Tag: waist tucks

DIY top with waist tucks and bell sleeves

Published on by ellegeemakes16 Comments

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Greetings from the sultry streets of Portland. The temperature rarely rises above ninety degrees here in the rose city, but this week has been extraordinary. Two days have topped out at 100+ and more hot days are ahead. Weather like this drives me to my basement sewing room where the air is cool. And, as luck would have it, a beautiful piece of silk waited for me there!

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This top was inspired by the runway fashions this Spring that featured Bell sleeves. I can’t seem to get enough of the look (see my other makes here and here), and I can tell as I wear this new top, I’m probably not done with this look even now. Because the bell sleeves have lots of volume, I decided to pair them with a more defined waist to balance out the bigness of the sleeves.  The fabric is from my stash, a lightweight silk that fells like nothing when you wear it. I found it at Mill End Store last Spring and have been waiting for inspiration to strike. The print is bold, so I knew a simple design would be my preference.

 

I modified a much loved pattern, Butterick 5890.

This pattern has loads of personality, with waist tucks and collar variations that are easy and fun to modify. I decided to draft new sleeves that would satisfy my bell sleeve obsession. I also made a long tie belt, that can be wrapped twice to give the waist more definition. The waist tucks are nice enough as they are though, so sometimes, I’ll  just wear the top without the belt.

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I used view C, but modified the pattern as follows:

-I cut the front bodice on the fold.

-I lengthened the sleeve by five inches.

-I added a bell to the sleeve by cutting a rectangluar shaped piece, 8″ by 20″. I gathered one long edge of this piece, then stitched the 8″ ends together before attaching it to the sleeve to create the bell.

-I added a long wrap belt, 70″ by 4″ .

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All in all, I’m happy with this new top. In part, it gets a thumbs up because it was comfortable today, even in the heat. And, it Did Not Wrinkle! Also, I should say, I’m pretty sure my bell sleeve obsession isn’t over yet. I’ve already started to imagine a longer sleeve version for fall, and am toying with the idea of adding a sleeve band detail too. We’ll see how that idea evolves :).

Move over Linen! Silk is my new favorite ‘hot’ weather fabric. What’s yours?

Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by!

 

 

 

It’s summer, and the sewing is easy!

Published on by ellegeemakes2 Comments
It’s a scorcher out there, my friends! And, there’s only one thing to wear at a time like this. A summer dress.  A person can’t have too many summer dresses, right? They’re so easy to throw on.
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Personally, when it’s hot, I live by the rule, less is more. I do not want heavy fabrics. I do not want my clothes to touch me. In fact, if naked was an option, I’d (probably?) go with that.  My less-is-more attitude extends to pattern choices as well. I want a pattern that has style without structure. (Yes, that’s asking a lot.) And if it’s ‘fast and easy’, that’s even better! Who wants to be inside, bent over a sewing machine, when it’s beautiful outside?
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This summer shift dress meets my very loose requirements. It’s a basic a-line with some soft tucks at the waist to give it a slight fit n’ flare shape. It’s made from a simple light-weight cotton, (purchased at Fabric Depot). I love this fabric because I can tell it will get softer with every wash. And it’s cotton. Sewing with cotton is always a breeze. I am such a fan…
For this dress, I used one of my ‘tried and true’ patterns, Butterick 5890, a top with tuck variations, sleeve variations and collar variations.
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I lengthened the tunic (view D), to make it a dress by adding 8″ to the length.
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Then, to add a bit of interest, I decided to try a v-neck version. This modification was made by drawing a straight line from the edge of the inside shoulder seam to the center front seam (view D has one, which makes this pretty straightforward). Then, I added a 5/8 seam allowance so that I could add a facing to that edge. Using my straight edge, I cut a matching front facing with seams allowances as well.
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For the sleeves, I used view A,  an option with armhole bands that are squared off. The arm bands are one of the reasons I love this pattern. They’re easy to sew, and they give the dress a bit of a vintage vibe.
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To be honest, this dress was so easy to sew, I almost feel guilty about not challenging myself. My excuse? It’s summer! Challenges are for when it’s dark and dreary outside, right? All told, this dress took only about 3 hours from start to finish. When Butterick says, Fast and Easy, they aren’t kidding. Gotta love that! I chose a print for this dress, but I think a solid would work too (maybe some yummy linen or silk).
Do you prefer ‘fast and easy’ patterns in the summer? Or does the sunshine elevate your mood, giving you the energy for a challenge?

