Category: linen

Greeting Fall with two Isca Shirt Dresses

Published on by ellegeemakes10 Comments

IMG_4339

Hi all. It’s been awhile since I’ve posted and I hope this finds you well! In September, I took a break from sewing for most of the month. We took a road trip through Yellowstone and the Tetons. During our trip, the hardest worker in my wardrobe was, hands down, my quilted Tamarack Jacket.

IMG_2734

I wore it everywhere, even hiking. The Merchant and Mills quilted cotton was just the right weight for cooler days, but also light and comfortable when it was warm. I hope there’s more of that fabric in my future! The jacket is so comfortable, I’m contemplating making another. (Here’s my previous post on the jacket if you’re interested.)

But on to the Isca Shirtdress by Marilla Walker.

IMG_4317 2

Before the trip, I decided a longer sleeved linen shirtdress would be a great travel dress. I couldn’t resist downloading the Isca Shirt dress, a pattern by Marilla Walker. It has a cool v-shaped yoke detailing on the bodice. And the pockets are perfection! Luckily, I had a big enough piece of linen in my stash.

To make the front inset stand out, I wanted the plaid to be on the diagonal, so I cut those two pieces on the bias.

IMG_4348

Construction was generally a breeze, but I did found the front bodice to be challenging. It’s meant to wrap over the shoulder apex and attach to the back bodice. That made it a very strange looking pattern piece! It threw me and I had to study the diagrams carefully to figure it out which pieces were seamed where. Once I saw the ‘light’, the construction was simple. My advice is to trust the pattern instructions, even though at first glance, it seems counter intuitive.

The fit is pretty forgiving (as in loose). I cut the smallest size but ended up taking in the side seams to adjust the volume of the skirt. If you’re between sizes you might want to size down. I shortened the length of the bodice by two inches because I’m short waisted.

I love, love the finished product. In fact, so much so, I quickly made another version out of a navy linen I bought last year in Rome (wow that seems like ages ago….).

IMG_1546

This linen is so wonderful to sew, and it has just the right drape for this project. You don’t want a stiff linen for this dress because of the gathers.

IMG_1643 2

I’m certain both dresses will get alot of wear once I have somewhere to go, LOL!

These are strange times and my routines have shifted in ways I never expected. Some days, I feel productive, and other days I seem to just be ‘marking time’. For me, having a sewing project to complete really helps. There’s something almost meditative about the process of making by hand. I feel so lucky to have a passion that makes me feel better and friends to share it with.

Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by.

#featured, #linen, #shirt-dress, #summer-wardrobe, #travel-wardrobe

ellegeemakes | October 11, 2020 at 1:25 pm | Tags: featured, linen, shirt dress, summer wardrobe, travel wardrobe | Categories: capsule wardrobe, dress pattern, linen, shirt dress, Uncategorized | URL: https://wp.me/p5M1Tl-4vk
Comment See all comments
Unsubscribe to no longer receive posts from Elle Gee Makes.
Change your email settings at Manage Subscriptions.

Trouble clicking? Copy and paste this URL into your browser:

Greeting Fall with two Isca Shirt Dresses

 

Summer Making Journal 2: a Patchwork top, Inari hacks and Free Range Slacks

Published on by ellegeemakes6 Comments

IMG_1094Hi all! July was a busy month in the sewing room. Recently, I cleaned my closet and donated several ragged tops (made so long ago!). I’ve been on a mission to replace them, while honoring a pledge I made to myself to use up my remnants. That pledge led me here…to my first pieced top.

IMG_1116I have never been able to throw away even the smallest scrap of linen. It’s too wonderful to toss! So, when the #JoinupJuly challenge started on Instagram, I was challenged to join up some of my linen scraps into a top.

The process of making a patchwork top isn’t difficult at all. Basically, with a quarter inch seam, you piece blocks and bits of fabric together, varying the colors. Then, when your pieced creation is large enough, you lay your pattern pieces on it and cut! My top is made using the Inari pattern from Named clothing(also made here). The lines are simple so it showcases piece work nicely.  It was so fun to figure out how to combine the linens into a pleasing pattern.

