Two Tops with a Difference from Burda Style

I have always looked forward to each issue of Burda Style, but the inspiration I’ve found in the last couple of issues has been amazing. The March issue had so many options I wanted to explore, I abandoned my other sewing projects in favor of a bit of quick gratification. Here are some of the items in the March issue that I found especially appealing.

BeFunky-collageI love (!!) the two mint green jackets. I’m sure you’ll see a few from this collection here over the next few months!

To start though, I focussed on two tops that looked simple but satisfying. The first (3/2019, 112) has assymmetrical gathering in the front, a challenge that looked stylish and comfortable.

You can see from the drawing, that there are some interesting seams and gathers involved. There was no way I could resist this pattern! From the photo above, it looks like the pattern is made from a knit, but it’s actually for wovens. I noticed that this pattern is also available in the Burda pattern book so if you want to avoid the ordeal of tracing this one, hurry down to Joann’s and it will be yours.

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Construction challenges: The difficulty rating Burda gives this pattern is three dots (intermediate). At first glance, I couldn’t imagine why, but it was a bit of challenge. To make life easy for yourself, choose a lightweight fabric with a good amount of drape (I chose rayon). Then, cut out and mark the pattern carefully, paying close attention to the placement of the gathers. If you add gathers where there aren’t supposed to be any (even just a bit!), the front will not hang correctly. Trust me, I found out the hard way, LOL. My rayon is really lovely with a drape that reminds me of silk. But it does not like to be unpicked. So, when I extended the gathers a bit too far, it wasn’t fun correcting my mistake. But I love the assyemtrical gathering here – so worth it!

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My second make (3/2019/104) is pretty straightforward. It also requires a fabric with good drape (in my opinion), although Burda recommends cotton shirting for one version of this pattern.

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Well, when I saw the drop shoulders and the big gathered sleeves, it was all over for me:). There weren’t too many challenges here. I cut my usual size but was amazed at how large the neck opening was. Since I have narrow shoulders, I knew that would be a disaster, so I took out 5/8 inch at the center back to correct this. I’m so glad I did, because as you can see, it is still a generous neck-line. I used a rayon that’s almost a gauze, and finished all seams with my serger. I absolutely love these sleeves and they weren’t difficult at all. You just gather the fullness into some cuffs and call it good.

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I’d love to try this in another more colorful fabric for spring, maybe a rayon batik or a double gauze. I was very tempted to head to the fabric store after I completed this version, but fought the urge as I’m trying to sew from my stash. My rule this year is for every three pieces I use in my stash, I can buy one. So, eventually, I will be shopping again!

I’m happy with both of my tops – – they were well worth the time it took to trace the patterns from the magazine insert. Perhaps these two successes are a sign from the universe that my wish-list from the issue should be fully pursued!

#So50visible Instagram Challenge: However, my love for Burda these days does not change the fact that I am less than pleased at their blatent disregard for the sewist who is over 50. Of course, they are not the only company who chooses to ignore us. The Big Four are no better. Have you seen the #So50Visible challenge on Instagram? When you look at pattern catalogs/magazines, it is rare to see a model that is over 50. This is so disheartening to those of us who have supported the Big Four companies for so many years. We’re a huge part of the sewing community and the market – we cannot be ignored. So, find a pattern that features a over 50 model, make it and post it to celebrate how wonderful we all are no matter what our age. I’ll be participating in the  challenge and hope you will join me, no matter what your age.

Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by!

 

Sew Twists and Ties: the Ruska Knot Dress

 

When Named Clothing released their book, Breaking the Pattern, I could hardly wait to get my hands on it! I’m not a big fan of sewing books, but the Named Clothing designs really appeal to me (here, here, and here, ). Their modern, pared-down vibe is so contemporary and elegant. So, I asked Santa for a copy and he delivered.

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The book was even better than I expected. Breaking the Pattern is all about taking their basic patterns, and ‘breaking’ them apart with variations and hacks. The book comes with ten patterns with two variations each and instructions on how to do more. In fact, the ten patterns in the book can generate fifty variations (!!) which makes this book and its patterns an economical choice. The ‘easy’ patterns are at the beginning of the book..the hard ones at the end. All the patterns are included  – – you trace the ones you like.

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The Ruska knit dress caught my eye right away which isn’t a big surprise. These days, I’m really drawn to knit dresses. After watching a few episodes of Marie Kondo ‘tidying up’, I’ve been ‘Kondoing’ my wardrobe. Guess what! Knit dresses and tops consistently bring me joy (secret pajamas!!). They make great layering pieces too over tights, leggings, even jeans.