A Lisette cutout frock for sunny California

Published on by ellegeemakes2 Comments

I have been sewing like crazy because I’m going to Southern California in a couple of weeks, the land of sun and fun!  The weather will be outstanding – – guaranteed. What better excuse to sew with linen, right?

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When I saw the newest Lisette dress/tunic pattern from Butterick this Spring, I immediately said, California here I come!
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It had an unusual cross-over bodice with tucks, two design elements I couldn’t wait to try. Not only that, but a couple of yards of Cotton and Steel linen was calling to me from my stash (Call me a group if you must, but I’m addicted to Cotton and Steel fabric).
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Butterick 6168 is a pattern designed by Liesl Gibson, of ‘Oliver +S’ fame. (check out the Liesl and Co. website for lots of inspiration!) At first glance, the pattern looks ‘easy’, and, in some ways, it is. There are no button holes, or collar points that require precision or patience. In other words, you don’t have to perform dangerous sewing feats to make this pattern.
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But need I say? Looks can be deceiving! For a short bodice girl like me,  the challenge was in the fit.  The very things that attracted me to the pattern (criss-cross bodice and tucks) made it essential that I Go the Extra-Mile to create a trial bodice out of throw-away fabric.
Even though I cut the smallest size, the dress stuck out in the chest as though it expected Marilyn Monroe’s breasts to live there. Hilarious! So, I increased the depth of the tucks a bit, and the wrap worked fine. No gaps or embarrassing pointy areas. But, when I applied the same adjustments to my lust-worthy linen, I didn’t get the same results. I freaked. When I calmed down, though I had an epiphany. It was all about drape!!! My linen was stiffer than my ‘throw-away’ cotton, so the front stuck out again, begging that I bring more to the table than my ‘A’ cup breasts. Not going to happen.  So, I had to do a ‘tear down’ of my cleverly built bodice to adjust those tucks again. The good news – the problem was fixable.  It just took a bit of patience.
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 My advice? If you’re a bit ’non-standard’ in the chest/bodice area, Knock Out that Bodice in a remnant of throw-away cotton (that piece you wish you’d never purchased in the first place) with the same drape as your chosen fabric. That way, you won’t have a depressing mess on your hands.
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After I adjusted the bodice, the dress went together nicely. If I was in the mood to be critical though, I’d say the pattern was designed with too many gathers in the skirt. When you stand to the side, you do look pregnant. I suppose, if you’re in a ‘family’ way, that’s cool. I am not. Of course, if you use a lightweight fabric, this problem might be less of an issue. Also, I did make it sleeveless in anticipation of Southern California heat.
All in all, it was a fun project that I learned a lot from. I’m sure I’ll wear this top again and again.  If you’re interested in making the dress yourself, there’s a Lisette Sew Along on their website.
Have you had issues with fabric drape before? What about chest/cup size adjustments? Any tips?

A gray jacket for…Spring? 

Published on by ellegeemakes8 Comments

Yes, I know it’s the time of year for wearing bright colors like yellow and fuchsia and green. But gray? Not so much.

I ask…why not? Gray is a tried and true neutral, darn good company to just about any other color you can name. That’s why I decided to make a casual Spring jacket out of gray – -because it will go with every bright color you can conjure up.

