McCalls 7187: A plaid transition dress for Fall

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Yes, this dress is plaid and plaid does scream back-to-school and winter skirts. But don’t let my dress fool you. I have not given up on Summer!! After all, it’s only August. Sure, in a few weeks, the kids will be back in school, the warm air will have a crisp edge and we’ll have to start heating our houses again. But summer hasn’t thrown in the towel yet.

Still, my sewing projects are starting to shift. I’m reaching into my stash for heavier fabrics (reluctantly) with darker colors. I’m easing into this, though. After all, why let go of summer before we have to?

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That’s why I decided to sew a transition dress. I won’t give up the hope that there are still warm days ahead, so the fabric is a light-weight cotton. But to make the dress fall-worthy, the colors of the plaid are dark; black, red, green and gold. And nothing shouts ‘fall’ quite as loudly as plaid. This one’s especially bold – a stand-up-and-get-noticed plaid.

The pattern I used is McCalls 7187, a new one that was included in the McCalls’ fall release.

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It’s a fit and flare style with some interesting options. You can cut the dress with a relatively simple, straight skirt, or you can add pleats or gathers to the side panels. The pattern envelope showed the dress in a plaid, a perfect option for my bold fabric.  I chose the straighter style, only because I didn’t have quite enough fabric for the gathered, fuller option and I wasn’t sure how the plaid would look on the gathered skirt.

The pattern went together like a dream. I always cut one size larger when I’m making a McCall’s pattern, since, on me, they seem to run small (at least that’s what I tell myself). This was the case with this pattern too. The fabric was so easy to work with and fabulous to sew! It’s a woven cotton that I purchased at Mill End Fabrics. It drapes nicely, which I’m guessing is a must for this dress.

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I cut the front inset on the bias as indicated, a fun option that makes the plaid pop. The inset looks tricky, since it has curved seams, which I expected to be absolute torture to get right. But the inset went in perfectly the first time. How about that?!  A shout-out to the pattern designer! Thank-you!

Other than the inset, the dress is was pretty straightforward. The pattern instructions made everything quite clear. All in all,  Actual Sewing Time on this plaid frock was about three hours (three episodes of Game of Thrones, LOL).

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My only regret is that the dress isn’t lined, so my fabric tends to cling a bit to my legs from time to time. (Also, it was a bit windy when I shot the photos for this post which made the skirt go wonky.) I suppose you could line this dress though? But maybe the skirt would make that tricky? Not sure about that….

Are you sewing transition clothes? Or are you still focussed on summer?

Happy Sewing! And thanks for stopping by.

It’s summer, and the sewing is easy!

It’s a scorcher out there, my friends! And, there’s only one thing to wear at a time like this. A summer dress.  A person can’t have too many summer dresses, right? They’re so easy to throw on.
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Personally, when it’s hot, I live by the rule, less is more. I do not want heavy fabrics. I do not want my clothes to touch me. In fact, if naked was an option, I’d (probably?) go with that.  My less-is-more attitude extends to pattern choices as well. I want a pattern that has style without structure. (Yes, that’s asking a lot.) And if it’s ‘fast and easy’, that’s even better! Who wants to be inside, bent over a sewing machine, when it’s beautiful outside?
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This summer shift dress meets my very loose requirements. It’s a basic a-line with some soft tucks at the waist to give it a slight fit n’ flare shape. It’s made from a simple light-weight cotton, (purchased at Fabric Depot). I love this fabric because I can tell it will get softer with every wash. And it’s cotton. Sewing with cotton is always a breeze. I am such a fan…
For this dress, I used one of my ‘tried and true’ patterns, Butterick 5890, a top with tuck variations, sleeve variations and collar variations.
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I lengthened the tunic (view D), to make it a dress by adding 8″ to the length.
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Then, to add a bit of interest, I decided to try a v-neck version. This modification was made by drawing a straight line from the edge of the inside shoulder seam to the center front seam (view D has one, which makes this pretty straightforward). Then, I added a 5/8 seam allowance so that I could add a facing to that edge. Using my straight edge, I cut a matching front facing with seams allowances as well.
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For the sleeves, I used view A,  an option with armhole bands that are squared off. The arm bands are one of the reasons I love this pattern. They’re easy to sew, and they give the dress a bit of a vintage vibe.
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To be honest, this dress was so easy to sew, I almost feel guilty about not challenging myself. My excuse? It’s summer! Challenges are for when it’s dark and dreary outside, right? All told, this dress took only about 3 hours from start to finish. When Butterick says, Fast and Easy, they aren’t kidding. Gotta love that! I chose a print for this dress, but I think a solid would work too (maybe some yummy linen or silk).
Do you prefer ‘fast and easy’ patterns in the summer? Or does the sunshine elevate your mood, giving you the energy for a challenge?

Thursday Tee: My world is blue…

My fondness (obsession?) with the summertime blues continues. You’d think I’d hit the reset button at some point and vary my wardrobe pallet a bit, wouldn’t you? Hey, I hear you, but the fact is, I just can’t help myself!
My thursday tee shows off my obsession. It includes several shades of blue; cobalt, navy, royal. Three blues in one top!  Could I be happier? You wouldn’t think so, but guess what? This tee is color blocked as well…Nirvana!
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This pattern is Vogue 8817, a top designed by Katherine Tilton.
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I’ve used this pattern before.  The Tilton sisters love to mix things up, so this pattern offers the opportunity to use several fabrics of contrasting colors or prints, and the back of the envelope includes yardage requirements for a variety of mix and match options, making life easier.The contrast pieces require as little as 3/8 a yard of fabric, which makes this pattern a stash buster. You can use up those tiny remnants in your stash that you couldn’t bear to toss out! Gotta love that….
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I used cotton jersey for the bodice of the tunic, a mesh knit for the yoke, and jersey for the sleeve bands and yoke band. I’d tell you where I purchased the fabric if I could remember, but, hey, it’s all from my stash.
 For me, the best part of this ‘sew’ was mixing and matching  to create the contrasts that make this design unique. I used royal blue, navy blue and black on the sleeves, and black for the yoke band. Yes, I am burning through my stash and it feels so good!!
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 Although the Tilton sisters (Marci and Katherine) design loose fitting patterns that an amazon could wear (they’re both tall and skinny, wouldn’t you know?), I’ve found that, with a few minor adjustments, their designs can work for a shrimp (5′ 3”) like me.  For this top, I adjusted the pattern as follows:
  • I reduced the width of the back by 5/8”. (My frame is small and my back is narrow.)
  • I reduced the bodice side seam dimensions by 5/8” (The patterns are usually designed for a loose fit, so there’s a bit too much in the bodice for my smallish frame).
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Once I made those adjustments, the pattern was super easy to put together – no zipper is required since it’s a pullover and the neck is stretchy. The yoke is fitted, which makes the shape of the top reminiscent of the fit and flare trend. It’s a nice look on anyone’s shape.
This pattern is becoming a favorite. It’s a basic tee that’s easy to embellish, so you can put your own unique spin on it. What are your favorite stash-busting patterns? What do you do with your remnants? I’d love some ideas, as well, I have (ahem) a few in my stash.
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Thanks for stopping by!