McCalls 6883 morphs into a top!

It’s a little late in July for red, white, and blue. Never-the-less, this Cotton and Steel print begged to be worn.

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I was first attracted to this fabric because of the crazy mish-mash of red, white and blue checks sprinkled on a back drop of cream. But, when I touched the fabric, I had to possess it. The weave of this rayon is so fine, you imagine you’re wearing silk.

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That’s what motivated me to make this fabric into something really wearable, a wardrobe essential I’d have reason to wear again and again. For me, that means a go-to top that can be worn with jeans, or dressed up with a skirt or some nice pants. I wanted something that looked casual, yet structured. So,to challenge myself a bit, I decided to make the top by using two patterns combined; the bodice of a fitted dress and a peplum from another pattern. I couldn’t tell you what inspired me to put these two patterns together (no, there was not wine involved, I swear). But, once the idea grabbed hold, I had to give it a try.

The neckline of the dress (McCall’s 6883) is what made me buy this pattern. It’s a wide neckband with a bit of a vintage vibe.

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To shift the dress into a top, I cut it off at the natural waistline, then attached a loose peplum, adapted from Vogue 8815.

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This is what happens when I go crazy for a neckline, but not so much for the rest of the pattern!

Modifications to McCalls 6883:

  • I cut the dress as designed, but shortened the bodice to the natural waist. I was able to get this modified pattern from a scant yard of fabric.
  • The lower bodice of my top is the peplum from Vogue 8815. To make sure it would fit on the modified bodice of my dress, I measured the bottom of the bodice,  as well as the waist of the peplum. I discovered there was an inch discrepancy between the two, so, in order to make them fit together, I had to widen the peplum waist by 1”. When attaching the peplum to the dress, I used a 5/8” seam, which placed the peplum slightly above my waist, which is where I wanted it. Yes, I was sweating this a bit, but miraculously, the bodice and peplum went together with very little pain and suffering.

Fabric: Cotton and Steel Rayon purchased at Fabric Depot

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Lately it seems, I’m modifying my existing sewing patterns rather than buying new ones. This is probably a good thing, since my pattern stash is HUGE.  It’s also a good way  to get the style I want, while using a pattern I know will fit me.  The risk though, is that the new version of my old favorite will be so wonky, it looks like a big mistake! Still, even though risky, I enjoyed this process of combining patterns. It used a part of my sewing brain that needs to be stretched from time to time, so I’ll probably do it again.

I hope your summer is fabulous and fun, and that you’re getting a chance to wear all of your favorite makes! Thanks for stopping by!

Eyelet: A fabric with a higher purpose

Eyelet fabric – – Not only does it look great but when summer reaches its boiling point, eyelet has a higher purpose. Its lovely holes keep you cool!
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 A classic fabric, with a ladylike vibe, eyelet has gone through a major upgrade this season, with fresh colors and textures that give it a stylish pop! It’s the new perfect hot weather fabric, a must in Oregon, where you can never be sure your destination will be air-conditioned. So, if you don’t want to SUFFER, you wear only crisp cottons, lightweight linens, or, even, a breezy colorful eyelet.
Since it’s been hot and muggy in my neck of the woods, I’ve discovered that my wardrobe is a bit skimpy when it comes to summery tops. So, when I spotted a piece of blue (!!) eyelet in my stash, I knew immediately what I wanted to make from it: a sleeveless top.
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The fabric: This eyelet has been in my stash for awhile, so I’m not sure where it came from. The fabric is a great shade of blue, that’s not really a navy or cobalt, but somewhere between those two colors. Love!! When I first saw this fabric, I thought I’d need to underline it, but the holes are really small, so I chose not to because I wanted the top to be super light and comfortable. I don’t mind a bit of skin showing through.
Pattern: I decided to modify one of my tried and true patterns, Vogue 8815,Unknown  images-1
a top with a raised waist and sleeve variations. My favorite version is view C because the raised waist has a unique curve to it.
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It’s an easy pattern that I’ve made before (see it here). View C is supposed to be a pullover, but I added a back zipper just like view A and B. The instructions are well drafted, so this pattern would work for a beginner.
Modifications:  I made the pattern as is, but added a tie at the natural waist line to give it a different look and a bit more shape.
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To make the tie a part of the top’s design, I marked the natural waist on the pattern, then sewed the tie into the side seams at that place. This way, when the tie is pulled to the front, it adds some shape at the waist and makes the peplum fall in easy gathers.
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I think I’m going to wear this top a lot since our summer is starting off with a bang. It can be dressed up with jewelry or worn with jeans.
Last but not least, I must give a shout out to you all. Usually, I don’t sew that much in the summer, but I’ve been so inspired by the summer creations posted on my favorite blogs (visit the blogs on my list to the right to see what I’m talking about here), I’m sewing like crazy! Thanks to all of you, and Happy Summer!!

Not Your Mother’s Peplum

During one of my recent jaunts into the enticing, instantly gratifying world of ready-to-wear, I heard a discussion through a thin dressing room wall (which is not really eavesdropping, right?). “You absolutely cannot wear that,” one woman said to another. “It’s a peplum and they are a fashion NO!”

It was an interesting statement, one that begged for debate, or at least, extensive internet research. So, I perused the designer collections for Spring, and discovered that there could be a bit of truth to that. The old, more extreme peplum look does seem to be gone.
But now, there’s a new peplum in town. It’s less of a waist defining shape. It seems lower, a bit looser, and a little less (dare I say), prissy than the ones that came before.
Here’s one from Marni that I fell hard for.
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Another from Thakoon that could live in my closet if it wanted to.
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Cute shorts too.
After all that research, I had to make one of my own. The pattern I used is Vogue 8815, a fitted top with a raised wast, long front darts for shaping, and a narrow hem. I chose view C because it had an interesting, less traditional look.
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I used a lightweight cotton purchased from Fabric Depot that is a dusty denim blue (I hope to some day get over my denim obsession). Not only did I buy it because it’s Blue, but because it has a dot pattern imprinted on the fabric that I love. I used a similar solid cotton for the sleeves.
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The pattern was easy to put together. Although view C is a pullover, I added a zipper in the back, just because it felt more finished that way.  I cut the smallest size (8) and adjusted the side seams for fit, since I’m usually a 6 through the back.
The peplum fit onto the bodice perfectly. On view C, it doesn’t extend to the back which makes the whole process easy and fast. The neck is finished with seam binding, also easy and fast. The hemline is lower in the back than the front, which gives it a bit of an edge. Cool, but it’s something to keep in mind when you choose the fabric though, as the wrong side shows.
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 I think I like the look of a looser peplum as it feels fresh and different. This is an easy top to wear, so comfortable you could eat Thanksgiving dinner and still be able to breathe! I’ll probably have to make another, soon.
How do you feel about peplums? Has it been done to death, or do they still have a place in your heart?