IMG_1185Here, I’m wearing my new pieced Inari with my first ever Free Range Slacks,a lovely pattern from Sew House Seven. I’ve been wanting to make these pants for ages. I used linen from my stash for this version.  I love the boxy shape of the pants, the cool seams and the deep pockets. But I found the fit to be more generous than I expected. Because the pants are high waisted and I’m short waisted, the fit of the rise was challenging. I’m pleased with the result, but my advice is to remember the loose fit when you’re choosing the size to cut. A toile would be a good idea too!

IMG_1153As you can see, the fit isn’t perfect yet. There are creases in the crouch. I’ll adjust the rise a bit more next time.

IMG_1339Here’s another Inari, this one with sleeves. I made this from rayon scraps left over from my Sew Over It Wrap skirt (see it here).I do love this rayon! It’s from art Gallery and it is so sumptious to wear. It flows so nicely too! This pattern, the Inari, is a keeper too, simple but stylish and so easy to modify to make it your own! The shorts I’m wearing are Simplicity 8841. This is a easy pattern with great fit! It has a elastic waist so you can make it quickly.IMG_1238I’m wearing my Inari here with the paper bag Burda shorts I made last summer (Here)…Love these! The linen just gets better with time. I wear them constantly!

My last Inari was also made from linen scraps, left overs from this summer dress.IMG_1274Again I used the Inari. Because I had oddly shaped pieces of fabric, I had only enough for a cropped version of the front and back bodice. So, I added a short peplum also pieced from scraps. Luckily the gathering of the peplum hides the many seams:). The sleeve bands are cut from a contrast linen.

That’s it for me for now. I’m in the process of cleaning and reorganizing my sewing room using Ikea modular shelves. And even though I recently reorganized my stash, I’m revisiting the scheme. Isn’t that the way it is with this hobby? It seems like there’s always a better way to organize your fabric, notions and patterns.

Stay safe and healthy. Happy sewing! Thanks for stopping by.

 

My Sew Over It London Summer Capsule Wardrobe

Published on by ellegeemakes4 Comments

It’s been awhile since I’ve written. It’s been hard to imagine posting smiling photos of me in new clothes when there’s anger, hurt and death because of the systematic racism that surrounds us (during a global pandemic, no less). I’ve learned that I know very little about the daily experience of being black. So, I want to say that I’m committed to listening and learning. I support #Blacklivesmatter and am looking to the leadership and posts from @blkmakersmatter on IG. As my first action step, I am committing to making my sewing dollars count by buying from only those organizations that support anti-racism, equality and inclusion. 

Creating anything….art, clothes, music, helps us find our best selves. So in that spirit, I share what I’ve been sewing lately….

Summer-Dreaming-eBook-New

This month, Sew Over It London launched a beautiful ebook calledSummer Dreaming.Tech-Drawings-700.pngIt includes a collection of  patterns that comprise a capsule wardrobe for summer. As a Pattern Insider, I had the opportuitiy to try the patterns before release. So today, I offer an overview of the pieces I made from that collection.

IMG_9786

The key piece in my capsule is the Sorrento Jacket. It’s designed with lots of fun seams, pockets and tabs at the waist. Since I’m a big fan of topstitching, I could hardly wait to sink my teeth into this one. And it did not disappoint!  I was a little concerned about the length of the jacket since I’m short-waisted and only 5’ 4”. The sizing of this pattern was spot on for me. I did do a tissue fitting, paying attention to the shoulders and waistline. In the end, I decided to leave all as is and the fit is good!

IMG_0070.jpeg

 

The double seams in the front are so retro and cool. It’s well worth the time required to make it. If I had to say, I’d rate the skills required to make the jacket at intermediate level. Collar insertion and cuffs are required which can be a bit challenging, but the instructions are very complete. There’s lots of topstitching on the jacket which takes time, but I personally love sewing projects with alot of detail. I used a light gray thread to make the stitching pop. I chose medium weight denim and I’m glad I didn’t go any heavier. A heavy denim would make it difficult to get the thick seams pressed and topstitched, so I’d stick with a light to medium weight denim.

