Thursday Top: A Little White Shirt (Simplicity 1694)

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By now, we’ve all heard of the LWD (Little White Dress), this Spring’s alternative to the Little Black Dress. But after a recent review of my wardrobe, I realized I needed a LWS, (Little White Shirt) in the worst way. Scary fact – – I have a million tees and more than a million dresses in my closet, but hardly any shirts. Why? Because I sew without a plan.
My sewing is inspired by many things: cool fabric, impulse buys, a great project I saw on someone else’s blog, an Ready-To-Wear item that I’m determined to ’sew for less’. But need? Never, a fact that has consequences. My wardrobe is a bit of a mash up. What to do? Sew!
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Given the fact that the temperatures are well above 90 degrees, I decided to use some very lightweight embroidered cotton in my stash to make a summer-friendly, white shirt that would work with a pair of shorts I never wear because they’re separates without a match.
I chose an embroidered, lightweight cotton from my stash that I found at Fabric Depot. As usual, when I found this fabric, I made an Impulse-Buy. So, I didn’t have quite enough to make what I really wanted, a shirt with rolled-up sleeves and tabs. Also, the fabric’s cool embroidery detail is on the fabric’s border, so laying out the pattern was a bit tricky (similar to the issue I had with my kimono), and I used more than I meant to. So, I was forced to use a different fabric for the yoke and pockets.
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I had a bit of white textured cotton, a remnant left over from another project, so I used that. In hindsight, having too little fabric might have been a good problem to have,  because the textured cotton makes the pockets stand out a bit more.
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The pattern: Simplicity 1694, a loose-fitting button down shirt with sleeve variations, collar variations and length variations. It was pretty easy to sew and the instructions were very clear.
The fabric: Lightweight cotton with a very wide embroidered border. I used vintage buttons I had in my stash.
Modifications: None! For once, it fit without any adjustments or changes. The sleeves are 3/4 length, but I rolled them up for the photos because it’s so hot outside.
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I think this pattern will become a Tried and True. I’d like to make it again, a longer version that can be tucked in, maybe in chambray with long sleeves.
Do you sew to fill a need in your wardrobe, or are you a bit random about the whole thing?
Stay Cool! Thanks for stopping by.

Sew the Kimono Look – Simplicity 1318 

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If you’ve abandoned your sewing machine to visit the alluring aisle of your favorite retail haunt, you’ve probably seen a kimono or two on display. I first noticed this fun trend, when we visited San Diego this Spring. Kimonos were everywhere, worn over cut-offs, shorts, jeans, even over short dresses. The look seemed easy-to-wear and I liked the lightweight fabrics in prints and solids. In short, sign me up!
For inspiration, here’s one by Herve Leger.
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And another. Love the fabric combo here!
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I like how that one’s belted.
Maybe I’ll make a belt for mine.
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Pattern: I used Simplicity 1318, a very ‘easy-to-sew’ pattern with trim and hi-low hem options. From cut to finish, it took only two hours. Other great pattern options: Butterick 6176 or Vogue 9115. 
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Fabric: Simplicity suggests using lightweight woven fabrics with drape for this pattern. I used a cotton lawn with a border print that I found at Mill End. I think it would be great out of a silky fabric as well.
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Modifications: The pattern includes lots of sizes, ranging from  XXS – XXL. I cut a small which fit, but I did have to adjust for my narrow back. If I make another kimono, I will go a size down as the pattern is so loose-fitting. I’d like it to hang open a bit more in the front.
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Challenges: Because I used a border print, I had to figure out how to lay the pattern on the fabric to capture the border trim most effectively. This was tricky and at one point, I headed back to the fabric store to buy more. Lesson learned! Do not be cheap. Buy more! Tip: If you’re using a border print, buy an extra half yard (at least) to give yourself some wiggle room.
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Do I recommend this pattern?  Yes!!  It’s super easy and I love how you can fiddle around with it to create your own look with a fun fabric. Because it’s summer, I’m definitely into patterns that offer instant gratification and this one fits the bill.  There’s nothing tricky about the techniques required, and you can whip it up in an afternoon. I might try it again in a silkier fabric with contrast bands.
Stay cool! And thanks for stopping by.

Thursday tee: A froufrou floral…tamed!

Floral prints mean Spring to me. They always tune my mind into thinking, warm (!), a must after spending the long winter buried under sweaters and fleece. By the time May rules around, I have a hard time believing ‘warm’ exists at all!

