Tag: my closet

2020 in Review: Sewing Hits and Misses

Published on by ellegeemakes14 Comments

Hi all – -Even though 2020 has been rough, I do look forward to reviewing my hits and misses each year. So in spite of the fact that I’d like to forget much of this year quickly, here we go!

Some hits……

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The Tamarack Jacket (Grainline). Can I just say, what took me so long? I love wearing this jacket both outside and in. It is my go to ‘topper’ and I hope to make another one soon. This quilted Merchant and Mills fabric was such a fabulous splurge, but worth every penny. It makes this jacket such a pleasure to wear.

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Kantha Cloth Haori (Wiksten) – -Yes, there is a bit of a theme developing here…my new found love of quilted jackets! The colors in this fabric make me smile and the chambray lining is fabulous against the skin. If you haven’t made a Wiksten Haori, reconsider!

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1960s coat (Sew Over It) This was a challenging make but so worth the effort. The boucle wool was a splurge and I lined the coat in silk, a investment I will never regret. I love the classic style of this coat and wear it all the time.

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Denim Scrap Haori: Jackets were my jam this year and this one was as fun to sew as it is to wear.  I added topstitching everywhere just for the heck of it. I had an aha moment while making this. I love, love mixing and matching fabrics so much. As a result of this project, I actually tried a quilting project. More about that later.

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Carolyn Pajamas in Lady McElroy cotton lawn The joy in this make for me was placing the pattern pieces on the lively print in a way that was pleasing.  I love wearing these so much!

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Patchwork Linen Inari (Named Clothing) This project combines two of my big sewing loves….Linen and playing with fabric scraps.

IMG_4339 Isca Shirt Dress in linen: This is my go to dress during all seasons and will be forever. I love the gathers, the raised waist and the cool inset. I made two, but will likely make more!

Fails

I learn something from every project I make so when something doesn’t work, it’s usually easy to talk myself out of a funk.  Famous last words….

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Jasika Blazer – -Whoa…this was a huge fail that haunted me. I even made a mock up, but I still got the pocket placement too low. Unfortunately, I didn’t figure it out until the blazer was finished. The drape of the velvet was funky too, so wrong for this pattern.  It was no one’s fault but my own. Still, ouch. I have fabric for another one, but I think I’ll put this pattern away for a while!

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Farrah Jumpsuit (Sew Over It) Great pattern, but the style is just not me. I just can’t do it. Live and learn. I should stick with classic shapes.

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Freida top (Sew Over It) – Cute pattern, but wrong fabric. Yes, this fabric was on sale but it was not a good purchase. It’s really see-through. It’s already been donated.  I do like this pattern though. Perhaps I should make it again.

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I also made a quilt with scraps too which took me a bit out of my comfort zone, but I thoroughly enjoyed it. I will likely make another soon.

All in all, a pretty successful sewing year. Even though I was sewing alot, I didn’t post as often but when I did, I enjoyed it more. I hope to continue blogging this year, and to post on Instagram too. I try to keep a healthy relationship with Instagram but sometimes I fall prey to the desire to sew what’s trendy rather than what’s right for me. I hope this year I can keep that in check:).

Through this strange, sobering year, sewing has been my refuge. I’m so appreciative of the joy this lovely hobby gives me and of our community of makers. Thanks for reading! IMG_1704.jpeg

Fall Sewing: Carolyn Pajamas, the 1960’s coat, and the Stacker Jacket

Published on by ellegeemakes2 Comments

lindas collage copyHi All – With temperatures dropping, I’ve been inspired to sew ‘cozy’ clothes this Fall.  During November, I made a wool coat, a corduroy jacket and a pair of pajamas, and all are in heavy use. The truth is, my wardrobe needs have shifted during the pandemic. My daily uniform is a pair of jeans and a top, perfect for my usual outing, a walk in my neighborhood. Since there aren’t any social events to dress up for, I’ve enjoyed having a new coat or jacket to wear on my walks. Honestly, can you ever have too many?

The Sew Over It 1960’s Coat.

This coat pattern is a real winner from Sew Over It. The style is so classic.

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As a pattern insider, I received a free pattern before the general release and I was so excited to make it! From the photos, I expected the coat to be hard to sew, but it really wasn’t.

