Remnant Buster– Vogue 9301 three ways

When it comes to fabric shopping I can be my own worst enemy. Last year, I was in a frugal mood. Unfortunately, this didn’t keep me from buying fabric – – it only kept me from purchasing enough. So, I found myself short by a half a yard on several projects. Now, in 2018, I seem to have over-corrected. Now, I have more than my fair share of one yard remnants, leftovers from large purchases of knits that were way too much for the dresses I made recently. What to do? Sew a few knit tops, of course.

Enter Vogue 9301, a semi-fitted knit top designed by Kayla Kennington.

V9301_aWho is Kayla, anyway? If you read Threads magazine, you’ve likely heard of her. She’s a designer who’s written articles for them and her creations are gorgeous – so artistic and amazing. She can take the leftovers from her various projects and turn them into something special. If you haven’t visited her website, do. It’s a treat! Vogue 9301 is such a perfect example of  her style, a semifitted top that you can mix and match fabrics and embellish as you wish.

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My first version was really simple, because I needed to see how the top would fit me. I’m small, so sometimes unstructured tunics can really be overwhelming on me. To test the pattern, I used a piece of fabric that’s been in my stash for so long, it has a faded streak in the back. I’m 5′ 4″ yet, this pattern is almost as long as a dress on me…a great length with leggings.

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Even without contrast fabric, this pattern has a great shape and style.  I loved the asymmetry of the hem line and the hem band – I couldn’t wait to play around with contrast fabric.  To make the top a bit shorter, I shortened both the front and back bodice at the waist line by 5/8″. This made the fit much better I think for my height.

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For this version, I used remnants from this dress, and had some fun playing around with stripe placement. The wide band at the hemline requires alot of fabric (I had very little) and it must be in one piece, so it was a struggle to get it from the leftover fabric I had. Luckily, I made it, but it would have been fun to have cut that band so that the stripes were at a diagonal to the bodice, but that’s what happens when you’re using remnants – options are limited!  I think this version is casual and fun – – the sort of top I throw on over jeans to hang out in.

Version Three: I just had to go all the way, and add in the flaps too!

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I used contrast fabric remnants for the sleeves and the optional flaps. The wide hem band is a second contrast fabric and the sleeve bands are cut perpendicular to the grain.

Vogue 9301 is a fun sew and pretty fast too, each version took me about two hours. It’s a great remnant stash buster, and a nice palate cleanser after my coat. I can imagine using this pattern again.

These tops will make Me-Made-May easier to pull off this year! Are you participating? I’m joining in and will post some of my days on Instagram. I do find the exercise of wearing me-mades every day to be revealing. It’s interesting to see which makes you reach for again and again, and which you ignore! I’ll be sharing my findings here.

Remnant busting is so satisfying – would love to hear what you do with yours. Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by!

McCall’s 7430: A Knit Dress for Spring

IMG_9618I made this knit dress for a trip we just took to Santa Fe, but there was snow on the ground when we arrived so this dress never made it out of the suitcase, LOL! Still, I love wearing knit dresses, so I know this dress will have its day.

The trickiest part of this dress was positioning the stripes across the bodice and the sleeves.

Let me tell you….It took alot of pins and patience to get the stripes in the right place as I inserted the sleeves, but in the end, the effort was worth it.

I’ve made this knit dress pattern before and it’s now one of my favorites. McCalls 7430 offers a few variations that makes it easy to modify to give each version a fresh look. You can use contrast fabric for the yokes and the sleeve crowns as I did, or you can cut the entire sleeve from the same fabric as the bodice, or even make it sleeveless. There are collar variations too – a raised collar or a simple neck-band (my choice).

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I love a pattern that gives you alot of options!

Challenges: There aren’t any side seams on this pattern.