IMG_9312

Next up is the Ravello dress… a lovely versatile pattern. You can make it as a dress (long or short) or you can crop it as a top. I made it three ways, as a short dress, a cropped wrap top in linen and also another wrap top in Liberty cotton. The dress is a breeze to make, and is perfect for a beginner. It isn’t lined, so beware of picking a sheer fabric. A linen, lightweight cotton or rayon would be my choices for this pattern. It’s a quick make as the kimono style sleeves are cut into the bodice – – you can make this one in an afternoon. I love my top versions too, and want to make a long dress in the future.

Here’s the long wrap top version.

IMG_0220

And here’s the cropped linen version with the skirt of my Siena sun dress.

2F7C2A2F-736F-4E22-9FA8-09EAA76ABED9_1_105_c

 

The most challenging piece of all in the collection has to be the Siena dress!

IMG_0278

It can be made into a one piece sundress or made as separates ( a camisole style top and skirt). I love to mix and match so I chose the separates version. The dress has a shirred back and since I’d never tried shirring before I had to give this a whirl. It’s a fun process and not to hard to do. The top wasn’t the easiest piece to fit but end result was worth it. I made both pieces from linen. Rayon or cotton would work well too. I absolutely love the skirt. It will be in heavy rotation throughout the summer.

IMG_9801 2

My last make from the collection was the Alba skirt.

IMG_0014

This skirt is what summer dressing is all about! It’s a simple wrap skirt that you can make with or without a ruffle. I made it without the ruffle and it was such a fast easy make. A flowy fabric like rayon is best for this skirt. I like to wear it with a tee shirt, or with my Ravello top or my Sorrento jacket!

IMG_0071.jpeg

This collection really would be perfect for travel (when we can safely do that again! ). The patterns are at a variety of sewing levels so there’s something here for everyone. I’ll use the jacket, dress and skirt patterns again and again. Thanks to Sew Over It for giving me the chance to try out these lovely patterns!

Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by.

Four Linen LB Pull Overs

Published on by ellegeemakes4 Comments

Even though I didn’t post photos during Me Made May, I’ve been taking stock of my me-made wardrobe. To my surprise, my Spring wardrobe includes 4 linen LB pullovers! What’s even more surprising, is that I’ve never written a blog post about one of my favorite patterns. It’s time to rectify that situation.

If you’re unfamiliar with the LB pullover by Paper Theory, here’s a quick run down. It’s a loose-fitting top that is suitable for wovens or knits. It has drop shoulders and long sleeves which you can modify to any length you want. There are two neck finishes, a turtleneck version or crew neck. I love this pattern because the look changes with your fabric choice. Also, it’s fun to hack!

My first linen version was simple.

This is a straightforward, out of the box version from lightweight linen (Josephines fabric.) Instant love. Immediately, I cut another in a lightweight linen (from Britex).

This time, I cropped the bodice by 6 inches and added a 8 inch peplum. To figure out how wide to make the peplum, I measured the width of the fabric at the bottom of the bodice and multiplied that by 1 1/2. Then I gathered the peplum using long stitches before stitching it to the shortened bodice. So easy! I love the loose fit of this version.

I used a remnant in my stash for this violet colored version. I absolutley love the soft feel of this linen. I cropped this version a bit, shortening the bodice by three inches. The sleeves are 3/4 length and I love to roll them up. I used the turtle neck pattern, but took a 1.5 inches off the width. This top is so easy to wear. It’s in heavy rotation.

This last version is color blocked with two linen remnants.

When the weather is hot, this hankerchief linen version is my favorite. It’s so great to work with a pattern that looks so different based on your fabric choice. I have two more LB pullovers on my cutting table, this time in knit fabrics. More on those in another post.

I hope you are well and happy during this strange, challenging time. I am grateful for the joy sewing brings and for our fabulous community of makers. Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by!

 

 

A Nano Iro Summer Coat

Published on by ellegeemakes4 Comments

I told myself when the ‘stay at home’ time began, that I would use it as an opportunity to tackle sewing projects that were either time consuming or that had been on my to-do list for awhile. This project falls into both categories.

