Tag: DIY

New Pattern Release: Sew Over It Bonnie Top/Dress

Published on by ellegeemakes8 Comments

IMG_1008 3Hi All – – When I saw the sketches of the new Bonnie Top from Sew over It London I was thrilled. If you’re like me, you have a closet full of high waisted pants/skirts, but no tops to go with. I knew that this lovely ‘cropped’ top would fill a hole in my wardrobe. Not only that, but the Bonnie top has pleats! IMG_1005 2The Bonnie has a 1940s vibe with its defined waist, button up front and vertical pleats. It has a cute flat collar and short sleeves with little turn-up cuffs, a design detail that is subtle but effective. I like that the button placket is concealed – – it makes it a bit more polisihed – – a top that can go to a dress up event. There’s a dress version as well that has a knee length gathered skirt and a comfortable elastic waist.  I do love the pleats, but if you want a faster make, there’s a version of the Bonnie without pleats too. I know there will be a version of that view in my future.

I used a lightweight rayon for my version of the Bonnie, and it worked perfectly. Sew Over It recommends rayon/viscose, lightweight crepes, georgette, chiffon or very fine cotton voiles, in other words anything soft and drapey. I’d warn against anything heavier like a stiff cotton. The pleats wouldn’t have a chance to shine. If you are making the pleated version, the wider the fabric the better, as you need lots of room to lay out the front bodice as the pleats make it fairly wide.

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Fit and sizing – – I made my size according to my measurements and it fit nicely, without adjustment. I spent a bit of time fussing about the fit of the waistband, but I shouldn’t have bothered. The buttons don’t extend there so the waistband falls open ever so slightly…the fit isn’t tricky at all.

Construction– -When it comes to the pleats, I found the trick was to carefully mark them on my fabric. From there, construction was simple…. All I had to do is fold, press and sew!  Thankfully, the Bonnie  has very clear markings. I transferred them using a chaco marker. Once I’d accomplished that, pleat constructions was easy and fast. The concealed front placket was pretty simple too  once I had the markings transferred.

IMG_0998.jpegI love my new Bonnie top and plan to wear it with my high waisted skirts (the skirt I’m wearing is blogged here), pants, perhaps even with jeans. I can imagine an even dressier version out of silk or chiffon, and the dress version is on my ‘must-make’ list. Really, the Bonnie is one of my favorite Sew Over It patterns! Thanks to the Sew Over It London team for giving me the opportunity to make this lovely pattern!

Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by!

As a Sew Over It Pattern Insider, I received a download of this pattern for free, but the opinions expressed here are my own. 

A Burda ‘Back Interest’ Dress for Summer

Published on by ellegeemakes6 Comments

The term ‘back interest’ on a pattern always makes me chuckle, but when I’m done, I give it a long second look! That’s what happened with this Burda make. The photo on the envelope made me yawn, but then I flipped the envelope over and saw the line diagram of the V- back…Sold!

The weather has been promising here this week. We hit 100 degrees two days ago, a bit much for me, but so inspiring. Hot weather is perfect for my newest make, Burda 6439.

Usually, my Burda makes are laboriously traced from the pattern sheets included in the magazine, a task I sometimes resent. I’m so thrilled that this particular Burda pattern required no tracing at all, just a purchase at Joann’s. I made view B, because, well…the V! I made it from a lovely crinkle rayon, purchased at Joann’s as well. I love the drape of this fabric. There was a slight breeze the day I took these photos, and the fabric fluttered in such a lovely way!

For this dress, I cut the smallest size (according to my measurements) and it was still a bit big. I had to adjust the side seams and the back seam before inserting the invisible zipper. I’d recommend sizing down if you’re in the mood to give this one a try. Also, my crinkle rayon may have been a factor as the weave is loose. A fabric with a tighter weave (linen, cotton) would likely behave differently. The pattern goes together quickly ( no sleeves to set in) and the fit of the bodice is forgiving, so there isn’t anything tricky here. The instructions were very complete too, which made it such a pleasurable sew!

