DIY Street Fair Kimono and a Cold Shoulder Tee

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Summer is winding down, but there are still plenty of opportunities to attend street fairs, farmer’s markets and wine festivals. Since Street Fairs are great places to get your inner bo-ho on, I’ve taken to wearing kimonos over my standard jeans and tees on my excursions.

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A kimono is such a great wardrobe soldier. When you toss one on, you immediately add style to any outfit!  But the best part about kimonos is that they are so fun to sew. You can use just about any fabric with a good drape to make a show stopping topper. And, because kimonos have front bands and sleeve bands, you can play around with contrasting fabrics to make the look your own.

For my kimono, I used a tried and true pattern, Simplicity 1318, view C with a great high low hem. Lightweight fabrics work best for this look, so I used a sheer cotton lawn I purchased last year in that fabulous fabric store I found in Budapest (see this post). It has a fun geometic print that I took some care in placing on the pattern.

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I love this kimono pattern so much, this is my third make (I’ve made it twice before, here and here). The only modification I made this time was to lengthen it by three inches so it would be long and flowy.

 

 

 

 

 

Because I am committed to reducing the number of wardrobe orphans in my closet, I also made Simplicty 8337, a cold shoulder knit top to go with it.

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This pattern is fabulous! It has several different views, all with a look of their own. I love the cut of the bodice. It’s slightly loose but not too blousy. The v-neck is a winner too.

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Some notes on this pattern:

  • I used a lovely rayon knit with two way stretch that I found at Fabric Depot. You need a good amount of stretch for the cold shoulder sleeve to hug your arm and not sag.
  • The pattern is generously sized. I was able to cut a XS and had room to spare.
  • Also, please note, there is a seam down the front, which is a bit unexpected in a tee. It’s was likely added to the pattern to accomodate the ruffle version and the v-neck version. It doesn’t bother me on my solid color tee, but you could elimnate that front seam pretty easily if you wanted to.

Both patterns are keepers, if you ask me!

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Now that I’ve made this kimono pattern three times, I think it should enter a special category in my pattern stash;  the pattern Hall of Fame, don’t you think? Hmmm, I might have to put together a special post to honor that category :).

Do you have any three-time winners in your pattern stash? I’d love to check them out!

Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by.

 

 

 

A color-blocked tee in ‘Merlot’: the perfect palette cleanser

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After completing a challenging sewing project, I often find I need an easy follow-up ‘sew’, sort of a palette cleanser, you know? A tee or a top is my ‘go-to’ project at times like these and I feel especially virtuous if my project uses up a bit of my huge, largely untamed fabric stash.

I found this great red ponte in my stash, and decided it needed to go out into the world. It’s a wine-y red, similar to the color Pantone chose for 2015, ‘Marsala’, a robust and earthy wind red that they describe as a ‘hearty but stylish tone’ (LOL).  I gotta give them credit. They definitely called that trend, because that color of red is everywhere! In Nordstrom’s fall catalog, they called it ‘merlot’ and nearly every page included a splash (Ha) of it. And who among us doesn’t love a color that reminds them of their favorite beverage?

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The Merlot ponte in my stash was perfect for a tee, but there wasn’t enough for a long sleeved style (so typical…), so I was forced to color block (Yes, I’m a fool for it), mixing my wine-colored fabric with accents of black and gray.

The pattern I chose for my easy-to-wear tee is Vogue 8710, a semi-fitted pullover top.

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The pattern was released awhile ago, but it’s still around. I love tees that fit closely around the bust and shoulders, but that have an interesting shape. This one fits that criteria perfectly because it’s almost bell shaped at the bottom, which I love, but it’s not too loose either.

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View B is a color blocking dream-come-true because it has curved side panels that add interest to the fit, but are also the perfect host for a contrasting color.

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For me, the fit of this pattern is pretty spot on, in spite of the fact that I have really narrow shoulders. I think this means that others might need to adjust the pattern a bit? I used red ponte’ for the bodice (moderate stretch), dark gray for the side panels, and black jersey for the sleeves and neck binding. My ponte’ knit was pretty substantial with a lot of body, but with a good drape. This seems important to support the cool shape of the bottom of the tee. I don’t think this pattern would work as well if your knit was too lightweight, even though the suggested fabric include light jerseys. Just saying….