This coat is from the Nano Iro sewing book, by far my favorite sewing purchase of 2019! I love japanese sewing patterns, and here, they are conveniently translated. 

This pattern is called, appropriately, the summer coat. It’s unlined and best made in cotton or linen, two fabrics I can’t get enough of. I made it before, here and absolutely love wearing it. 

For this version of the summer coat, I used a really special piece of fabric I purchased in Rome last September at an amazing fabric store, Azienda Tessile Romana. 

If you visit Rome, do not miss this fabric store. The fabrics are gorgeous and when I visited, the staff was so helpful and generous with their time. You will not be disappointed. (Hopefully, we’ll all be free to visit there soon.) 

This fabric is a amazing cotton Jacquard and the texture is perfect for this coat (Black is hard to photograph, and these photos don’t do justice to this fabric!) It has just enough body to support the lapels and to give this loose-fitting coat a bit of structure. I wish I had more of this fabulous fabric!

Construction of the coat was easy. The lapels are cut into the coat, then faced. The trickest part for me was the neck facing. Even though I’d made this pattern before, I must admit, I struggled! The diagrams in the instructions helped, but for some reason, it was counterintuitive for me. I couldn’t make the facing fit to the jacket. Eventually, I realized it was because I was trying to fit the wrong side of the facing to the neck opening. Once I came to terms with that, it fit easily. 

I do love this jacket. In fact, the patterns in this book are all on my to-do list. The photos in this book are inspirational too. The fabrics they chose are enviable – – double gauzes and linens in bright colors.  I’m so glad I ticked this coat off my to-do list as it will be absolutely perfect to wear on cool Spring days.

Next up is a Tamarack Jacket. I hope to show that to you soon. 

Sewing is helping me to get through these strange days. Good health and happiness to you all. Thanks for stopping by! 

Sew Over It Farrah Jumpsuit

Published on by ellegeemakes10 Comments

Hi All. The Farrah I’m wearing is a new pattern from Sew Over It, just released this week. As a Pattern Insider, I got a copy in advance. I love anything that has a utility look to it, so this boilersuit caught my interest right away. It gives functional a fresh look with big flapped pockets and a button-down front.

I made my version of the Farrah from a medium weight cotton- linen blend. I think the drape of this fabric really contributes to how I feel about this make. For the Farrah, any medium weight woven will work (cotton twill, corduroy, linen, stretch denim). In my opinion though, the softer the better. With a soft fabric, the elastic waist doesn’t bunch at all.

The pattern is designed with a good amount of ease so fitting this pattern to my own figure wasn’t hard. The only adjustment I had to make was to shorten the bodice by about an inch. I’m 5′ 4″ with a short waist so I expected this would be the case.

It’s quite comfortable to wear. The oversize style contributes to this as does the elastic waist. I did make one change to the pattern. I dropped the flaps from the lower pockets because I wanted to be able to stick my hands and cell phone in there easily. The pockets are roomy, perfect for my phone or wallet and I’m glad I made that change!

Although the Farrah style was a bit out of my comfort zone, I’m so glad I gave it a try. The one piece look is definitely on trend now and I enjoy wearing this so much. I could imagine another version of this pattern in a rust or olive colored corduroy. There are lots of cool versions popping up on Instagram, so check them out for inspiration.

Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by!

P.S.. I received a copy of the Farrah for free, but the opinions expressed here are my own.

Sewing a Patchwork Shirt from Remnants

Published on by ellegeemakes16 Comments

If you’ve been sewing for as long as I have, you’ve likely accumulated a large stash of fabric remnants. I find it hard/impossible to part with the lovely leftover bits when I’ve finished a project, so my remnant stash is HUGE, and overwhelming. Recently, I decided to sort and catalog the pieces. That’s when I made a lovely discovery… the colors and textures all work together.

So I decided to use the pieces to make this shirt.

Pattern: For my project, I used a tried and true shirt pattern so that fit would not be an issue. McCalls 6124 has a back yoke, two piece sleeves, a collar band and princess seams…so many opportunities to explore!