Love the side slit!

As I recently shared here, I had a few aha moments about what I like to wear during Me Made May. I was surprised to discover that if I have an option, I choose pants over dresses. Upon further reflection, I think my wardrobe choices during May are often weather driven. It’s never as warm as one would like in Oregon. Now though, the weather situation has shifted dramatically. Yesterday, it was so hot, I wore a dress and was so happy I did. So, I see no immediate reason to abandon my passion for sewing dresses…I’ll continue to do so but with more intention. This dress has already attended a barbecue and will likely go on a summer vacation as well.

This is my second make with crinkle rayon and I love wearing it! My fabric stash is loaded with linens and cottons, but this make renewed my love of rayon. It breathes and feels like silk against your skin. It’s always nice to remember there are lots of lovely fabric options. I also love wearing longer lengths in the summer. Mid length is such a nice option in rayon because the fabric breathes!

My fabric stash is huge right now, so I’m back to enforcing my rule that I must sew 3 stash projects before a fabric purchase can be made. I’m going to Italy and London this fall and must have my stash under control before I visit those lovely fabric stores:).

Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by!

#sewbibs: Seamwork Dani Pinafore

Published on by ellegeemakes12 Comments

IMG_5472Believe it or not….this Dani Pinafore is my first make of a Seamwork pattern. What took me so long?

IMG_5553I’ve never really investigated Seamwork patterns because I assumed (wrongly)  that because Seamwork patterns were part of a online magazine/club, they were simple designs, really meant for beginners. I suppose that’s true in some instances, but certainly not in this pattern.

sw3093-dani-01-large-1d45fe69fcb7935303658eef9020e3c945df0ae16c0f1ec38a6c182a7fe42449 The design of this pinafore includes so many things I like – – interesting seam details, pockets, a deep v-neck. The pinafore is fully lined, complete with armhole and neck facings as well.

IMG_5439Fabric: I used a medium weight dark wash denim and topstitched with medium gray thread. For a bit of fun, I lined it in polka dot rayon.

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Construction Notes – – 

Size: I chose the size indicated by measurements, then did a quick muslin, and quickly reaized it was going to be a bit too big. So I sized down and think the fit is pretty good at this point. If you’re thinking about making this….you might want to do the same.

Modifications – – As designed, the skirt is pretty short. I lengthened the bodice by 1 and 1/2” . Even with that change, I was left with a very narrow hem. The neckline is lovely, but pretty low, so I raised it by an inch.

I eliminated the inseam pockets and added patch pockets. All seams are flat-felled and topstitched with a twin needle.The front bodice and front skirt darts are topstitched too.

Rather than cutting the front and back bodice on the fold, I added a flat-felled seam at the center front and back, and topstitched.

IMG_5458Denim and topstitching are two of my sewing ‘loves’ so this project ticks off all of the boxes for me. I’m so glad I found this lovely pattern, and lucky me…it was free ( I won from a the Day/Night Dress Challenge drawing)!  I know there will be other Dani’s in my future…I’m already eyeing a piece of linen in my stash for a summer version that will be perfect for hot sticky days.

IMG_5442I hope you’re enjoying the #sewbibs challenge on instagram as much as I am- – Thanks to cookin’ and craftin for organzing a challenge that inspired me to add two new pinafores to my wardrobe (here’s the other one if you missed the post). Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by.

 

Burda Style Cocoon Dress

Published on by ellegeemakes24 Comments

I have to admit it…There was very little forethought behind these two new ‘makes’. I made these cocoon dresses on a whim….merely because I thought they would look pretty good with my new Cocoon coat (here)! Shallow…but true. Now that the 2018 RTW fast is over, I’m feeling quite free. I can sew anything I want without a single thought about whether I ‘need’ it to fill a hole in my wardrobe or not.  Frivilous sewing is the life for me!!

I’m such a sucker for a good knit dress in the winter, so if anyone waves a pattern in front of my face that gives me an excuse to make yet another one, I’m all in. And this one has pockets, which makes it perfect!

