A Bomber Jacket Inspired by Philip Lim

 

IMG_6389I thought I was over bomber jackets until I saw this plaid version by Philip Lim.screenshot

When I found McCall’s 7636  by Beaute’ J’Adore, I knew it was the perfect match for my designer inspiration. There’s alot about this pattern that sets it apart from the bomber jacket patterns that are available.

M7636

My favorite detail is the statement sleeves. As you can see from the line drawing, the shape is created by pleats that are gathered into a ribbed cuff. Then, to make the sleeves pop, there’s piping added before you insert the sleeve into the bodice. I think that really makes this jacket unique.

IMG_6353

IMG_6352

 

The jacket is fully lined, a plus at this time of year! To make cozy and warm,  I used red checked flannel from Fabric Depot.

IMG_6392

Some tips about the fit of this jacket… It is cut very generously, so be prepared to adjust.

  • The sleeves are pretty long. I don’t usually need to shorten sleeves, but it was a must here and I’m glad I took the time to figure that out because the sleeves are quite poufy. If they were too long, they would be pretty annoying to wear.
  • Also, I took my usual narrow shoulder adjustment but increased it by 5/8″ and I think I could have even done more! My guess is that this broad shoulder look is what the designer is going for, but it’s a bit overdone if you have a small frame.
  • The jacket bodice is cut pretty long. I’m 5’4″ and I shortened it by a full inch.

Even with those adjustments though, I’m in love with this pattern. The sleeves look tricky to sew, but they really aren’t – -they are simple pleats that easily fit into the ribbed cuff. The instructions are thoughtful and there’s alot of attention to detail that makes sewing this jacket a breeze. In fact, I enjoyed it so much, I might make another version this Spring from denim.

IMG_6387

Because this was a designer original inspired make, I’m going to tag it for Designin’ December, a fun competition created by Linda of Nice Dress, Thanks I Made It. Visit her website for more inspiration!  There’s alot to enjoy there!

December is a busy month and it’s hard to find a spare minute to sew, but I’m completing a couple of gifts and decorating projects that are using up my huge stash of remnants. I’ll be posting about those this week.

I love that this make has red as the dominant color. It makes this jacket feel, well… festive! Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by.

A gray jacket for…Spring? 

Yes, I know it’s the time of year for wearing bright colors like yellow and fuchsia and green. But gray? Not so much.

I ask…why not? Gray is a tried and true neutral, darn good company to just about any other color you can name. That’s why I decided to make a casual Spring jacket out of gray – -because it will go with every bright color you can conjure up.

DSC02865

Of course, it is May, an odd time of year to think about jackets and coats at all. Soon, the weather will be so warm, coats will be obsolete. Why by the end of the week, we’re promised eighty degree weather, even in Oregon! Still, promises are made to be broken. I suspect I’ll need to have a coat by my side for quite some time to come.
The pattern I used for this wrap jacket is Vogue 9037, a loose fitting, unlined double-breasted jacket with front and back tucks.
 DSC02913
 It was the tucks that did it. When I saw them, I fell like a fool for this jacket. Not only that, but the collar on View A, made it a must have too. It’s wide, but not too wide, with an unusual cut. The shaped hemline looked interesting too.
Because the jacket is unlined, I decided to use a double faced fabric, a ponte knit that I’ve had in my stash for so long, I can’t remember where it came from :). You know how it is. Honestly though, I wish I could remember, because this fabric is the perfect weight for Spring and a dream to work with. I’d love to have it in black or navy too.
 DSC02868
The pattern looked pretty straightforward, but I was a taken back (freaked!) when I read the warning on the pattern envelope though…No provisions provided for above waist adjustment! Noooooooo. Very bad news for a short-torso person like me!
Of course, I didn’t notice that horrid warning until I’d already cut the fabric….(Hmmmm. Perhaps I should slow down once in awhile and read the pattern instructions carefully before diving right in, maybe even trying it out with muslin?)
 DSC02863
Fortunately, there isn’t a tragic end to this story. I lucked out!!! The jacket fit like a dream with no adjustments.  The tucks are positioned just right for the likes of me.
The jacket was easy to sew and, since it’s a wrap style, there aren’t any buttonholes to make. Nice, eh? The tucks are easy too, especially if you mark the fabric well. My only regret is that I didn’t have enough fabric to make the tie belt as long as I would have liked.
I’m happy with the result and plan to make this pattern again, probably in the fall. If you need an easy-to-wear, throw on jacket, I highly recommend this one.
What do you think? Am I kidding myself about gray? Should my wrap jacket be shut away until fall?