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Of course, it is May, an odd time of year to think about jackets and coats at all. Soon, the weather will be so warm, coats will be obsolete. Why by the end of the week, we’re promised eighty degree weather, even in Oregon! Still, promises are made to be broken. I suspect I’ll need to have a coat by my side for quite some time to come.
The pattern I used for this wrap jacket is Vogue 9037, a loose fitting, unlined double-breasted jacket with front and back tucks.
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 It was the tucks that did it. When I saw them, I fell like a fool for this jacket. Not only that, but the collar on View A, made it a must have too. It’s wide, but not too wide, with an unusual cut. The shaped hemline looked interesting too.
Because the jacket is unlined, I decided to use a double faced fabric, a ponte knit that I’ve had in my stash for so long, I can’t remember where it came from :). You know how it is. Honestly though, I wish I could remember, because this fabric is the perfect weight for Spring and a dream to work with. I’d love to have it in black or navy too.
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The pattern looked pretty straightforward, but I was a taken back (freaked!) when I read the warning on the pattern envelope though…No provisions provided for above waist adjustment! Noooooooo. Very bad news for a short-torso person like me!
Of course, I didn’t notice that horrid warning until I’d already cut the fabric….(Hmmmm. Perhaps I should slow down once in awhile and read the pattern instructions carefully before diving right in, maybe even trying it out with muslin?)
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Fortunately, there isn’t a tragic end to this story. I lucked out!!! The jacket fit like a dream with no adjustments.  The tucks are positioned just right for the likes of me.
The jacket was easy to sew and, since it’s a wrap style, there aren’t any buttonholes to make. Nice, eh? The tucks are easy too, especially if you mark the fabric well. My only regret is that I didn’t have enough fabric to make the tie belt as long as I would have liked.
I’m happy with the result and plan to make this pattern again, probably in the fall. If you need an easy-to-wear, throw on jacket, I highly recommend this one.
What do you think? Am I kidding myself about gray? Should my wrap jacket be shut away until fall?

Thursday tee: A froufrou floral…tamed!

Published on by ellegeemakes2 Comments

Floral prints mean Spring to me. They always tune my mind into thinking, warm (!), a must after spending the long winter buried under sweaters and fleece. By the time May rules around, I have a hard time believing ‘warm’ exists at all!

I love the optimism of a good floral, but to me, wearing one is a bit tricky. The wrong floral can make me look like my grandmother (loved you granny, but…). And if the print is too pastel, it makes me feel fussy rather than fresh.  So, I tend to gravitate to florals that include bold colors or where the froufrou feeling is tamed by a bit of black.
When it comes to fashion, here’s the good news. This Spring, there are zillions to choose from! That makes it easy to give in to their Spring-y optimism because you can find one that matches your favorite color palate. I love the bold florals by Celine and how they paired them with black to balance out their sweetness.
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And the floral Antonio Marras used here is so fresh! It even has a cool seventies vibe.
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When I shop for fabric, I approach any floral with a bit of trepidation, which I toss aside willingly when said floral looks like it will go with my everyday staple– my favorite jeans. So, when I saw this floral tee-shirt knit, I just had to have it. It’s a print that includes my favorite bold colors; cobalt blue, black and fuchsia, with a back drop of gray. Instant love! A must have! (And of course, price is no object at a moment like this.)
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The pattern I used is Butterick 5890, a top with tucks to define the waist, and a number of sleeve variations. I used View C, a tee with a front center seam and two long tucks on either side. The pattern is designed for light weight wovens, but since my knit was stable, I decided it could pass as a woven in a pinch.
One great thing about this pattern – – It doesn’t require much fabric. Since I’m small/short person, it took less than a yard and a half to make this tee, a plus since I have many (many!!) pieces in my fabric stash that are about that size. Any project that contributes to my Stash Reduction Project gets bonus points from me.
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To balance out the floral’s intrinsic sweetness, I cut the sleeves from a contrast fabric, a black solid. I also used black binding at the neck, and at the hem to give the tee a bit more edge and shape.
The pattern went together quickly (an easy afternoon sew) and the tucks were easy once I had the fabric well marked. The trickiest part for me was raising the waist position, a must since I’m short waisted. Once I figured that out, it was a breeze. Oh, and because my fabric had a bit of stretch, I cut the pattern one size smaller to adjust for that.
It’s a comfy tee that goes well with dark pants, dark skirts, and (of course) my trusted jeans, which balances out the frofrou floral. But even with the black contrast, the tee still says Spring to me- – which is why this top belongs outside, swinging in the warm breeze….
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Are you wild about this season’s florals, or do you think they belong in the past?