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I absolutely love a dress with side seams that wrap around to the front. I’m a big fan of stand up collars too….so Audrey Hepburn!

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Burda Style patterns have never been on the top of my list because they come in a magazine insert, so they all have to be traced onto pattern paper before they’re cut and sewn, and, well, I hate tracing patterns. I’d much rather buy a paper pattern, thank you very much. But the design of this dress was too good to pass up. So, I put on a binge worthy show just did it. This Burda Style pattern (1/2019/111) was worth the effort.

 

I loved the pattern so much I made two versions – – one from a soft, ‘poppy’ colored sweater knit I bought at the Mill End Store, and one from a textured sweat shirt jersey that I found at Joann’s (on sale!).

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It’s always interesting to see how different a dress/pattern looks with a two different knits. The gray textured jersey is a heavier moderate stretch knit so the dress and collar look more structured in that fabric. The poppy knit is so soft with a bit more stretch so the fit is loose and easy.

The dress went together easily. The collar is cut as part of the bodice so that makes things simple. The shape of the dress is created by the forward placement of the side seams. The hardest detail is the zipper at the back. Fitting is pretty straightforward…you can modify at the side or center back seam. I used a double needle for the sleeve hem and dress hem.

I love the neckline and the cocoon shape of this pattern – obviously, I’ll likely make it again. And the best part? Both dresses work under my new coat:)

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It’s always fun to follow an intense project like a coat with a less involved project, a palate cleanser! To be honest, the tracing of the pattern wasn’t as bad as I expected…really went pretty quickly and I’m getting better at figuring out all of those crazy lines on the magazine insert. So, there will definitely be more Burda Style makes in my future.

I  hope your New Year has had a strong start. I’m excited about all of the sewing happenings this month – – the Pattern Review Sewing Bee started this week. I’m not participating this year, but I love watching the fun. There should be lots of inspiration there. I’m hoping to make something for Sew Japanese In January, and there’s the Day/Night Dress Challenge coming up next month, hosted by Elizabeth Made This! Lots to look forward to…

Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by!

Inari Tee/ Dress Three Ways

Published on by ellegeemakes17 Comments

PicMonkey Collage-8As luck would have it, I have another ‘three versions’ post for you this week. The Inari tee/dress is such a versatile pattern, it’s impossible to resist a bit of experimentation once  it’s on the cutting table!

The lovely Inari tee/dress by Named Clothing has been around for a while, but it hasn’t lost its appeal for me.

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I love the boat neck, the high low hem, the relaxed cocoon fit and the side slits that give the look a bit of an edge. Then, there are the lovely finishing touches, the sleeve bands, the hem stitching….it’s the little things that elevate this pattern to bring the look home!

The pattern includes two variations: A loose-fitting tee dress and a cropped A-line tee. The dress is slightly cocoon-shaped, with an uneven hemline. There are slits at the sides of the dress and you can finish the neckline with a facing or a separate neckband. This pattern works with a light to medium weight fabric, either woven or stretch which makes it doubly versatile! The instructions are really complete and easy to understand on this pattern. I think even a beginner would find it instructive and satisfying to sew.

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My fabric is a linen/rayon blend from Joann’s that is medium weight with a nice drape. I love the way the side seams wrap around to the front on this dress, causing the cocoon shape. There’s something so ‘cool-girl’ about a cocoon shape:).

My other versions evolved from the cropped tee version. I am not a big fan of cropped tees unless they’re on a teen, and this tee is really cropped. So, I added a ruffled bottom to the hem of the bodice.

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This is my buddy, Mitchell…he had to be in these photos. His twin, Maggie is too shy to participate, but Mitchell loves all the attention he can get. He’s about six months now, such a funny, outgoing guy! Don’t worry about Maggie, though. She can definitely keep up. I’m guessing she’ll be pushing her way into photos soon enough.

IMG_7917I loved working with this rayon from Fabric Depot, and it feels so cool and light on. To make this version, I cut a hem band that was 1.5 X the width of the hem, and made it seven inches deep so that when hemmed, it would add six inches to the length of the bodice. I gathered it with a long sitch then sewed it to the bodice and hemmed it.