I cut my usual size based on my measurements and did a toile from a old sheet just to be sure. The bodice has some tapering, but the fit is relatively loose so I found fitting it to be easy.

IMG_4913 I splurged on fabric, a red boiled wool from the Mill End Store, here in Portland. I lined with red silk. I’m so glad I did because this coat is in heavy rotation in my wardrobe and it’s so lovely to slip your arms into silk. If you can sew a collar, set in sleeves and insert a lining, you will be good to go on this pattern. My only tip is not to use too heavy a wool as the lapels and collar might be hard to turn.

Stacker Jacket.

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The Stacker Jacket is from one of my favorite pattern companies, Papercut patterns. Not only is their packaging superb, their designs are so fresh. This jacket is no exception. It’s a ‘utility’  jacket, with a yoke for some interest, and great pockets. Honestly, I just can’t leave the house in anything without pockets!

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I used a lovely rust cordoroy for this jacket and plaid flannel for the liningm both from my stash. It’s such a cozy combination.  The buttons are vintage, found at an estate sale here in town.

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Altough this jacket is lined, it was a easy sew. The fit is loose so there isn’t anything tricky there. You can easily complete this project in a weekend!

Carolyn Pajamas

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My Minerva Make for Minerva Crafts.com this fall is a pair of Carolyn Pajamas, from Closet Core Patterns. Honestly, these pajamas are such a mood brightener!  I spend so much time in pajamas now, as I allow myself the luxury of lounging a bit more during the pandemic. This lovely Lady McElroy cotton lawn was given to me by Minerva Crafts, and you can find my post about this pattern on their blog (here)This pattern is so fun, and I will make it again and again.

IMG_5219Even though social events are discouraged in Oregon right now, I hope to sew something festive for the holidays in December. After all, even a Zoom cocktail party is worthy of a bit of dress up, don’t you think?

Happy sewing, stay healthy and thanks for stopping by.

My First Tamarack Jacket

Published on by ellegeemakes20 Comments

This jacket has been on my sewing to-do list for such a long time. I kept shuffling it to the bottom of the queue as I waited for a block of time to tackle it. Well, as you all know, I’ve got that time now!

The tamarack is quilted, making it perfect for those cooler evenings in spring and fall. For my first Tamarack (yes there will be others), I decided to use Merchant and Mills pre-quilted cotton. It’s such a lovely weight and texture, well worth the price. With this fabric, it isn’t really necessary to line the jacket, but I did anyway. I used an Nano Iro linen ( Bolt Fabric.) that’s so soft. I chose a contrasting lining so that it would would really show when the sleeves are rolled up. I finished the edges with self-made bias binding in linen (Josephine’s fabric). 

Even though I didn’t have to, I wanted the lining to be quilted, so I followed the lines already provided in my outer fabric. This was a fun, stress free way to go, and I highly recommend it!  I love how the extra quilting adds more texture to the bodice of the jacket. 

In order to get the fit I wanted, I shortened the jacket by 1 1/2 inches (I’m 5′ 4”). I love this modified length. The fit of the bodice seemed a little boxy for me so I tapered it a bit at the waist. 

The biggest construction challenge was the welt pockets. The quilted fabric is thick, making it tricky to get everything to lie flat. I decided to practice making a pocket with some thick fabric I had leftover from another project. I’m really glad I did. I felt pretty secure when I had to cut into my lovely quilted fabric. I do like the look of the welt pockets, but will likely use patch pockets next time so that the jacket will be reversible. If I had to do it over, I’d make this one reversible too, as I love the lining almost as much as the outside fabric! 

The other challenge with my thick quilt sandwich was sewing the binding around the edges. I used fabric clips I bought at Joann’s to hold the layers together as I sewed. 

Overall, this was a fun, satisfying project, and I highly recommend it. The construction of the jacket isn’t as challenging as it appears. There isn’t a collar to mess with for one thing. Also, the slow process of quilting the jacket was lovely and calming. In fact, it made me more curious about quilting in general. I may try to do a bit of improvisational quilting with my fabric scraps. What better time to play with new sewing experiences than now!

I hope you all are well and happy. Thanks for stopping by! 

A Burda Sweater Dress you can make in a day

Published on by ellegeemakes16 Comments

A simple pattern that feels stylish, and on-trend. There’s nothing better, eh?