The pattern was super easy to put together. I used the knit stitch on my regular sewing machine and it worked fine. This tee qualifies as a quick sew to be sure. You don’t have to think too much so you can watch Game of Thrones and never miss a beat. And it’s so fun to have a new top that you started in the morning, but wear in the afternoon.

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I think I’ll make this top again, probably in some random shades of blue (I’m obsessed!). Do you have a favorite ‘palette cleanser’ pattern? Do share! Happy Sewing! And thanks for stopping by.

In defense of the polka dot; Vogue 9128

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When it comes to polka dots, I’m a true fan. To me, they’re a fun, easy-to-wear print; a timeless, classic look that’s fun and light. 
 
So when I spied the polka dots on this cotton knit at Mill End, I couldn’t wait to throw that bolt of fabric in my shopping cart. Imagine my surprise when the woman standing next to me scoffed at my choice. “Polka dots!” she exclaimed. “I hate those things. They send women back to the fifties every time someone wears them.” Well, as you can see, I ignored the hater and bought those dots anyway.  But she made me think even more about those innocent-looking circles of color.
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Of course, one of the reasons I love polka dots is their history. Some well known vintage fashion moments included polka dots.
Marilyn Monroe made history when she wore this bikini in the fifties.
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Elizabeth wore them too.
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And here’s Katherine Hepburn in polka dot pajamas. I’d love to channel her when I wear my dots!

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There’s no denying that those dots do have a decidedly fifty’s vibe, a time when women struggled, many without  the choices we enjoy today.
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But leave it to Zooey Deschanel, a successful woman who loves polka dots and full skirts and peter pan collars, to sum it up so well.
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Or…Polka dots! 
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My polka dot tee is Vogue 9128, a pullover top (close-fitting through the bust) with neck binding, front seam detail, and a peplum with shaped hemline. I decided to make this pattern when I noticed it included details that are a bit unusual for a tee-top, like front seams and the fun peplum. I made the long sleeved version because I wanted a transition top, something lightweight enough for warm afternoons, but with long sleeves to protect on cool fall mornings.
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As most tees are, this was quick to put together. I love the way the peplum is constructed, (attached to the center front panel).  The seam lines at the bust are great too and the curve is so gradual, it isn’t tricky to sew at all. One note about fitting – – the pattern isn’t designed so that you can modify the waist length with a mid-bodice adjustment. For me, this wasn’t a problem as the waist was positioned correctly for my shape ( a minor miracle, since I almost always have to do a waist adjustment.) But if you’re long waisted, you might want to take extra care to figure out if the fit will be right for you.
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 Here’s a back view of the contrast.
What do I like most about this pattern? You know me – – it has options! You can mix and match fabrics by using contrasting solids or patterns or both. And it’s a great stash /remnant buster because it only takes 5/8 of a yard of fabric to make the contrasting panels.
It’s highly likely that I will make this top again, as the pattern just screams to be color-blocked. I probably won’t use polka dots again, although, to be honest, I do have another remnant in my stash (LOL). So, how do you feel about polka dots? Love, hate, or just so-so?
Happy sewing, and thanks for stopping by!

A DIY peplum tee with handkerchief hem

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Summer clothes must be effortless. Right? We’re too busy soaking up the sun to spend time fussing with our frocks!  My daily uniform consists of a tee shirt and a pair of shorts, maybe a skirt or two. Nothing could be easier to throw on in the morning.
One of my favorite easy-to-wear tees of all time, was a peplum top with a handkerchief hem that I bought during an Anthropologie spending spree a couple of years ago. After many, many wearings and washings, it is finally time to send it to tee-shirt heaven. But of course, I want another to replace it. But as is often the case in the land of ‘ready-to-wear’, that ship has sailed. The only way to get a replacement tee is to make one of my own.
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So, I decided to replicate the look by modifying my favorite basic tee pattern, Vogue 8536, a tried and true. It has several sleeve and neck variations, and my copy of the pattern has been used so many times, it’s practically in shreds! The fabric I chose is cotton with moderate stretch, purchased at Fabric Depot.
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To make this tee top, I cut view A, a version with short sleeves and a crew neck. Then, in order to accommodate the addition of a skirt, I shortened the tee to the natural waist line. I wanted the skirt/peplum to attach right above the natural waist so by cutting it there, after the addition of a 5/8” seam, the skirt would attach at the perfect spot. Then, I drafted the peplum/skirt portion.
First I cut a rectangle, 28″ by 18″.IMG_0082
Then I measured the bottom of the tee. On the center of the rectangle’s long side, I marked that width.
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Then, for the draped handkerchief look, I marked 12″ from the bottom of my rectangle for the ‘drop’. From this 12″ mark, I drew a line to the edge of the tee shirt hem mark. On the diagram here, that’s where the ruler is placed.
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Then, I cut of the triangles created by these lines. This creates the side seams for the angled peplum.
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The finished peplum looks like this.
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You cut two of these peplums, then sew them together at the angled side seams, and attach them to the tee shirt bottom (see the marked area above.) I used a one inch hem on the bottom.
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Clear as mud? I wouldn’t be surprised! If I’ve left out anything, please let me know, and I’ll try to clarify.  There’s probably a prepared pattern somewhere that is similar to my self drafted top. But after sorting and filing my patterns this weekend, I can easily say, I Do Not need to buy another pattern. Really.  I am on a self imposed pattern purchasing hiatus. (My stash could fill a storage locker).
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I hope your summer sewing is easy and fun. Thanks for stopping by!!