Process: Because I patchworked both the front and back, I was able to use three types of shirting and three colors of linen, about a quarter of a yard of each. Sewing was easy as I’ve made this shirt a time or two.

The best part of this project was figuring out fabric coordination and placement. In fact, I enjoyed it so much, I had a ‘moment’ when I imagined myself as a quilter. (Just what I need…a new reason to accumulate fabric, LOL!!)

I’m pleased with my shirt and am so glad my remnant stash has shrunk a bit. The good news is my shirt works well with the denim skirt I made a couple of years ago, so I know it will be worn again and again.

Of course, I’ll still be on the look out for new ways to use my lovely leftovers, so if you have ideas…please share!

Although I’ve had a bit of a challenge easing back into sewing ‘post vacation’, I’m definitely inspired by the Fall colors here in Oregon. Our cool weather has me thinking about sweaters and jackets and coats…ideas are brewing! How about you?

Happy sewing, and thanks for stopping by.

Italy: My Favorite Linen Travel Dress

Published on by ellegeemakes8 Comments

Hi All! I had a wonderful trip to Italy and am now easing back into real life. I’m still battling the effects of the 9 hour time difference, but last night I slept through the night so things are looking up!

Although the weather here in Portland is a bit on the cool side, I wanted to share the dress I wore the most in Italy – – a linen dress that I finished the day we left, LOL!!! As usual, I decided at the last minute to add a dress to my travel wardrobe.

These photos were taken in the Villa Cimbrone Garden in Ravello Italy, a breath taking town perched on a cliff high above the Amalfi coast.

This linen dress was my go-to garment on the trip because the weather was warmer than expected. I thought I’d wear this dress with a tee shirt under it to protect my upper arms from the sun, but it was hot so the tee shirt stayed in the suitcase. I chose to stand in the shade often and managed to avoid a sunburn.

Dress Construction – To sew this dress, I modified my favorite loose fitting top pattern, the Grainline Hadley. The cut of this top is so flattering on everyone I think, with two neck options to choose from.

For the dress bodice, I used the sleeveless Hadley without the back pleat and lengthened the Hadley bodice by 6 inches. This became the A-line shaped bodice of the dress, complete with high – low hem.

The back button placket is a non-functional add on, just for looks. To make it, I sewed together two long strips of fabric then added buttons. After the placket was in place, I focussed on drafting the skirt. I cut two huge rectangles, that were 1 and a half times the bottom width of the Hadley. These I sewed together, then gathered and attached them to the bottom of the bodice. That’s all there was to it.

Fabric – Linen was the perfect fabric for Italy. It made me comfortable no matter what the weather. Personally, I could care less about the wrinkles. For this dress, I used a solid blue linen from my stash, purchased last season at the Mill End Store. The striped linen is from Joann’s.

This dress is so fun to wear!

Swinging wasn’t in my vacation plans, but when you’re on the Amalfi coast, why not? I enjoyed wearing linen so much on my trip, I’m determined to find ways to sew with it year round! Any thoughts on this idea?

Sewing plans – As the travel fog lifts and I put away my summer clothes, I know I’ll be inspired to sew a few fall things. I hope there will be a new trench coat, maybe a short wool coat too so watch for those posts.

Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by!

Travel Mix and Match: Burda Culottes with Two Linen Tops

Published on by ellegeemakes11 Comments

Hi All! In two weeks, I’ll be traveling to Italy, and there’s nothing like a deadline to get you motivated to sew, sew… SEW. Although I love to travel with dresses (this linen Burda will go with me) I’m going to stretch my options a bit by packing a few mix and match separates too.

IMG_2967.jpeg

Burda refers to this pattern as shorts, but I consider them to be culottes. I love the wide cut in the leg contrasted with the paper bag waist. This pattern was in the Burda magazine (07/2019 #107A) and there were only TWO pattern pieces to trace…Yahoo! Because I was going for the culotte look, I lengthened them by two inches. Cut from linen, I think they’ll be perfect for Italy’s soaring temperatures.

