Category: japanese pattern book

2020 in Review: Sewing Hits and Misses

Published on by ellegeemakes14 Comments

Hi all – -Even though 2020 has been rough, I do look forward to reviewing my hits and misses each year. So in spite of the fact that I’d like to forget much of this year quickly, here we go!

Some hits……

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The Tamarack Jacket (Grainline). Can I just say, what took me so long? I love wearing this jacket both outside and in. It is my go to ‘topper’ and I hope to make another one soon. This quilted Merchant and Mills fabric was such a fabulous splurge, but worth every penny. It makes this jacket such a pleasure to wear.

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Kantha Cloth Haori (Wiksten) – -Yes, there is a bit of a theme developing here…my new found love of quilted jackets! The colors in this fabric make me smile and the chambray lining is fabulous against the skin. If you haven’t made a Wiksten Haori, reconsider!

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1960s coat (Sew Over It) This was a challenging make but so worth the effort. The boucle wool was a splurge and I lined the coat in silk, a investment I will never regret. I love the classic style of this coat and wear it all the time.

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Denim Scrap Haori: Jackets were my jam this year and this one was as fun to sew as it is to wear.  I added topstitching everywhere just for the heck of it. I had an aha moment while making this. I love, love mixing and matching fabrics so much. As a result of this project, I actually tried a quilting project. More about that later.

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Carolyn Pajamas in Lady McElroy cotton lawn The joy in this make for me was placing the pattern pieces on the lively print in a way that was pleasing.  I love wearing these so much!

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Patchwork Linen Inari (Named Clothing) This project combines two of my big sewing loves….Linen and playing with fabric scraps.

IMG_4339 Isca Shirt Dress in linen: This is my go to dress during all seasons and will be forever. I love the gathers, the raised waist and the cool inset. I made two, but will likely make more!

Fails

I learn something from every project I make so when something doesn’t work, it’s usually easy to talk myself out of a funk.  Famous last words….

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Jasika Blazer – -Whoa…this was a huge fail that haunted me. I even made a mock up, but I still got the pocket placement too low. Unfortunately, I didn’t figure it out until the blazer was finished. The drape of the velvet was funky too, so wrong for this pattern.  It was no one’s fault but my own. Still, ouch. I have fabric for another one, but I think I’ll put this pattern away for a while!

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Farrah Jumpsuit (Sew Over It) Great pattern, but the style is just not me. I just can’t do it. Live and learn. I should stick with classic shapes.

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Freida top (Sew Over It) – Cute pattern, but wrong fabric. Yes, this fabric was on sale but it was not a good purchase. It’s really see-through. It’s already been donated.  I do like this pattern though. Perhaps I should make it again.

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I also made a quilt with scraps too which took me a bit out of my comfort zone, but I thoroughly enjoyed it. I will likely make another soon.

All in all, a pretty successful sewing year. Even though I was sewing alot, I didn’t post as often but when I did, I enjoyed it more. I hope to continue blogging this year, and to post on Instagram too. I try to keep a healthy relationship with Instagram but sometimes I fall prey to the desire to sew what’s trendy rather than what’s right for me. I hope this year I can keep that in check:).

Through this strange, sobering year, sewing has been my refuge. I’m so appreciative of the joy this lovely hobby gives me and of our community of makers. Thanks for reading! IMG_1704.jpeg

A Nano Iro Summer Coat

Published on by ellegeemakes4 Comments

I told myself when the ‘stay at home’ time began, that I would use it as an opportunity to tackle sewing projects that were either time consuming or that had been on my to-do list for awhile. This project falls into both categories.

This coat is from the Nano Iro sewing book, by far my favorite sewing purchase of 2019! I love japanese sewing patterns, and here, they are conveniently translated. 

This pattern is called, appropriately, the summer coat. It’s unlined and best made in cotton or linen, two fabrics I can’t get enough of. I made it before, here and absolutely love wearing it. 

For this version of the summer coat, I used a really special piece of fabric I purchased in Rome last September at an amazing fabric store, Azienda Tessile Romana. 

If you visit Rome, do not miss this fabric store. The fabrics are gorgeous and when I visited, the staff was so helpful and generous with their time. You will not be disappointed. (Hopefully, we’ll all be free to visit there soon.) 

This fabric is a amazing cotton Jacquard and the texture is perfect for this coat (Black is hard to photograph, and these photos don’t do justice to this fabric!) It has just enough body to support the lapels and to give this loose-fitting coat a bit of structure. I wish I had more of this fabulous fabric!