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My next version is made of lightweight shirting from Joann’s. The stripe on this fabric is so striking….just had to have it. For this version, I shortened the bodice on the cropped tee by two inches and widened the ruffled bottom by two inches as well so that the top would have more of a raised waist look. I wear this one constantly! The weight of this cotton is light, but it launders so nicely and wears well in any temperature.

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All of my Inari makes will transition well into Fall because they’re perfect with a long cardigan or a short jacket. If you haven’t given this pattern a try, I highly recommend it. There are lots of inspiring versions in blog land and on Instagram, so give it a look!

In sewing happenings, Indie Pattern Month starts next week on the Monthly Stitch. I plan on participating in at least two of the challenges. I hope you’ll join me.

Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by!

Three Versions: Darling Ranges Dress

Published on by ellegeemakes27 Comments

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I’m back from my wonderful trip to France (more about that later) and am trying to ease back into the real world. So far, between jet lag and the growing awareness that daily life is not *quite* as stimulating as vacation life, it’s been a bit of a struggle. Lethargy and lack of motivation has been the mood. However, I do have a plan. This weekend I’m going to take a quick trip to a fabric store to peruse the new Fall patterns and see where that takes me.

In the meantime, I want to share with you a pattern I’m quite in love with!

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Megan Nielsen’s Darling Ranges dress pattern has been around for a while so it’s easy to find inspiring makes on social media to cheer you on. It’s pretty versatile, with two options for the dress (with or without gathered waist) and a top. Before I left for my trip,  I made three of the dresses in quick succession. I hoped to blog it before I left, but alas…that didn’t happen! I love them all, but have a special place in my heart for the two linen versions, because, well, LINEN!

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My first version is made from a striped linen/rayon blend that I found at Joann’s early this Spring. I didn’t have quite enough to make the sleeves, so I had to modify, but I’m happy with the result. It’s easy to wear as is, or, with a tee under it, it will work well for Fall. The in seam pockets are great…very convenient without a lot of bulk. This dress went to France with me, and it did its job well. The tie is meant to go in the back, but I can’t stand the feeling of a tie when I lean back, so I extended the length so that it can be worn in front.

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This green version is made from plaid cotton shirting (ModernDomestic) so it required a bit of pattern matching. I eliminated the waist tie on this version to keep the fit loose. The sleeves are lengthened so that they’re easy to roll or push up. The pockets are self drafted and are cut on the bias.

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Version three is made from a lovely embroidered striped linen I found at Mill End store here in Portland. Here’s a close up of the fabric.

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The only changes I made to this version was to hem it about a inch longer. I also made the waist tie an inch wider so that it would look more substantial when I tied it in the front.

Fit and challenges: 

  • Shoulders – – Usually I have to do a narrow shoulder adjustment – – not here! So if you have wide shoulders, the fit on this dress may need some adjusting.
  • Fabric required – – Yes, this takes a lot of fabric! I tried to skimp a bit because I’m short, and ended up with a sleeveless version when I didn’t plan on one. Yes, the dress turned out fine, but (as usual), I should have respected the stated fabric requirements to avoid that situation.
  • Button placement – – The way they were positioned on the pattern would have left gaps where I didn’t want them, so I had to do some significant repositioning.

 

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All three versions are really wearable. My favorite is probably the last one, the embroidered linen, although I’m fond of the green version too. My husband has a strong dislike to that one – – his reason? “Some dresses aren’t meant to be made in green!” Hmmm…interesting and, well, thought-provoking. I hope he’s wrong, because I predict that version will be in heavy rotation this Fall. Will I make this dress again, or is three enough? Not sure…I’m tempted to make the waist less version, although I wonder if it will be too boxy. Thoughts? Please share.

Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by!!