Thursday Tee: A season-flexible piece with swirls

This week’s tee is another stash buster, a project inspired by a remnant of mystery fabric I found in the (always seductive) remnant section at Fabric Depot. I bought it, not because I needed it (!), but because it’s embroidered with white flowers and swirls that look almost….french. Instant love! Of course, I indulged.

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Because there was only a yard of it, I had to find a piece of coordinating fabric that would look as though it was from the same dye lot, a tall order any day. But a serious case of fabric love had me in a frenzy. In the matter of a couple of hours, I drove from one end of the Portland to the other in search of the perfect, coordinating solid. (BTW, I am spoiled. We have a half a dozen fabric stores in Portland.)
 Luckily, the fabric fairy granted me my one wish, and on the very same day, I stumbled into a cool store in my neighborhood called Bolt. There, I found it, an off-white cotton knit that felt soft and yummy, and (magically) matched my mystery fabric perfectly.  Given my frenzied state, you’d probably  expect that I’d cut that fabric the very same day. But I didn’t. I parked both pieces on a shelf and stared at them. Sometimes, I love a fabric so much, I just have to think about for, well, months.
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Butterick 6134 is the pattern I (finally) used for this off-white tee/top. It’s a fitted top with a raised neckline (which is why I bought it), front princess seams (what’s not to love about those), and a narrow hem. The pattern is designed for lightweight woven and stable knits, perfect given my fabric choices. I made view A, but lengthened the sleeves (Yes, I know it’s Spring, but this is Oregon, after all). To give the top a more polished look, I added cuffs to the sleeves, cut from the same mystery fabric.
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This was an easy, fast sew because the sleeves are raglan style, so you don’t have to set them in. The raised neckline is easy too, as it’s cut as part of the bodice rather than constructed. All told, I made this top in an afternoon – Instant gratification.
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I’m in love with all shades of white these days, so this top will be worn alot. The long sleeves make it perfect, not only for Spring, but for Fall too. And I still love that fabric. But because I have no idea what it’s made of, I’ll have to resist the urge to toss it in the machine. Apparently, hand-washing is the downside of giving in to a mystery.
 Do you give into the lure of mystery fabric or have you been burned?