Construction of the coat was easy. The lapels are cut into the coat, then faced. The trickest part for me was the neck facing. Even though I’d made this pattern before, I must admit, I struggled! The diagrams in the instructions helped, but for some reason, it was counterintuitive for me. I couldn’t make the facing fit to the jacket. Eventually, I realized it was because I was trying to fit the wrong side of the facing to the neck opening. Once I came to terms with that, it fit easily. 

I do love this jacket. In fact, the patterns in this book are all on my to-do list. The photos in this book are inspirational too. The fabrics they chose are enviable – – double gauzes and linens in bright colors.  I’m so glad I ticked this coat off my to-do list as it will be absolutely perfect to wear on cool Spring days.

Next up is a Tamarack Jacket. I hope to show that to you soon. 

Sewing is helping me to get through these strange days. Good health and happiness to you all. Thanks for stopping by! 

A Wiksten Haori in Kantha Cloth

Published on by ellegeemakes24 Comments

I don’t know about you, but I’m craving a bit of ‘normal’ right now. So let’s just dive into the details of this new make, a Wiksten Haori jacket. 

If you haven’t tried this pattern, you’re missing out on some fun! It’s a chance to use your favorite fabrics in a way that makes them so wearable. This is my third Haori (others posted here and here), and I’m sure there will be more. 

This is an unstructured, loose-fitting jacket with three length variations, short, medium and long. I prefer the short, cropped version on me as I really like the proportions, but I’m in love with some of the longer versions I’ve seen in wool, so I might try one of those too. 

This jacket looks more complicated than it is. If you can sew a straight seam, you can make this jacket. Yes, it is lined but that’s nothing to worry about because creating the lining is simple. You just sew another jacket from your lining material and attach the two at the bottom seam.  The only modification I made to the pattern was to leave the interfacing out of the collar band as my fabric was stiff enough.

The beauty of the Haori is that it really allows the fabric to shine. My fabric is a Kantha cloth. I found a piece at Modern Domestic then found a bit more  at Cool Cottons, here in Portland. It’s amazing fabric with beautiful colors and the layers of cloth are stitched together with a long quilting stitch. It makes me happy just looking at it!  I’m wearing it with the linen shirt I made from a japanese pattern book (posted here.) I think they work well together.

Sewing is such a stress reliever for me. In these challenging times, I’m grateful that I have a pastime that comforts me, and a community to share it with. Hang in there all, and thanks for stopping by! 

#sewjapaneseinjanuary times two!

Published on by ellegeemakes16 Comments

You probably won’t be surprised to hear that I’ve been inspired by yet another Instagram sewing challenge! January in Oregon can be pretty dull and gray, so I’m often tempted to turn to Instagram for a bit of stimulation. Last month, the #sewjapaneseinjanuary challenge caught my eye. So, I dove into my pile of long neglected Japanese pattern books. Here’s one of my favorites.

Although some japanese pattern books are translated into English, wouldn’t you know, this favorite by Asuka Hamada is not!! No matter….we’re up the challenge, eh? Asuka Hamada’s designs are well worth the effort….chic without being too complicated.

Of course, when you sew from a Japanese pattern book, you have to trace the pattern…sigh. Well, here’s the good news. Now that I’ve done this a few times, I can honestly say, I actually enjoy the process. It’s sort of….meditative. For me, the concentration required to pattern trace is a lovely distraction! It’s like putting a jigsaw puzzle together…you have to be completely absorbed in the process or it just doesn’t happen. Here is the pattern I chose, a simple shirt with really great sleeves.

Since I don’t understand Japanese, the illustrations guided me.

Sewing from line drawings was simpler than it looks. It was freeing in a way and the process went faster too. Honestly, I may never read the pattern instructions again…LOL.

The shirt is slightly oversized which makes it great tucked into a pencil skirt or worn loose with jeans. My fabric is a lovely linen purchased at Bolt fabric. I enjoyed sewing this shirt so much, I had to make another version (minus the collar) from a linen cotton blend.

This Spring and summer, this shirt will be in heavy rotation with the striped linen skirt I made last summer.

Well, now that I know language isn’t really a barrier to trying new pattern books, who knows what will happen!? Maybe I’ll have to add another shelf in my sewing room for some new Japanese pattern books, eh? If you have any favorite pattern books…please share. I’m in the mood for a shopping spree.

Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by!

