Tag: bias top

I’m falling for plaid…

Published on by ellegeemakes7 Comments

IMG_6058Name Name five things that are cozier than flannel….. Can’t do it? Me neither. That’s why I’m glad this blue and green cotton flannel found its way into my shopping cart.

‘Cozy’ is the theme of my fall sewing efforts, and this shirt definitely delivers. Cotton flannel is such a dream to wear! My shirt’s first outing was a hilly walk this afternoon. Not only did the fabric score a big ten in the ‘cozy’ department, it breathes too!  So, if like me, you’ve never owned a flannel shirt, let me tell you. It’s high time you did.

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I loved this plaid on sight. For one thing, it’s such a great basic that just screams ‘fall’. It reminds me of everything good that these crisp cold days offer: leaf stalking (you’ll notice I didn’t say leaf raking), wine tasting, and using the fireplace for the first time. The added bonus? Plaid is a big fashion ‘yes’ this fall, so it’s available in every color combination imaginable. If you look great in chartreuse, there’s a plaid out there just for you.

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For my shirt, I used Simplicity 2447, a button-down with princess seams, a front band, a back yoke and various front detail combinations.

I chose this pattern because it had so many variations and opportunities for contrast. I knew I wanted to cut a few pieces on the bias to make the structure of the shirt more obvious and, with this pattern, the options were endless.

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The hardest part of this project, (yes, you guessed it) was matching the plaid. I bought LOTS of extra fabric (on sale at Fabric Depot, so nice!) so that my match-ups could be strategic, without worrying if I’d have enough fabric. Cotton flannel is not a slippery fabric, so it was difficult to get the double layer of fabric perfectly smooth AND have the plaids on both sides match as well. I pinned the selvedges together, which helped a bit. But finally, instead of cutting out all the pattern pieces on the double layers of fabric, I opted to cut a few pieces twice on single layers. That way, I could position the collar, pockets, cuffs etc. without worrying. I just didn’t trust the wonky way the fabric seemed to move and stretch even though I could swear, I wasn’t touching it (Haunted!).   Cutting out a pattern is usual a brainless activity that I can do while watching ‘Project Runway’, yet never missing a beat. Let me tell you…not this time! TV OFF!

It was fun to figure out how to cut out the pockets.

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I finally decided to cut them on the diagonal for contrast and the plaid is centered on the princess seams.  I put a button on the pocket to draw your eye there. The back yolk is cut on the diagonal as well for contrast with the plaid pattern centered over the back pleat.

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This is my first version of Simplicity 2447 and I think I’ll make this pattern again. It fit my shape without modifications (princess seams shape the bodice), which is a rarity for me. The instructions were easy to follow.  The pattern includes lots of options (including three (3!!) sleeve options), so it’s easy to make the style your own.. This time, I tried the rolled up sleeves with the button tabs but I’ll try the long-sleeved version with cuffs soon. The hem has a nice curve, which I left long to make the shirt even cozier.

I love sewing with cotton flannel and it’s so great to wear – – I can’t figure out why I’m not living in flannel. Hmmm, is this the beginning of a new fabric obsession? I would love to hear about your adventures with my new favorite fabric!

Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by…May your week be colorful and cozy!

McCalls 7187: A plaid transition dress for Fall

Published on by ellegeemakes16 Comments

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Yes, this dress is plaid and plaid does scream back-to-school and winter skirts. But don’t let my dress fool you. I have not given up on Summer!! After all, it’s only August. Sure, in a few weeks, the kids will be back in school, the warm air will have a crisp edge and we’ll have to start heating our houses again. But summer hasn’t thrown in the towel yet.

Still, my sewing projects are starting to shift. I’m reaching into my stash for heavier fabrics (reluctantly) with darker colors. I’m easing into this, though. After all, why let go of summer before we have to?

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That’s why I decided to sew a transition dress. I won’t give up the hope that there are still warm days ahead, so the fabric is a light-weight cotton. But to make the dress fall-worthy, the colors of the plaid are dark; black, red, green and gold. And nothing shouts ‘fall’ quite as loudly as plaid. This one’s especially bold – a stand-up-and-get-noticed plaid.

The pattern I used is McCalls 7187, a new one that was included in the McCalls’ fall release.

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It’s a fit and flare style with some interesting options. You can cut the dress with a relatively simple, straight skirt, or you can add pleats or gathers to the side panels. The pattern envelope showed the dress in a plaid, a perfect option for my bold fabric.  I chose the straighter style, only because I didn’t have quite enough fabric for the gathered, fuller option and I wasn’t sure how the plaid would look on the gathered skirt.

The pattern went together like a dream. I always cut one size larger when I’m making a McCall’s pattern, since, on me, they seem to run small (at least that’s what I tell myself). This was the case with this pattern too. The fabric was so easy to work with and fabulous to sew! It’s a woven cotton that I purchased at Mill End Fabrics. It drapes nicely, which I’m guessing is a must for this dress.

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I cut the front inset on the bias as indicated, a fun option that makes the plaid pop. The inset looks tricky, since it has curved seams, which I expected to be absolute torture to get right. But the inset went in perfectly the first time. How about that?!  A shout-out to the pattern designer! Thank-you!

Other than the inset, the dress is was pretty straightforward. The pattern instructions made everything quite clear. All in all,  Actual Sewing Time on this plaid frock was about three hours (three episodes of Game of Thrones, LOL).

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My only regret is that the dress isn’t lined, so my fabric tends to cling a bit to my legs from time to time. (Also, it was a bit windy when I shot the photos for this post which made the skirt go wonky.) I suppose you could line this dress though? But maybe the skirt would make that tricky? Not sure about that….

Are you sewing transition clothes? Or are you still focussed on summer?

Happy Sewing! And thanks for stopping by.

Spring Means Layers!

Published on by ellegeemakes1 Comment

These days, the weather is so unpredictable! Some days, the sun will shine so bright you’ll reach for your sunglasses, only to rip them off a moment later because they sky is dark and it’s decided to rain.  In the morning, the temperature can be as low as forty; in the afternoon, close to seventy. Such changes make it impossible to decide what to wear in the morning. That’s why spring means layers!  I love a good layering piece.

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My new favorite is McCall’s 6991, a loose fitting bias top with a mock wrap. It’s a casual, roomy option that allows you to wear a tee or a tank underneath, making it a transition piece that will work as well for Spring as for Summer.

I chose view B and used a remnant of lightweight rayon that looks like denim (my favorite color for Spring) that I found at Fabric Depot. The pattern is easy with a self-lined yoke, a narrow machine-stitched hem and a mock wrap front. Because the cut is loose, this top required very little fitting and was completed in an afternoon.

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Tips:

  • Choosing a lightweight woven was key to the drape of the mock wrap. Also, because of the way the mock wrap is constructed, the wrong side of the fabric shows, so you need to use a fabric that looks the same on both sides.
  •  As you read the instructions, you need to know which is the right and wrong side of your fabric or it will not make sense. I found this difficult because my fabric looked the same on both sides. So, to keep confusion to a minimum, I marked the fabric’s right side with tailor’s chalk. It brushed right off when I was done with the project.

This top is fun to sew and I LOVE the instant gratification that comes with an easy, fast project. But now that I’ve completed something unstructured, I’m craving a challenge. For my next project, maybe I’ll try a more complicated pattern, something tailored like a cotton or linen shirt or a jacket. That’s the way it works for me. I sew something easy as a warm up for a more involved project. What about you?