The pattern for this sweater dress is one I’ve used before, traced patiently from a Burda style magazine pattern sheet. Once I’ve taken the time to trace a pattern, it’s always pleasing when I’m inspired to use it again!

This pattern is Burda 1/2019/111, destined to be a tried and true pattern for me. There are two things that attracted me to it ; the cocoon shape….

and the ‘audrey hepburn’ collar!

UNSPECIFIED – CIRCA 1955: Photo of Audrey Hepburn Photo by Michael Ochs Archives/Getty Images

In-seam pockets are so useful and stylish, don’t you think?

Construction Details: My fabric is a unusual textured knit I bought last year on sale at Joann’s. The knit is incredibly comfortable to wear, but I do have to admit, the stretch recovery is a bit on the relaxed side. As a result, the cocoon shape of this dress isn’t quite as pronounced as my last version (here.) Even though I’m a tad bit disappointed, the dress is fast becoming a favorite, worn over leggings, even jeans. Live and learn. I’ll be more careful when I choose knits for dresses in the future. Other than that, construction of this dress was pretty straightforward. I used my serger ( so easy) to sew and finish my seams. All in all, this dress only took about three hours!!

The Burda pattern magazine is so inspiring, but to be honest, I haven’t renewed my subscription for this year. The price tag is pretty hefty (in the States the price has increased to $100 per year), and I’d have to trace alot of patterns to make the montly investment pencil out. Instead, I’ve subscribed to the Burda on-line newsletter, (recently updated). I hope to get my monthly dose of Burda that way! We’ll see how long I can resist the urge to renew….

This weekend, I pulled a few pieces of linen and cotton from my fabric stash. I’m getting in the mood for Spring sewing. How about you?

Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by!

First Make of 2020: Another Cocoon Coat

Published on by ellegeemakes26 Comments

Happy New Year! This is my first make of 2020 and I am happy to say it was a success. It’s always good to start a new year with a project that you love.

I’ve made the Coccon Coat before (see it here), based on a version Sew Over It released as part of Lisa Comfort’s magazine. Now they’ve released it as a PDF pattern, available on their website (I received a free copy as a Pattern Insider). I loved the pattern so much the first time, I had to give it another go!

There are many things to love about this pattern. The cocoon shape of the coat is modern but classic. There are two piece sleeves and two pocket options. I chose the welt pockets, which can be challenging, but with their in-depth instructions made it seem easy.

Pattern Construction and Modifications: The Cocoon Coat is meant to be worn open, but that just isn’t an option that works very well in Oregon. So, I extended the front lapels by an inch and added hidden snaps to secure the opening. It changes the look of the lapel and collar a bit from the intended design, but I still like the look, and it makes it much more wearable for me. My coat is made of a good medium weight wool (Millendstore) and lined with silk from my stash.

Construction of this coat is a breeze. The lines are simple so there aren’t any tricky fit issues to resolve. I think the Cocoon coat would be a good option for someone who has never made a coat before.

2019 was a pretty successful sewing year for me with 39 blog posts:). It seems as though the number of sewing blogs has thinned out a bit in response to the growing presence of Instagram and the option to post quickly and often. I understand that, but I quite like the longer format of a blog post and the chance for a more detailed discussion. So, in 2020, I’ll continue to post here too. Thanks for reading and for keeping me company here.

Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by!

A New Gelato Top for the Holiday

Published on by ellegeemakes4 Comments

Yes, it’s a busy time of year, but I managed to squeeze in a bit of sewing…a Gelato top! This lovely relaxed top might be my holiday attire of choice. I don’t know about you, but on Christmas, I prefer a day of relaxed fun…cooking and eating with friends and family, playing games, sitting on the floor by the fire, maybe even a holiday movie! Given my agenda for the day, relaxed dress isn’t optional, but required. This gelato top in bright poppy and teal will work perfectly.

This pattern is lovely for many reasons, but the detail that caught my eye was the button-up back.

I first saw this top on the blog, Girls in the Garden. Lori’s version was so cute, I had to try to make my own. The cut of the top, is relaxed and loose, but fun and flirty. The Gelato top is designed by Liesl and Company. It comes with two views – – a top like mine or a long shift -style dress.

I quite like both options, don’t you?