 

 

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The Ruska can be made as a basic dress, a tee or with a knotted tie in the front. It’s probably no surprise to anyone that I immediately went for the version with the knot in the front, LOL! Admittedly, I do have a ‘thing’ for ties, knots and twists (proof available here, here and here.) And, there’s a challenge on Instagram this month, hosted by Meg from Cookin and Craftin, Sew Twists and Ties, which I just can’t resist!

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For the dress, a firm knit with good recovery is recommended. For my first version (the aubergine version above), I used stretch velor (Britex.com) with medium stretch, but not great recovery. Yes, this fabric is a bit thick for this dress, but I have been trying for years to re-create a stretchy velor dress I had in high school! The dress turned out well, especially when you consider the fabric wasn’t perfect. The fit was good without fuss, and it felt stylish and comfortable So, I couldn’t resist trying the Ruska again with a another knit fabric.

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This knit from Joann’s is fabulous; a wool blend with great recovery. There’s such a difference in the look and feel of this dress. I made this version long (midi length) for fun. We’ll see if I leave it that long, LOL. I tend to favor shorter dresses because I feel more energetic in them for some reason. Maybe it’s the fabric against my legs that makes the difference? Obviously, the drape of this knit is better for the dress, and the fit is sleeker too.

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This dress went together quickly, and the instructions in the book were easy to follow. I was so pleased with the fit. I found my measurements on the size chart in the book and found it accurate. There really weren’t any construction challenges. The knot and tie look trickier to sew than they really are. The tie is part of an overlay piece that just fits over the basic dress and is attached at the shoulder and side seams.  The edges of the tie are finished with a narrow machine hem. Easy!

I’m giving this pattern a big thumbs up! The fit of the Ruska is such a winner for me, I’m going to use the basic tee option to sew to fill some gaps in my basic wardrobe. I’ll make the Ruska this summer with a colorful jersey, maybe even a stripe.

Yay!! A couple of new dresses that will ‘bring me joy’. (Are any of you as focussed as I am on ‘Kondoing’ my wardrobe, my house, my life???) This pattern was a great way to ease into using this book. I can’t wait to try a some of other patterns this Spring.

If you’ve been on the fence about buying it, give it a look. Yes, you have to trace the patterns, but the sheets aren’t nearly as crazy as they could be (Burda Style, anyone?).

Thanks to Meg at Cookin and Craftin for hosting this fun challenge! Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by.

A off-the-shoulder look inspired by Theory

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As you all know, I love a good designer knock-off, and Theory is one of my favorite designer lines. Last fall, a friend of mine wore the Theory shirt (on the left) to a dinner at my house, and I was smitten. She wore the shirt a bit off the shoulder and I loved the way the the gathered neckline was created by a drawstring.

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To create my knock off version, I used Simplicity 8550 as a template.

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The best news about this pattern is that I found it for a $1.99 at Joann’s!!  I have so many sewing patterns, I can only justify an addition if it’s a bargain. Yes, Indie patterns are great options, but you can’t beat the price when the Big Four go on sale.

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The neckline of the Simplicity top is similar to the Theory shirt in design, but it’s a bit wider. Also, it doesn’t have a drawstring closure.PicMonkey Collage-6To add a drawstring at the neckline: First, I adjusted the neck opening to make it a bit smaller. To do this, I took a half an inch out of the front and back bodice pattern at the center front and center back. Because the cut of this shirt is so loose in the shoulders and bodice, that adjustment did nothing to the comfort or fit of the top. To make the channel for the drawstring (a simple black ribbon), I replaced the neck facing with a strip of bias tape, and inserted the ribbon through that. Pretty simple modification…

Other adjustments: I tapered the bodice a bit by adding two eyelash darts in the back from the shoulders to the waist. Even though the Theory shirt is collarless, I couldn’t resist adding some drama with a big collar.

I was tempted to use Chambray for the top for my knock off, but decided I have too much blue in my wardrobe. It’s time for a new color…red! This cotton is from Fabric Depot and it has just the right amount of body for the collar – yet isn’t too stiff for the drawstring/gathered neck.

 

 

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This top was definitely a fly-by-the-seat-of-my-pants project, and I feel lucky that it turned out so well:) I love the fact that, with a tug on the drawstring, I can adjust the neckline of this shirt as the mood strikes. The color is nice for a change too. This top won’t be a wardrobe orphan because it works so well with my favorite Ginger jeans and with my denim skirt too.

Well, I think this officially begins my summer sewing. Fingers crossed that I get to wear it soon! Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by!