107_large.jpg

The paper bag waist is formed by pleats that are stitiched down at the waist. I decided to add a belt to make the waist more dramatic when I wear them with a shirt tucked in.  I also added in seam pockets – – honestly I can’t live without pockets!

IMG_2897.jpeg

I’m wearing the culottes with my new Cuff Top by the Assembly line. I love this pattern. It’s simple but unique with sleeves that are gathered at the cuff by wide elastic. Because the sleeves are cut as part of the bodice, it’s really pretty easy to put this top together. The design details are what make this top special to me…the front seam (flat felled and top-stitiched with a double needle) and the wide boat neck (also topstitiched with a double needle).  Because the front of this top is seamed, you could use contrasting fabric to great effect. I’m imagining another version in a stripe! This fabric is a lightweight gray linen, which should be perfect in the heat. 

My second travel top is also made from linen, New Look N6601. 

IMG_2816This wrap top looks much harder than it is to sew. The neck is pretty simple…faced with bias binding.  Luckily, I had enough fabric to make my own. If you’ve never made your own bias binding, I highly recommend it.  It’s really a easy way to make the inside of your garment special. If you’re curious, check out the many tutorials on U-tube. IMG_3066.jpeg

Fit can be a bit tricky for me with wrap tops, but this is drafted so well, I made a slight adjustment for narrowed shoulders and called it good.

I’m really pleased with these additions to my travel wardrobe…there’s nothing like some new pieces to really heighten your anticiaption of a trip!

I know linen wrinkles, but I’m determined to travel with it anyway. It’s perfect for hot weather, and I’ll pack a portable clothing steamer for a quick touch up when needed. I still plan to sew more items for the trip, but time is running out……fingers crossed that I persevere!!  Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by.

 

 

 

Linen Tablecoth Top for #scarfrefashion and #so50vintage

Published on by ellegeemakes15 Comments
IMG_2015

I have a love/hate relationship with Instagram, I must admit. I love seeing everyone’s makes but I find the limitations imposed by the IG algorithm to be so frustrating. Sometimes, my feed is so edited by Instagram, I don’t see the content I choose. Nevertheless, as you all know, I do love a good sewing challenge and Instagram is full of them! So, I will stop complaining and get on with it….:)

IMG_2046

This linen top (a bit wrinkled having just been worn) was inspired by two sewing challenges on Instagram: the #scarfrefashion challenge (includes tablecloths too) sponsored by @sewstoney and @sewdalaridada, and the #so50vintagechallenge. I happened upon a vintage linen tablecoth with beautiful cut work and mitred corners at a estate sale. I’ve made tops from tablecloths before (here and here) so I knew this one was perfect for a top. I couldn’t resist giving the challenge a whirl.

With a little over a yard of fabric to work with, my style options were a bit limited. After perusing my extensive (!!) pattern stash, I came upon Simplicity 8090, a pattern from 2016 that has all sorts of possibilities.

I chose view C because it doesn’t take alot of fabric and it’s cropped, which allowed me to use the finished edges of the tablecloth as the hem for the top.

The pattern was so easy to sew. The sleeves went in perfectly. The front placket was really easy because I used the finished edge of the tablecloth for that. I only made one modification – I added a collar stand.

I do love the french darts on this top. They look so crisp in linen.

IMG_2008

This top has a seam down the back so I positioned the bodice pieces so that the tablecloth’s cut detailing would be on either side of the seam. I cut the sleeves to use the tablecloth detailing and hem too.

IMG_2045

The inside of the shirt looks fabulous because the hem of the tablecloth finished all the seams for me, LOL!!

All in all, it was a fun project, and I’m pleased with how it turned out. The biggest challenge was the laying out the pattern properly, of course, but the extra time involved was worth it.  I do love the boxy cut of this top and know I’ll use this pattern again. Vintage linen is so lovely to work with, I’ll never be able to resist an old tablecoth again!

IMG_1977

Are you taking on any sewing challenges this summer? Let me know so I don’t miss it! I love seeing everyone’s makes….

Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by!