I made my version out of a beautiful rayon with lovely drape. Because of the oversized nature of the bodice on this top, you wouldn’t want to make it from a stiff fabric.

Construction: The button back detail looks harder than it is. The tab for the buttons is made by folding the fabric twice and stitching. The toughest part is the buttons and button holes which I made with my machine. Fit was easy because it’s a loose fitting pattern. The neck is finished with bias binding…also quite easy! The top came together in three hours including pattern layout and cutting.

I love my new top and am so glad I squeezed a bit of sewing time into the holiday schedule.

Happy holidays and thanks for stopping by!

A New Look Knit Dress from Neglected Fabric

Published on by ellegeemakes15 Comments

Do you follow #magamsewalong on Instagram? I find the monthly sew alongs created by @suestoney and @sewinginspain to be so inspirational. This month’s theme is Neglected. The idea is to create a project using somethng you’ve ignored for too long. This fabric has languished in my stash for years. I have no idea where I bought it or why!  Now, finally, the neglected has become a dress.

You can see my friend Mitchell had to participate in this photo shoot. If I want some attention from him, I just put on a pair of black tights, LOL.

Knit dresses are really my wardrobe go-to at this time of year. (see others here and here). You can throw them on them over a pair of cozy leggings and still manage to look polished. 

Speaking of neglected…I’ve been using so many Indie sewing patterns, I’ve neglected the new offerings from the Big 4 pattern companies. A few weeks ago I took the time to peruse their Fall offerings. New Look 6632 caught my eye because of the princess seams and empire waist, details you can’t always find in a knit pattern. Also, it has in-seam front pockets…perfection!

Of course, I couldn’t resist using a bit of contrasting fabric on the side panels. It always feels good to use a remnant I’ve saved from an old project!

Construction of this dress was pretty easy. There isn’t a zipper. Instead, the dress slips over your head. I modified the pattern and finished the neck with a contrasting knit band instead of the suggested bias binding. I cut a size ten based on the pattern envelope measurements, and the pattern fit welll without adjustment. 

Of course, I had to make the optional cowl neck that’s removable…so cozy! I love my new dress made from neglected fabric. Thanks to #magamsewalong for inspiring me!

Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by!

A Kalle Shirtdress Becomes a Coat

Published on by ellegeemakes12 Comments

This week, I marked the beginning of Fall by completing my first cold-weather sewing project. My new denim walking coat was just the kind of project I needed to cope with ‘post vacation blues’. It’s a topstitching extravaganza, just the therapy I needed. Some sewists find topstitching to be stressful, but for me, the focus required is actually a relief that my brain craves when I’m down. 

My inspiration for this coat was a denim coat, designed by Madewell. I saw Cobie Smulders wear it on the already cancelled show, “Friends from College.” It’s a loose-fitting coat, made of mid-weight denim with a hidden placket and a tie belt. 

Although Colbie wore it as a dress on the show, I saw it as a long coat for Fall. Many of my knit dresses (here and here) are below my knees, so this coat will accomodate that length easily.

Pattern: To make the coat, I modified a tried and true pattern, the Kalle Shirt Dress. This pattern has so many options, I recommend it highly.

I chose this pattern because the fit is great, but loose and classic. To make it coat length, I added six inches to the bodice. To create the back vent, I eliminated the back pleat and added a seam instead, open at the bottom. Otherwise, I left the pattern pretty much as is.

 The orginal pattern has short sleeves, but I purchased the long sleeve extension from the Closet Case website. Instead of the classic french cuffs suggested by them, I eliminated the closure on the cuffs, and just folded them back.

Fabric: I used a medium weight denim from my stash for the with a darker denim for the collar, cuffs and pockets. The Kalle has one pocket, but I drafted three more. I used double topstitching on the pockets to make them pop.

I always love using a tried and true pattern in an unexpected way. As a coat, the Kalle does not disappoint! With this make, I’m officially accepting that Fall is here. It’s time to pull out the knits and wools from my stash and sew cozy

Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by!

Italy: My Favorite Linen Travel Dress

Published on by ellegeemakes8 Comments

Hi All! I had a wonderful trip to Italy and am now easing back into real life. I’m still battling the effects of the 9 hour time difference, but last night I slept through the night so things are looking up!

