspiration and quickly release it into the atmosphere, so it’s resistant to developing odors.

It sounds like the perfect ‘travel’ fabric to me! That’s why I chose it for my latest make; a button up shirt that will travel with me to Spain and Portugal this summer. It will be hot there, so I know this top will be in my suitcase!

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My pattern for this shirt is McCalls’ 7387, a pattern I had to have because of the cool back pleat.

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It’s those sort of little details that take a make from ho-hum to fabulous. This pleat is so cool. It’s a double pleat In other words you make one pleat then, fold another one over the top of it, creating this criss-cross look.

McCall’s 7387 took me about four hours to make from cut-out to hem. It probably would have taken less time if I’d resisted the urge to binge watch, “How to Get Away with Murder. “(I confess… I had to concentrate to follow the plot. The bonus for perservering though is the eye candy of Viola Davis’ wardrobe… she looks ‘chic’ but invincible. ) If you aren’t binge-watching, you could probably make this shirt in three hours.IMG_5804

Pattern Modifications: I left the flap off the front fly that covers the buttons because I wanted them to show. I visualized white buttons down the front of this shirt when I decided on this fabric, so I had to drop the flap. I added buttons to the pocket flaps too.

I also changed out the collar and replaced it with a collar band. I did this because I plan to wear this in warm weather and sometimes collars make me feel hot. To do this, I drafted a collar band by copying one from a tried and true button up shirt pattern.

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I’m smiling because I’m wearing blue Tencel!  This fabric was in the category of ‘special’, so I was a nervous when I decided to try a new pattern. I was so lucky that the pattern fit without modifications….phew!

My sewing energy is focussed on travel clothes right now. I’m trying to use the skills I gained from the Pattern Review Sudoku challenge to help me coordinate my travel wardrobe so that I can pack efficiently. Nevertheless, my efforts are a bit scattered. What will my neutral colors be? Do I pack skirts, shorts and tops, or do I just take a couple of dresses and call it good? What I do know for certain is that this shirt is going with me!

I’ve never traveled with Tencel, and one questions looms in my mind. Will it wrinkle? Have you sewn with Tencel? Thumbs up or down?

Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by!