 

A Knit Anorak in Two Hours or Less

Published on by ellegeemakes2 Comments

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It’s June, and I would love to say that this make is out of season, but it’s still layering weather here in the Pacific Northwest. When summer does arrive, it usually lands pretty hard though, so I’ll be breaking into my stash of linen this month! But for now, I’m craving soft warm cozy layers for afternoon errands and evening walks.

I titled this post – – in two hours or less because that’s an accurate reflection of how long it took to make this fast and easy jacket from Butterick.IMG_2639 2

This project was easy in part because I used double faced knit (Mill End Store).  LOVE IT!! The contrast hood and cuffs were created by the lovely lining on this knit.

They aren’t kidding when they say that Butterick 6394 is Fast and Easy! This pattern is simple and well-designed pattern; a good base for creativity and embellishment.

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I really wanted my knit jacket to feel more like a anorak than a ordinary sweatshirt so I modified as follows:

  • I added deep four inch cuffs to the long sleeves so that they could be folded back.
  • I added four buttons to the front closure. It’s meant to just meet at the front, but, because this is a very loose fitting jacket, it was easy to overlap the front to make it a button up jacket.
  • I added a drawstring waist, using seam binding on the inside and black cording.
  • I added deep pockets to the side seam.

Even with those modifications, this was a quick sew, made possible in part by the fact that the drop shoulders and the easy collar-less hood.

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I can guarantee, this jacket will be in heavy rotation during June, and again in the fall. This double faced knit is so great to sew and wear, I’ll always be on the lookout for more. Does anyone know a great source of lovely fabric like this?

Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by!

Day/Night Dress Challenge Reveal

Published on by ellegeemakes8 Comments

Hi all.  Today, I have a guest post on Elizabeth Made This, the reveal of my dresses for the Day and Night Dress Challenge, 2018.  Here’s a sneak peak of my coffee and cocktail dresses.

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I hope you’ll visit Elizabeth Made This for the full post.

This is the second year of the Challenge (here are last year’s makes for the challenge) and it’s been alot of fun. There’s a blog team and all of their makes are fabulous. I hope you’ll take a moment to check out them out as Elizabeth posts them on her blog.

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There’s a community challenge and prizes too, and it’s not to late to join!

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I’ve really enjoyed this challenge – much thanks to Elizabeth for the opportunity! Happy Sewing and Thanks for stopping by.

 

First Make of 2018, Goals and a Few Reflections

Published on by ellegeemakes35 Comments

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It feels good to be back to blogging after the holidays! I love the parties and fun but I’m very ready to move on, to get back to the routine and back to the sewing room. So, I’m happy to welcome 2018 with a new make, a few goals and some reflections too.

I took a moment to look back on my 2017 makes (here’s my top five)  and was not surprised to discover I sewed more tops than anything else. That’s easy to predict since I spend a lot of time wearing pants and jeans, not because it’s my ‘look’, but because I live in a damp, chilly climate that makes pants a necessity. A fun, new top is an easy way to change-up my wardrobe without much fuss. That being said, the large number of tops in my closet played a big part in my goals for 2018;

  • Sew more pants! Last year, I made only two pair plus a pair of Jalie stretch jeans (!!). In 2018, I’d like to find a couple of other patterns to call tried and true. This will be important if I’m going to be successful with goal number two which is….(drum roll)…
  • To participate in the 2018 RTW fast (Thanks, Goodbye Valentino for inspiring me!). Basically, I will not being buying any clothes this year, so I’ll need to stitch up a couple of pairs of pants if I’m going to survive a year without Anthropologie (can it be done? We’ll see….).
  • Challenge myself with at least two sewing contests, four if I can manage it.
    • In 2017, I participated in the Pattern Review Wardrobe Sudoku and the plaid contest. Both competitions were really fun and they  pushed me out of my comfort zone a little too. I had to stretch my sewing skills a bit to keep up, so I’d like to do more next year.
  • Stash Bust: Sure, I could try to give up fabric purchases for awhile, but a year without that pleasure would be a truly horrifying thing for me! So, I will compromise with this rule. I will sew two items from stashed fabric for every one fabric purchase.
  • Sew a trench coat. I’ve always wanted to make one, a Burberry knock off would be great! See how inspiring they are?