Although the weather here in Portland is a bit on the cool side, I wanted to share the dress I wore the most in Italy – – a linen dress that I finished the day we left, LOL!!! As usual, I decided at the last minute to add a dress to my travel wardrobe.

These photos were taken in the Villa Cimbrone Garden in Ravello Italy, a breath taking town perched on a cliff high above the Amalfi coast.

This linen dress was my go-to garment on the trip because the weather was warmer than expected. I thought I’d wear this dress with a tee shirt under it to protect my upper arms from the sun, but it was hot so the tee shirt stayed in the suitcase. I chose to stand in the shade often and managed to avoid a sunburn.

Dress Construction – To sew this dress, I modified my favorite loose fitting top pattern, the Grainline Hadley. The cut of this top is so flattering on everyone I think, with two neck options to choose from.

For the dress bodice, I used the sleeveless Hadley without the back pleat and lengthened the Hadley bodice by 6 inches. This became the A-line shaped bodice of the dress, complete with high – low hem.

The back button placket is a non-functional add on, just for looks. To make it, I sewed together two long strips of fabric then added buttons. After the placket was in place, I focussed on drafting the skirt. I cut two huge rectangles, that were 1 and a half times the bottom width of the Hadley. These I sewed together, then gathered and attached them to the bottom of the bodice. That’s all there was to it.

Fabric – Linen was the perfect fabric for Italy. It made me comfortable no matter what the weather. Personally, I could care less about the wrinkles. For this dress, I used a solid blue linen from my stash, purchased last season at the Mill End Store. The striped linen is from Joann’s.

This dress is so fun to wear!

Swinging wasn’t in my vacation plans, but when you’re on the Amalfi coast, why not? I enjoyed wearing linen so much on my trip, I’m determined to find ways to sew with it year round! Any thoughts on this idea?

Sewing plans – As the travel fog lifts and I put away my summer clothes, I know I’ll be inspired to sew a few fall things. I hope there will be a new trench coat, maybe a short wool coat too so watch for those posts.

Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by!

My ‘go-to’ outfit: wide leg pants and a safari style top

Published on by ellegeemakes13 Comments
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Each season, there’s one me-made outfit that seems to rise above the rest. This one is it! A pair of cropped, wide-legged pants and a linen Fringe top – -nothing unusual or particularly earth shattering about these makes. Yet,  I find myself reaching for them over and over again.

Honestly, these pants are the best thing I’ve made in a long while!

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Like every other sewing blogger, I have fallen in love with wide legged pants.  They have the double appeal of being stylish and easy-to-wear.  The fact that these were an easy ‘sew’ is the icing on the cake!

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Simplicity 8841 is an easy-to-sew pattern with a elastic waist and huge pockets. There’s a straightlegged version and a wide legged version, cropped or full length. I went for the wide-legged cropped version, a look I’ve really grown to love.

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I chose lightweight cotton chambray for this version. The fabric is so soft, these pants qualify as secret pajamas for sure! There are belt loops and a belt as well, so if I want to tuck something in, the elastic waist is well hidden.

This modified Fringe top is the perfect mate for these pants.

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If you aren’t familiar with Chalk and Notch’s Fringe blouse/dress pattern, I can highly recommend it! It was the darling of Instagram for a while, and I fell in love with the many variations I saw there. Search the #fringedresspattern hastag on Instagram and you’ll see what I mean!

To make my top, I modified View A to give it a bit more of a Safari vibe. I left the upper bodice and neckline as designed (and they fit like a dream!).  Then, instead of gathering the bottom bodice panel,  I cut it to fit the measurement of the upper bodice lower seam, plus a seam allowance. I also drafted darts on the lower bodice to mimic those on the upper bodice. The pattern suggests you insert the ties in the side seams or in the back bodice darts. I chose to put them in the back darts, and I think that’s part of the reason the bodice fits so well. I love the sleeve cuffs and the button tabs.

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The appeal of this pattern for me is the lovely v-neck and spot on fit of the bodice. I’ve already cut a dress version, and am interested in another top, likely another modified version. Yes, I was late to the Fringe dress party, but better late than never. This pattern will be a tried and true that will take me into Fall as well.

Fall sewing is on my mind, as well as a few added wardrobe items for a trip to Italy in September. My sewing machine is fired up and ready for a marathon of projects this month, so watch for more blog posts. There will be a few….:) Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by!