I love the optimism of a good floral, but to me, wearing one is a bit tricky. The wrong floral can make me look like my grandmother (loved you granny, but…). And if the print is too pastel, it makes me feel fussy rather than fresh.  So, I tend to gravitate to florals that include bold colors or where the froufrou feeling is tamed by a bit of black.
When it comes to fashion, here’s the good news. This Spring, there are zillions to choose from! That makes it easy to give in to their Spring-y optimism because you can find one that matches your favorite color palate. I love the bold florals by Celine and how they paired them with black to balance out their sweetness.
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And the floral Antonio Marras used here is so fresh! It even has a cool seventies vibe.
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When I shop for fabric, I approach any floral with a bit of trepidation, which I toss aside willingly when said floral looks like it will go with my everyday staple– my favorite jeans. So, when I saw this floral tee-shirt knit, I just had to have it. It’s a print that includes my favorite bold colors; cobalt blue, black and fuchsia, with a back drop of gray. Instant love! A must have! (And of course, price is no object at a moment like this.)
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The pattern I used is Butterick 5890, a top with tucks to define the waist, and a number of sleeve variations. I used View C, a tee with a front center seam and two long tucks on either side. The pattern is designed for light weight wovens, but since my knit was stable, I decided it could pass as a woven in a pinch.
One great thing about this pattern – – It doesn’t require much fabric. Since I’m small/short person, it took less than a yard and a half to make this tee, a plus since I have many (many!!) pieces in my fabric stash that are about that size. Any project that contributes to my Stash Reduction Project gets bonus points from me.
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To balance out the floral’s intrinsic sweetness, I cut the sleeves from a contrast fabric, a black solid. I also used black binding at the neck, and at the hem to give the tee a bit more edge and shape.
The pattern went together quickly (an easy afternoon sew) and the tucks were easy once I had the fabric well marked. The trickiest part for me was raising the waist position, a must since I’m short waisted. Once I figured that out, it was a breeze. Oh, and because my fabric had a bit of stretch, I cut the pattern one size smaller to adjust for that.
It’s a comfy tee that goes well with dark pants, dark skirts, and (of course) my trusted jeans, which balances out the frofrou floral. But even with the black contrast, the tee still says Spring to me- – which is why this top belongs outside, swinging in the warm breeze….
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Are you wild about this season’s florals, or do you think they belong in the past?

Thursday Tee: Color Block Love

Today’s tee is color blocked. The truth is, I love a good color blocked garment and probably will until I’m pushing up daisies. As trends go, it has a lot to offer, as well-placed blocks of color can shape your figure so that it looks like you wish it did!  Subtle combos look classic. More dramatic ones can attract attention.
But for those of us who sew, color blocking has an even deeper purpose. It gives you an opportunity to use all of those random pieces of fabric in your stash that are too boring to use alone! You know the ones -those small remnants of solids in safe colors like black and taupe and gray (sigh). I have so many, I could swear they’re reproducing.
Since I’m a bit color-block-obsessed,  I was thrilled to see the trend featured in a few designer collections this Spring. Some used big swaths of bold, bright color. I love these pieces by Roksanda Ilincic. The color combinations are unexpected, but really cool.
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 She is the queen of color blocking, no?
Top Shop played with the trend here; sporty and effective.
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Even J. Crew paired colors in interesting ways.  image
Okay. After looking at these exciting, edgy pieces, my color blocking moment looks a bit dull in comparison (LOL)  But, hey, it’s a start, right?
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When I experiment with color blocking, I like to keep it simple by applying some loose rules. I pick three colors, and often keep them in the same color family. (But after seeing the color blocking examples I posted here, I doubt I’ll stick to this rule in the future. Bravery has its rewards. Am I right?) When it comes to design, I choose simple patterns so that the color combination is what the eye sees.
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The pattern I used for this tee is McCalls’ 7093, a top/tunic that’s semi-fitted with front seam detail that makes it ideal for color blocking. I chose version B, a short sleeved tee with low pockets in the front.
Keeping with my cautious design aesthetic (in other words, I’m a chicken), I used three colors; black, brown and white for accent. The black and brown fabric is woven rayon, purchased at Fabric Depot but the white is the last piece of linen knit I bought in Capri a little over a year ago (wish I’d bought more!).
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The pattern was fun and easy to sew, but the best part was that buzz you get when you play around with fabric combinations, using up a bit of your unwieldy stash in the process! I sewed the pattern as designed with a few slight modifications:
  •  I cut the sleeves a bit longer by adding a inch in the length.
  • I added a 1” sleeve band to the sleeve for finish.
This was a fun project and I will likely make this pattern again. Next time though, I’ll make it a little shorter. And I swear, my color blocked version will be a bit more adventuresome too. No more ‘safe’ choices for me!(?)
What about you? Do you like to experiment with color blocking? What patterns/colors have you tried?
Thanks for stopping by!