#sewjapaneseinjuly meets #tableclothrefashion

Published on by ellegeemakes12 Comments

July was a big month for sewing challenges. There were so many on Instagram, I coudn’t keep track of them all. For me, two challenges stood out above the rest: #sewjapaneseinjuly and #scarfrefashion, which also includes tablecloths. Yes, my last post was about a tablecloth refashion, but as you all know, one thing always leads to another for me, and that project was so fun. I guess it isn’t too surprising that I had to do another revashion before July was done.

But first, my #japeneseinjuly make…

IMG_2306 This is the Summer Jacket from the Nano Iro sewing studio book.

 

Nano Iro is a watercolor artist who creates beautiful textiles. Her designs are transferred to cotton and linen, which are perfect for clothing. Not only does she create beautiful textiles but she is an author. On a recent shopping trip to Bolt fabric here in Portland, I discovered that her recent book has been translated to English! Of course, I couldn’t resist….this is the summer jacket from that book.

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To me, Japanese sewing books are great because the styles are simpler and cleaner which allows the fabric to take center stage. That’s why, for this jacket, I reached deep into my stash for one of my favorite pieces of linen.

 

IMG_2318My linen has the tiniest bit of sheen which makes the denim color really pop.

IMG_2241I love the classic lines and the shawl collar of this summer jacket. The construction is basic but clever…the shawl collar is supported by a back neck facing that keeps the neck from rolling.  The pockets are patched onto the jacket, which gives it a utility jacket feel, so on-trend! It’s unlined so construction is a breeze. If you can set in a sleeve and attach a basic collar, you’re good to go! Use a medium weight fabric for this project with a bit of drape.  IMG_2305This style works with everything in my closet – – I suspect this jacket will be in my suitcase when I go to Italy this September!

On to the  tablecloth refashion…

IMG_2284This is the Basic Blouse, cut from a circular vintage table cloth purchased at an estate sale. I wish you could see from these photos that the cut detailing is embroidered with blue thread – – Love!!

 

Construction of this top was simple..The sleeves are cut into the bodice so there’s nothing much to it. The trick was in the layout….I had to place the cut detailing appropriately. I used the scalloped edge of the tablecloth as the hem and the center of the tablecloth as the yoke of the bodice. The sleeves are highlighted with more cut detailing, and after some tricky maneuvering I managed to get the sleeves to mirror each other. IMG_2287I added a back slit at the neckline and finished it with bias binding.

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I love my new outfit…and to think both pieces were inspired by sewing challenges! What challenges are you inspired by?

IMG_2190 Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by!

 

A wrap shirt from my first Japanese pattern book

Published on by ellegeemakes11 Comments

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A wrap shirt…Looks tricky, doesn’t it? Actually, it’s all in how the shirt is buttoned up!  If you want to, you button it up the traditional way.

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But why would you want to, when you can do this?

A simple modification makes the wrap possible. You add a loop to one side seam, a button to the other, and viola! You have a wrap shirt.

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I admit it. I bought my first japanese sewing book because this cute shirt was on the front cover. I just had to give it a try.

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I can’t tell you why it’s taken me so long to experience the world of japanese pattern books. Perhaps, it’s because I assumed the patterns would be hard. This book, Simply Sewn, written by Michiyo Ito, shows how wrong I was. It has a variety of patterns in them, none of them especially tricky, but all of them stylish and interesting. collage

 

I’m so intrigued by both the hooded jacket and the cropped polka dot jacket. Now that I’ve tried one pattern and loved it, those are next on the list.

To be sure, when sewing with a pattern book, there are challenges to be faced. You have to trace the patterns (ugh, but I am getting better at it), and you have to select your size, in this instance, either S, M, L, or XL. The sizing is a bit different than what you’d find in a Big 4 pattern, but there’s a chart and a thoughtful explanation of how to choose your size. You also must add a seam allowance, a easy detail to deal with. The good news…unlike some others, this book includes full size pattern pieces and the pattern markings used are straightforward.

IMG_5778Based on my measurements, I chose a size small, and found it to be perfect. There isn’t alot of ‘fuss’ to the instructions, which I often find confuses me more than helps. They were complete and easy to understand. With each style, there’s a pattern layout chart, and construction steps with a few diagrams. Everything was pretty straightforward on this pattern so I didn’t find any challenges. The sleeve is finished with a cuff, the button tab is folded fabric, and the collar is simply drafted and sewn in place.

I really love this book and the styles there, so there will likely be another japanese pattern book in my future. Here are a few I’m considering….

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There are so many to choose from, a huge new world of possibilities.  I’m so glad I took the leap and gave this pattern a try! I know I’ll wear this shirt constantly this summer, both wrapped and buttoned up.

Have you tried Japanese pattern books? Do you have a favorite?

Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by!