  • Sew a couple of cool bags with lots of details. Ideas of patterns to try anyone?
  • Sew with a plan 50% of the time: Last year I sewed with a plan for a trip to Spain and Portugal, which really paid off. I had a great travel wardrobe that was comfortable and made me feel put together, even when I wasn’t, LOL. I will do the same with a couple of trips this year. However, sewing with a plan all the time cannot be a goal for me. Too much planning can destroy my sew-jo. I kid you not. When I think about what I’m going to sew too much, every decision overwhelms me and I end up doing, well…. nothing!  So, I will allow myself time to sew ‘whatever suits my fancy’ too, because spontaneity and sewing in the moment is the fun of it for me.

In summary; I was pretty productive in 2017, and hope to do the same in 2018, balancing hard projects like coats with ‘easy sews’ like tops and skirts. My blogging goals are to improve my photos and my regularity, although I didn’t do too bad last year.

Now about this top….

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I found this sweater knit at Fabric Depot this fall. Immediately, I could see it as another version of McCalls 7501, a knit dress/top pattern that I made before and wore constantly because it’s cozy and comfortable, especially with a tee under it. This fabric caught my eye because it reminded me of sweater I saw at Anthropologie. McCalls 7501 is a favorite pattern now because I love view B, the wide collar option. The collar becomes such a cozy detail when sewn from a textured sweater knit.

This pattern is a fun, quick sew. It even has Raglan sleeves! Trust me, you can make this in an afternoon!

I hope your new year is off to a great start! I’d love to know what you think of my goals – – especially my RTW fast! Am I …..crazy? Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by.

DIY Date Night Dress

Published on by ellegeemakes21 Comments

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After I made a swing dress for the Day and Night Dress Challenge, I knew there would be another in my future. What is it that makes a swing dress so fun to wear?!? For me, it’s the way the skirt moves. It’s not quite ‘twirl-worthy’, but fun just the same.

This dress is another attempt to fill in a hole in my wardrobe. The ‘dress up’ category is woefully lacking. So, now I have another ‘date night’ outfit and I used up some of my stash too! This fabric is so yummy; a black ponte knit that’s embellished with a  silvery rose lace pattern. I knew it was destined to be used in a garment that had simple lines so that the interesting fabric could take center stage.

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I do like to combine laces and patterns and textures from time to time just for the fun of it, so I enjoyed mixing and matching laces here. I used a very airy lace from my stash for the yoke and sleeves, then a silver embroaidered lace for one of the contrasting yoke bands. I also added a yoke band of solid velvet to add some contrast to all of the patterns and textures in the lace.

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This dress is a mash-up of a couple of different patterns, Vogue 8817 for the yoke and contrasting yoke bands, and Vogue 8952 (view B) for the swingy bodice. The reason I used two patterns is that I know that the bodice of Vogue 8817 has too much volume for my frame, so I used the bodice of 8952 to draft my a-line bodice.

I did a bit of the high-low thing on the hem to give it a bit more swing. I also lined the bodice with stretch satin so that it won’t cling to my legs. For even more contrast, I made very narrow velvet cuffs for the sleeves.

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I love the fun, flirty shape of this dress. It isn’t too serious, if you know what I mean. Lots of party dresses are a bit too fussy for me, but this one is simple enough to let me be free to party!

I’ll say one thing though. That yellow cat better not think he can lay on it. Those claws would absolutely destroy it.

img_2214Okay, I might be finished with swing dresses for a bit now :). My only concern with this dress is that I might have overdone it here a bit with the lace mash-up. I’ll probably wear it all the time anyway!

I’ve been eyeing my closet, and evaluating. I realize now that some of my makes from a couple of years ago aren’t getting worn enough to justify the space they take in my closet. Some of the fabrics are lovely though, so I might give refashioning a try, although I’ve very little experience doing this. Have you refashioned older makes to keep that fabric in your life? How have you gone about that?

Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by!