Thursday Tee: Color Block Love

Today’s tee is color blocked. The truth is, I love a good color blocked garment and probably will until I’m pushing up daisies. As trends go, it has a lot to offer, as well-placed blocks of color can shape your figure so that it looks like you wish it did!  Subtle combos look classic. More dramatic ones can attract attention.
But for those of us who sew, color blocking has an even deeper purpose. It gives you an opportunity to use all of those random pieces of fabric in your stash that are too boring to use alone! You know the ones -those small remnants of solids in safe colors like black and taupe and gray (sigh). I have so many, I could swear they’re reproducing.
Since I’m a bit color-block-obsessed,  I was thrilled to see the trend featured in a few designer collections this Spring. Some used big swaths of bold, bright color. I love these pieces by Roksanda Ilincic. The color combinations are unexpected, but really cool.
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 She is the queen of color blocking, no?
Top Shop played with the trend here; sporty and effective.
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Even J. Crew paired colors in interesting ways.  image
Okay. After looking at these exciting, edgy pieces, my color blocking moment looks a bit dull in comparison (LOL)  But, hey, it’s a start, right?
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When I experiment with color blocking, I like to keep it simple by applying some loose rules. I pick three colors, and often keep them in the same color family. (But after seeing the color blocking examples I posted here, I doubt I’ll stick to this rule in the future. Bravery has its rewards. Am I right?) When it comes to design, I choose simple patterns so that the color combination is what the eye sees.
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The pattern I used for this tee is McCalls’ 7093, a top/tunic that’s semi-fitted with front seam detail that makes it ideal for color blocking. I chose version B, a short sleeved tee with low pockets in the front.
Keeping with my cautious design aesthetic (in other words, I’m a chicken), I used three colors; black, brown and white for accent. The black and brown fabric is woven rayon, purchased at Fabric Depot but the white is the last piece of linen knit I bought in Capri a little over a year ago (wish I’d bought more!).
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The pattern was fun and easy to sew, but the best part was that buzz you get when you play around with fabric combinations, using up a bit of your unwieldy stash in the process! I sewed the pattern as designed with a few slight modifications:
  •  I cut the sleeves a bit longer by adding a inch in the length.
  • I added a 1” sleeve band to the sleeve for finish.
This was a fun project and I will likely make this pattern again. Next time though, I’ll make it a little shorter. And I swear, my color blocked version will be a bit more adventuresome too. No more ‘safe’ choices for me!(?)
What about you? Do you like to experiment with color blocking? What patterns/colors have you tried?
Thanks for stopping by!

Thursday Tee: An every day top with a bit of an Attitude 

Thursday is tee-day, a day for celebrating the type of sewing project I love the most – – Tops and Tees. It seems as though one never has enough!! Besides that, they’re fun to create, fast to sew, and (usually) immediately gratifying.
For me, my five star tees work hard to earn that distinction. A good one has a bit of style, yet it can be worn so many ways; with cropped pants, skirts, jeans, even (sometimes?) alone. They can be layered under sweaters, jackets, even under another tee.
If only we as people could be as flexible/versatile as our favorite tees!
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The story behind this one: There once was a tee….  I loved/wore it to death, a jersey top purchased at Anthro several seasons ago. It was so comfortable, I wanted to wear it every day. In fact, I  must have come close to doing just that, because (finally), all the frequent washings did it in. I looked for another one online, but, (you know the story), the style had been discontinued. Gnashing of teeth! I loved that top.
Taking that as I sign from the sewing gods that I should try to copy it, I made a grand effort. I took the old top apart seam by horrid seam (Do not try this at home.) Then, I tried to draft a pattern from the poor, tattered pieces. More gnashing of teeth. Let’s just say, the outcome was hilarious, a screaming failure that could be on ‘what not to wear’, but will not be posted here :).
Then, I saw the NEW patterns for Spring! The Vogue release had a style that looked just like it, Vogue 9056, a ‘very easy’ pullover top with raised waist and a flounce. I rushed out and paid Full Price for the pattern because I had to have it NOW.
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The results were worth it. This pattern has the look I was after. It’s a relaxed every day top with a bit of an attitude.
Even though the image on the pattern envelope (view B) showed the top in a striped fabric, I wasn’t sure I wanted my first effort to be so challenging. But a certain piece of striped Italian knit called to me from my stash (purchased at this Puyallup Sewing and Stitchery Expo, an awesome experience, check it out). So I jumped right in.
The pattern was easy to lay out, in spite of the inherent care that’s necessary when you are working with stripes. It was super fast and easy sew to sew too, as it has only four (!) pattern pieces. What’s not to like about that? The hem of the garment is machine stitched, as are the sleeve hems. The neck is finished similarly, so it’s an easy sew. Time from cut to finish was about three hours.Even though my knit had moderate stretch, it worked well for the pattern. It’s a lightweight fabric with a nice drape, which is important given the top’s bottom flounce.
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Instant Tee Love!!! This is an easy tee, a comfortable wardrobe staple worthy of frequent wearing. I’m already eyeing my (huge) fabric stash, planning my next project with this pattern, probably the sleeveless version (View A) with a v-neck, because we will (!)  have a hot summer in Oregon.
 I’d love to hear about your favorite tee pattern. Please share, and thanks for stopping by!