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This makes fit a little harder to modify. Because I’d made this pattern before (here), I wasn’t concerned, as I’d already done a trial run. The good news is, the pattern is well drafted and for me,  the size dictated by my measurements was perfect.
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The success of this dress depends in large part on the knit, I think. The fabric must have some weight and body so that it will give the dress some shape. A thin lightweight knit wouldn’t work because it would be cling too much and would show every bump. I was lucky to find this medium weight knit at Fabric Depot. It has just the right amount of weight and crosswise stretch. It’s a rayon/cotton blend which will make it easy to wear as the temperatures rise.  Now, if the weather would just improve around here.

New Mexico stole my heart last week, and the brief sprinkling of snow only made the high desert seem more exotic. Here’s one of the sights we enjoyed as we hiked.IMG_9384

It was a great trip, but it’s good to be back at my sewing machine:).

Happy sewing and thanks for stopping by!

Vogue 8894 – Stripes, Blue and Linen

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When I first saw this fabric, it seemed made for me.  It has most everything I love; two shades of BLUE, stripes and… it’s linen! Can you blame me for snatching it up? I was ecstatic, yet, once I got it home, it languished in my stash. I couldn’t decide what to do with it. Fabric love can be so paralyzing! I overthink, worrying that the style won’t do it justice, or that it will never look as good as it does on the shelf.
But our recent heat wave pushed me to act. I did not have a thing to wear (honest!!). Everything in my closet felt heavy and hot. This made my lovely fabric’s future quite clear. It would become an easy-to-wear, cool summer dress, a frock that could handle even a 100 degree day.
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The pattern I used was one I’d had in my archives, a basic Vogue I bought during a sale, then never used. To be honest, there are many (!!)  similar patterns in my archives, ‘honest mistakes’ purchased during some crazy-good 5 for $7 sale. I’m a sucker for those sales. No matter what, I can’t buy just three patterns. I have to buy five, because, well, it’s a good deal! Needless to say, that mindset results in a pattern stash that is unwieldy and huge. Some of those lovelies will never be opened, or cut. What to do, what to do? Does one vow to use all of them so that not one pattern will be wasted? Or is it better to admit defeat and send some of them to pattern heaven?
I digress, though.
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Pattern: I chose Vogue 8894 from my archives, A v-neck dress with a close fitting bodice, a raised waist, hemline variations and sleeves, and a back zipper. It was easy to put together, and the instructions were clear. I made my usual adjustments for narrow shoulders, and the fit was spot on.
Fabric: Linen from Fabric Depot.
Design Modifications: The pattern is designed with 3/4 length sleeves. This just didn’t feel right for summer. So I cut them off, and added a 4″ sleeve band. To make a long story short (Ha!), I  cut four (4) four inch wide pieces that were the width of the shortened sleeve. I sewed them together (right sides together) then turned the band right side out. The finished bands were then stitched to the sleeves.
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Contrast: The dress seemed too plain, probably because the pattern doesn’t have a lot of complicated design elements. So I added contrasting twill tape at the neckline, the shoulder seam and the sleeve band seams.
Hem: I opted for the straight skirt. Instead of a high low hem, I chose a straight hem.
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Lessons learned: Adding contrast was an after thought. I wore the dress once, then decided it needed a bit more pizzazz. Since the fabric was so great, I decided to go the extra mile and add contrasting twill, even though the dress was done. This was torture, since some of the seams had to be opened so that the end of the twill tape could be hidden in the seam. Since I’d  overlocked some to keep them from fraying, this was no easy task. In the future, if I get a bee in my bonnet to add trim/twill tape, I will decide that before (!!) I finish the darn thing.

That being said, I like the dress much better now, so I will probably wear it more, making the extra effort worth it. And the pattern is probably a keeper, an easy to fit, wearable dress.  I’m glad I found it in my archives.
I’d be interested to know what your strategy is regarding patterns. If you haven’t used them after awhile, do you send them on their way, or do you hold on to your patterns forever? If so, how do you organize/store them? Have a great weekend, and thanks for stopping by!!