2020 in Review: Sewing Hits and Misses

Hi all – -Even though 2020 has been rough, I do look forward to reviewing my hits and misses each year. So in spite of the fact that I’d like to forget much of this year quickly, here we go!

Some hits……

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The Tamarack Jacket (Grainline). Can I just say, what took me so long? I love wearing this jacket both outside and in. It is my go to ‘topper’ and I hope to make another one soon. This quilted Merchant and Mills fabric was such a fabulous splurge, but worth every penny. It makes this jacket such a pleasure to wear.

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Kantha Cloth Haori (Wiksten) – -Yes, there is a bit of a theme developing here…my new found love of quilted jackets! The colors in this fabric make me smile and the chambray lining is fabulous against the skin. If you haven’t made a Wiksten Haori, reconsider!

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1960s coat (Sew Over It) This was a challenging make but so worth the effort. The boucle wool was a splurge and I lined the coat in silk, a investment I will never regret. I love the classic style of this coat and wear it all the time.

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Denim Scrap Haori: Jackets were my jam this year and this one was as fun to sew as it is to wear.  I added topstitching everywhere just for the heck of it. I had an aha moment while making this. I love, love mixing and matching fabrics so much. As a result of this project, I actually tried a quilting project. More about that later.

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Carolyn Pajamas in Lady McElroy cotton lawn The joy in this make for me was placing the pattern pieces on the lively print in a way that was pleasing.  I love wearing these so much!

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Patchwork Linen Inari (Named Clothing) This project combines two of my big sewing loves….Linen and playing with fabric scraps.

IMG_4339 Isca Shirt Dress in linen: This is my go to dress during all seasons and will be forever. I love the gathers, the raised waist and the cool inset. I made two, but will likely make more!

Fails

I learn something from every project I make so when something doesn’t work, it’s usually easy to talk myself out of a funk.  Famous last words….

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Jasika Blazer – -Whoa…this was a huge fail that haunted me. I even made a mock up, but I still got the pocket placement too low. Unfortunately, I didn’t figure it out until the blazer was finished. The drape of the velvet was funky too, so wrong for this pattern.  It was no one’s fault but my own. Still, ouch. I have fabric for another one, but I think I’ll put this pattern away for a while!

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Farrah Jumpsuit (Sew Over It) Great pattern, but the style is just not me. I just can’t do it. Live and learn. I should stick with classic shapes.

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Freida top (Sew Over It) – Cute pattern, but wrong fabric. Yes, this fabric was on sale but it was not a good purchase. It’s really see-through. It’s already been donated.  I do like this pattern though. Perhaps I should make it again.

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I also made a quilt with scraps too which took me a bit out of my comfort zone, but I thoroughly enjoyed it. I will likely make another soon.

All in all, a pretty successful sewing year. Even though I was sewing alot, I didn’t post as often but when I did, I enjoyed it more. I hope to continue blogging this year, and to post on Instagram too. I try to keep a healthy relationship with Instagram but sometimes I fall prey to the desire to sew what’s trendy rather than what’s right for me. I hope this year I can keep that in check:).

Through this strange, sobering year, sewing has been my refuge. I’m so appreciative of the joy this lovely hobby gives me and of our community of makers. Thanks for reading! IMG_1704.jpeg

A Wiksten Haori in Kantha Cloth

I don’t know about you, but I’m craving a bit of ‘normal’ right now. So let’s just dive into the details of this new make, a Wiksten Haori jacket. 

If you haven’t tried this pattern, you’re missing out on some fun! It’s a chance to use your favorite fabrics in a way that makes them so wearable. This is my third Haori (others posted here and here), and I’m sure there will be more. 

This is an unstructured, loose-fitting jacket with three length variations, short, medium and long. I prefer the short, cropped version on me as I really like the proportions, but I’m in love with some of the longer versions I’ve seen in wool, so I might try one of those too. 

This jacket looks more complicated than it is. If you can sew a straight seam, you can make this jacket. Yes, it is lined but that’s nothing to worry about because creating the lining is simple. You just sew another jacket from your lining material and attach the two at the bottom seam.  The only modification I made to the pattern was to leave the interfacing out of the collar band as my fabric was stiff enough.

The beauty of the Haori is that it really allows the fabric to shine. My fabric is a Kantha cloth. I found a piece at Modern Domestic then found a bit more  at Cool Cottons, here in Portland. It’s amazing fabric with beautiful colors and the layers of cloth are stitched together with a long quilting stitch. It makes me happy just looking at it!  I’m wearing it with the linen shirt I made from a japanese pattern book (posted here.) I think they work well together.

Sewing is such a stress reliever for me. In these challenging times, I’m grateful that I have a pastime that comforts me, and a community to share it with. Hang in there all, and thanks for stopping by! 

Waiting for Spring in my Wiksten Haori Jacket

IMG_4450Well, it’s official. I am now a big fan of the Wiksten Haori jacket.

 

I might be the last blogger to make this lovely jacket. I avoided this pattern at first, as I prefer fitted jackets to loose-fitting styles. But on a recent visit to a local fabric store (Bolt, such a great store!! ), I tried on their sample version of the Haori, and it was love at first wear. Yes, the style is a bit boxy and unstructured, but that’s the beauty of it!

IMG_4613My first version (yes there will be others) was inspired by a change of weather here in Oregon. We had a few ‘teaser’ days last week that felt like Spring, but now, temperatures are cold again and it’s damp. I still need to wear a cozy layer, so my Haori is made from a wool blend, lined with linen. The wool fights the damp fearlessly, while the linen makes it wearable. Because the design is a loose fit, a fabric with some body (like linen, wool, cotton canvas) is a good thing…it really gives the stylish details some support.

 

 

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The design of the Haori jacket is simple in concept. It’s two jackets bound together by a common front facing/lapel; brilliant really and quite easy to sew. I am a fan of this construction method, as the inside of the jacket has such a clean finish, and it makes the jacket reversible too.

IMG_4514Even though my measurements put me at a small, I cut the extra small and still had room to spare. You might want to consider sizing down. This version is the ‘short’ version. I worried a bit about the length as it was described as ‘cropped’, but in reality, on my 5′ 4″ frame, the length is perfectly fine – – it hits just above the hips. You can see the longer version on Instagram (#wikstenhaori).  So many lovely versions to enjoy!

IMG_4487 2Construction is pretty straightforward. The sleeves are inserted before you sew the side seams so you don’t have to set them in…a big win if you ask me! The pockets are patch pockets that are top-stitched…also very simple. It took me about 2 and a half hours to put together.

 

 

 

Choosing fabric – – one thing to remember is that the front facing/lapel is cut from the lining fabric, so you need to choose a lining fabric that compliments the fabric of the body of the jacket. Also, the sleeves are rolled up, so that’s another chance for your lining fabric to be a cool design element. A fabric with some body is key to help the jacket hold its shape. My wool is pretty soft, but my linen has some crispness to it, so the combo worked well. The lapels are interfaced too, which helps give the style some structure.

IMG_4634I love the weight of this jacket. It’s perfect for this time of the year. But I’m already planning a linen version (or two) for warmer weather, maybe a quilted version for Fall. Really, with this style, the options are endless! If everything in my closet was this lovely to wear, life would seem easy indeed.

I’m really enjoying everyone’s #sewhappycolor posts on Instagram – I’m inspired to add more color to my wardrobe this Spring! Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by.